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Rowe MM6 Mech Motor Replacement
by Jukebox Repairman 05 Sep '24

05 Sep '24

I removed the motor to free up the linkage but now I'm having issues trying to line up the crank pin on the lift arm. Can someone explain the orientation of the long and short crank pins with the gripper arm at full rest position over the magazine? I must be overthinking it. I don't think it should be this hard. Is there a trick to it? Regards, Rick

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Seeburg SMC-1 help requested
by NotarySojac 02 Sep '24

02 Sep '24

SMC-1 saga: I'm trying to get a friend's Seeburg SMC-1 Disco working. She tells me it worked around seven years ago while she & hubby lived in Wisconsin. They bought it at one of the Chicago Coin-op Shows. Hubby was developing dementia shortly before moving to my neck of the woods in 2017. He apparently did NOT secure the mech for their 1000 mile move to Texas. When it arrived it would light up, displayed gobbldygook on the front panel but nothing more. Hubby passed away several years ago and the machine has sat silent ever since. When I first checked it out (after boning up reading the manual) I asked if they'd ever changed the batteries. "What batteries??" she replied. Oh my! I opened up the MCU box and a lot of "snow" drifted down! This thing was toast. I ordered an upgrade board from CDAdapter, installed it and then the fun began. Upon power up the display shnows "- - - - - - - -" and stops. Does not show Your Selection, Selection Playing or "FP" for free play. Just dashes. Mech was all the way over to the right side. Scan switch did nothing to move the mech in either Normal or Service modes. I could put it into Service Mode and operate all of the functions with the new keypad/board. At least the display was working. When I put it into Factory Test Mode the Selection Playing display always shows "00". The #7 function is supposed to spin the motor. Nothing. I tried to move the mech over to the left by hand-spinning the motor shaft. No movement. Then today a nice person on the Seeburg FB group tipped me off to the trip solenoid lever. It was in the down (play) position. I flipped it up (scan) position and was able to move it to the center. Powered up but still all dashes on the display. I switched to Service Mode and it picked up a record and played it.. but did not reject it after play. Powered the box down and manually got the record back into the rack. Still won't scan. Was able to get the motor to run using the #4 Factory Test function and #7 to turn it off. Next I swapped out the PCC board with one I got from Victory Glass.. I'm trying anything at this point. Not much different except Factory Test is acting like this: #1 Turns on motor #2 Turns on motor #4 Turns on motor @7 Turns on motor ..display consistently shows "00" in Selection Playing window. Also, when put back in Normal Mode the motor starts spinning... but not scanning. I can get the motor to stop by flipping the Reject Switch. Powered down and tried to move the mech manually by hand-turning the motor shaft. Nope! Won't move with trip solenoid lever up or down. So to recap: Both MCU and PCC boards replaced. Box does not complete power up showing correct info on display, just eight dashes. Cannot get mech to move left or right by hand-spinning the motor shaft. I've reached the edge of my expertice and could sure use some sage advice. Thanks for reading and perhaps offering ideas. Bob - Georgetown Tx.

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AMI R-145 amplifier volume control modification
by Dave 29 Aug '24

29 Aug '24

Joey, Mine are a C-40 and a D-80, so I have a slightly different modification, but Harold Hagen suggested the following for the G-J in one of his "Dr. Know It All" columns: "Take the positive lead loose from the volume control. Connect a 10K or 15K resistor from this lead to the wire that's still connected to the control. Now take a 22 MFD capacitor (25 volts) and connect the plus the wire you took loose, and the negative to the volume control terminal that previously had the wire. This isolates the volume control from the DC, and sometimes helps significantly." Hope this helps. - Dave Schwallie ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2024 21:41:12 -0400 (EDT) From: joeymcd <joeymcd(a)mymts.net> Subject: [Jukebox-list] AMI R-145 amplifier volume control modification To: jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com Message-ID: <1371623906.4407910.1724722872955.JavaMail.zimbra(a)mymts.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Does anyone have the schematic modification for the scratchy volume control issue on a AMi R-145 amplifier? Specifically an AMi F and G model. I used to have a copy but can't find it. Thanks. Joey McDonald

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AMI R-145 amplifier volume control modification
by joeymcd 27 Aug '24

27 Aug '24

Does anyone have the schematic modification for the scratchy volume control issue on a AMi R-145 amplifier? Specifically an AMi F and G model. I used to have a copy but can't find it. Thanks. Joey McDonald

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Re: Seeburg R Mech Lighting
by Jukebox Repairman 26 Aug '24

26 Aug '24

Jukebox Repairman 3:22 PM (0 minutes ago) to jrr so i added a dab of solder to the bulb body, inserted into the socket and it lit right up. Thanks for all input everyone. im smiling again On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 2:46 PM John Robertson <jrr(a)flippers.com> wrote: > On 2024-08-26 10:50 a.m., Jukebox Repairman wrote: > > Thanks John, I probably should have mentioned using my tester i have 6v on > center pin of socket when grounding to the outside of the socket > > OK, now with the bulb in the socket, use alligator jumper wires to the pin > that sticks out the rear and the shell mount and your meter. If Zero, then > the socket is corroded and needs replacing. If 6V and the light is out, > look at the lamp pin contact surface - I imagine it is corroded. A pencil > eraser make help here, or replace the socket... > > John :-#)# > > > > On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 1:41 PM John Robertson via Jukebox-list < > jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: > >> On 2024-08-26 10:09 a.m., Jukebox Repairman via Jukebox-list wrote: >> > I Have an R I'm working on and typical only one side of the 100 end >> > cap lighting works. >> > The strange thing is I have 6V at the center pin of the socket. I've >> tried >> > 3 different bulbs thinking maybe the bulb wasn't making good >> connectivity >> > but no go. >> > >> > It seems like every R that I have restored has had this issue. Any >> thoughts >> > on a fix? >> > >> > It's the only thing holding me up on completion of the job >> > >> > Regards, >> > Rick >> > _____ >> >> If you have 6V on the center terminal of the lamp socket, perhaps the >> lamp socket shell is too loose to make a ground connection. Check using >> the shell and the centre terminal, then if Zero V check the center >> terminal and the shell's mounting arm... >> >> John :-#)# >> >> >> -- >> John's Jukes Ltd. >> 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 >> Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) >> flippers.com >> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out" >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com >> To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com >> %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s >> Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/ >> > > -- > John's Jukes Ltd. > 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 > Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) > flippers.com > "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out" > >

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Seeburg R Mech Lighting
by Jukebox Repairman 26 Aug '24

26 Aug '24

I Have an R I'm working on and typical only one side of the 100 end cap lighting works. The strange thing is I have 6V at the center pin of the socket. I've tried 3 different bulbs thinking maybe the bulb wasn't making good connectivity but no go. It seems like every R that I have restored has had this issue. Any thoughts on a fix? It's the only thing holding me up on completion of the job Regards, Rick

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Seeburg 222 Write in Issue
by Jukebox Repairman 19 Aug '24

19 Aug '24

I'm troubleshooting this customer's 222. It will not trip to play after a selection is made. The TSR was recapped she thinks approx 5 years ago and the credit unit has been bypassed with a Vern Schmitt (Victory) Free Play adapter. 6X4 tests good as do OA2's which have a purple glow and pulse accordingly during scan. It will trip if I remove the RCA from the pulse amp and it will also play all selections loading the tormat VIA D Cell Battery. Currently stumped. Regards, Rick It

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AMI JKK 200
by Tony Miklos 18 Aug '24

18 Aug '24

Why does the model J 200 have 2 K's after the J? Model JKK 200. Is there a model that just says J? While I'm at it, does anyone know the size of the o-ring for the scan control? I know who has them for sale but I hate to pay 7.50 for a 1 dollar part. Although if I count my time, the $7.50 might be the bargain? Tony

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Rock-Ola CD amp 56180-1A
by Tony Miklos 16 Aug '24

16 Aug '24

Rock-Ola 56180-1A amp from an Antique Apparatus/Rock-Ola OMT type. This amp had a crackle/rumble on 1 channel with the volume down all the way. Traced it to a tantalum cap with leakage. After replacing it, I could then hear that the other channel had the same problem so I replaced it (I used electrolytic caps, which I didn't think will be a problem) I don't stock any tantalum caps. (yet) Then at the end of a song before it was muted, I heard a very slight crackle, much less but I heard it. While it was playing I pulled the CD inputs and when turning up the volume the noise was louder with the volume up. The amp is loaded with 1uF tantalum caps and I'm wondering if there was a bad batch and I should replace them all. Now I did a search and find that John Robertson here had changed the same two as me (C12,C13) and two more (C6,C7). John, if you recall, are C6 and C7 before the volume control? My AMR manual schematic is really poor and I can hardly read the part values, does anyone have a factory one and is it much better? Tony

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How to wire remote cancel button on DS-100
by bpoldstyle＠yahoo.com 15 Aug '24

15 Aug '24

I recently added a remote cancel button to my Seeburg 222 by wiring it to terminals 2 and 3 on the record cancel terminal strip on the tormat selector unit. Now my cousin has asked me to add the same type of remote cancel switch to his DS-100. Looking online I noticed that his record cancel terminal strip has four terminals (the 222 has only three terminals). I believe the extra terminal supplies DC to a motorized remote volume control if that is added on. All we want to do is add a remote cancel button. Which two terminals should we use for the cancel button hook-up? Thanks in advance, Bruce

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