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Wurlitzer OMT early CD
by Tony Miklos 04 Mar '26

04 Mar '26

I don't know a lot about Wurlitzers of this era. I'll start this off with, on the bench, applying 14vdc on the bench power supply to pins 3 ground and the plus to pin 4 of X5, in about 1/2 second, the leds K and Z light up and stay on. Then in another 1/2 second relay 2 energizes and stays on. I don't know if that is a normal power up routine? The SCC is a 2500 CD. Now the really weird part. Inside the jukebox, with no cables plugged into the board, from pins 3 and 4 of the plug for X5, it measures about 14 volts DC, no AC, this is normal. But, when that plug is in the SCC on power up, the 14 volts jumps up to 30 volts! Thankfully the 7805 has over-voltage protection, in addition to a zener on the board so the +5vdc goes to zero. I have tried this with all of the plugs in the SCC and with only plug X5 in. Either way the 14vdc jumps up to 30vdc and the +5vdc goes to zero. On the SCC, it has a history of R3 running hot and turning the board very dark. Also someone cut into the plasic cover in what looks like an attempt to cool the area at and above the 7805 and R3. Also, I don't know if it's common, the interface board top third is very dark from heat. This machine has been on 24-7 for most of its life. Any help greatly appreciated. -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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Part needed. 1015 Wurly
by Jukebox Repairman 01 Mar '26

01 Mar '26

I have a customer looking for a tone arm assembly. He needs the Tonearm and the mount base. Let me know if you can help. Regards Rick

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Help picking new speaker
by Steve Swaine 26 Feb '26

26 Feb '26

Hi Forum, Well I’m working on my “new” Seeburg 200C and it looks like I need a new speaker as the original appears to be blown - getting lots of base distortion that I don’t hear at all when connected to a remote speaker. I’m not a speaker guy, so hoping to get some help. I’m fine buying a new speaker rather than gamble on a vintage one, but I want to be sure I’m not going to damage anything in my system and get something that will sound good. The 200C uses the HFA1-L6 amplifier rated at 20 watts. The load impedance is “8 or 16 ohms” and the output voltage is “16 volts at 16 ohm output socket”. The maximum output power is 27.5 watts at 400 CPS with 2.4 volts input. The manual stresses that the total power supplied to all the speakers must be between 5 watts and 20 watts. Again, not a speaker guy - I thought it was ok to use a higher wattage speaker than your amp wattage, but many on-line sources say that the speaker wattage really should not be more than the amp output - especially for tube amps. The speaker specs say: - Dual, coaxial, permanent magnet type - Low frequency unit - 12” direct radiator - High frequency unit - Pressure driver with multi-cellular horn - Impedance (complete system) - 16 ohms I see a lot of guitar speakers on line that are 16ohm and are 20-25 watts, but they don’t have a lot of range - not sure I need that much, but 5KHz (which seems typical) seems too low. I’d really appreciate some advice! Thanks!

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Connecting multiple Seeburg wall boxes
by M De Simone 24 Feb '26

24 Feb '26

Why can only 6 wallboxes be connected to each auxiliary power supply? I have a situation in a diner where they have wired 5 wallboxes together and another 10 together. They want to get it up and running but don’t want their walls torn up to figure out the wiring. Just curious as it’s probably done in case of 6 wallboxes being operated at the same time. This scenario is very unlikely in this case, so before moving forward with tearing up walls and fishing wire I thought I’d ask the group. Thanks, Mauro Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Help picking new speaker
by David Breneman 24 Feb '26

24 Feb '26

On Tuesday, February 24, 2026 at 08:15:40 AM PST, Steve Swaine <steveswaine100(a)gmail.com> wrote: > I have not tried that, but that’s a good thought. I have to find > something that has an external speaker connection. Any issues > connecting a 16ohm speaker to an 8 ohm system for a short test? Should not be a problem for testing. > I did try hooking up a 70 volt speaker I have to that output and it > sounded great, but appreciate that’s not a complete verification >that the speaker is bad. It sounds from your description that you connected the 70 volt speaker to the output for the cabinet speaker. The line going to the cabinet speaker is a regular 8 ohm connection, All (with usual disclaimers) 70 volt speakers are 8 ohms between the transformer and the speaker itself. Connecting that to the transformer of a 70 volt speaker will result in very low volume to that speaker. I'm guessing your speaker may have a loose internal connection to the voice coil, of that the cone is rubbing on something, but the best way to confirm that is to connect it to another amp and power it at the level at which is distorts and see what happens. > Any suggestions on speaker reconning sources? I will check > around locally (St Charles, St Louis Missouri), but suspect I’ll have to > send it somewhere. I'm sorry, I don't.

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Johnny Velchoff
by Tony Miklos 22 Feb '26

22 Feb '26

Does anyone have contact information for Johnny Velchoff? -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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Seeburg 222
by Jukebox Repairman 22 Feb '26

22 Feb '26

Years ago Ron Rich helped me with a 220 that was making a popping noise in the audio during scan. I'm having the same issue with a 222 and checked my notes but couldnt find what the resolve was. Anybody know what causes this? Its not the mute contacts. for some reason im thinking he said it was a cap but again i dont recall. Regards, Rick

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How to replace seeburg motor mounts
by Steve Swaine 19 Feb '26

19 Feb '26

Hi Forum, Looking for help in how to do this. There are many videos on replacing the coupling but not so much for the mounts. The old mount rings look to be pressure fit on the motor and I’m not sure the best way to get them off without damaging the motor (or myself). I’m also worried about how to get the new ones on safely. The idea of whomping my motor with a big hammer is scary. I’ve seen that some replacement motor mounts are sold as the rubber part only with the instructions to glue the new rubber to the original metal rings. But my replacements already have the rings and if there is a safe way to remove the original rings then I’d rather do that then try and get the new rings off the new rubber without damage and the trust my glue job to put them on the old rings. Thanks!

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Re: Stereo cart wired mono - what new,, impedance resistance?
by js＠cimmeri.com 18 Feb '26

18 Feb '26

> ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2026 16:04:13 +0000 (UTC) > From: David Breneman<david_breneman(a)yahoo.com> > Subject: [Jukebox-list] Re: Stereo cart wired mono - what new, > impedance resistance? > To: js--- via Jukebox-list<jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> > Message-ID:<1792891075.1306630.1771344253419(a)mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > > On Tuesday, February 17, 2026 at 07:53:39 AM PST, js--- via Jukebox-list<jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: > >> Surely you know what a brighter or bright top end is? > Yes, but the opposite of bright is usually dull, which was my guess. Never heard "dark." > That's why I wanted to make sure I understood what you meant. No offense intended. No offense taken. I just meant lowered high frequency content as opposite of "bright" or excessive high frequency content. So, in other words, a reduced amplitude of high frequencies, typically starting somewhere in the upper treble. Not a hard low-pass cutoff, but more like a gentle roll-off or loss of “air,” sparkle, and edge.

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Wurlitzer Mute Relay - German models, Niagra Baltic etc
by Iain Jamieson 18 Feb '26

18 Feb '26

Hi Everyone, I'm trying to find a mute relay for a German Wurlitzer. In this case a Baltic 3. Part number is 18010022. Flippers are out of stock - Anyone got one they would like to part with? Thanks Iain

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