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Rock-Ola bubbler light diffuser
by Tony Miklos 09 Sep '25

09 Sep '25

Does anyone here have this box that they can measure what the plastic above the speaker grill? It's about 3"x 10". I was being brain dead when I was there and forgot to measure it. (it is now dark brown and no light reaches the speaker area) I did a quick check at Victory glass and they don't sell one (probably because it's so simple to make). If I don't get the size I can bring some *special* light diffuser material that I got for free and can cut with scissors!!! (It's one of the plastic layers of a trashed LED TV screen.) ;) Handy stuff to have around, but I would rather use some plexiglass. -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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R-91 Optical Switch
by Paul Howlett 08 Sep '25

08 Sep '25

I can't find a source for a replacement optical switch 0407226-01. Has anuone tried to rebuild one? -- Paul Howlett Pinball Paul's 703-361-0420

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Seeburg SRT1 Jukebox-list] wallbox converter
by Nigel Pugh 08 Sep '25

08 Sep '25

Thank you to Mauro for digging out the SRT1 wallbox converter and taking the photos. I now know that there is such a thing, and need to work out if these work with an STD3 Sunstar. Send me the answer somehow please Ron !! If I can find it its compatible I will buy one and buy the manuals to install it. But what’s puzzling the hell out of me is there is absolutely nowhere inside the Sunstar that it would fit. It’s the standard module size of the SHP3 amp. This is making me think it is not compatible so would like someone who knows, to tell me please. There is no spare rack space. Many thanks, Nigel, UK

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Amp noise WAS driving me crazy
by Tony Miklos 07 Sep '25

07 Sep '25

Just wanted to share this. I have an AMI JAL in the shop. One of the many problems was an intermittent static like noise in the speakers. I thought it had the sound of a 60 cycle arc, if you can imagine that. It didn't do it on the bench, but it was intermittent. It was very loud and would go up and down with the volume control. I pulled the inputs and it still did it. Started pulling tubes in the pre amp, then in the power amp. It didn't completely go away until I pulled all 4 output tubes. Somewhere along the line I had even unplugged the pre amp from the power amp and only had the output tubes in it. (they tested good) It still had the noise but very, very quiet. I had to have my ear close to the speaker to hear it. To make a long story a little shorter, it was a bad turntable motor cam switch arcing and causing interference. When I pulled it out, it had about 80 ohms resistance. (Even with the bad switch in, it still played records at normal speed.) It now makes me wonder if I had had an arc fault interrupter circuit breaker in my electric panel, if it would have tripped. -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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AMI Power Supply Capacitor
by M De Simone 07 Sep '25

07 Sep '25

I am rebuilding an AMI model I power supply and am replacing the 1000uF 50v capacitor. It has been suggested by Jay to increase this value to 2400uF. I have a new but older stock can capacitor that is 1500uF 50v on hand that will fit perfectly into the existing clamp but it measures 2800uF with my meter and esr leakage is almost zero. Why is the value almost twice what it should be and should I use it? It would save me a trip or ordering one. I’m more curious than anything else of why the value is so much higher. Thanks, Mauro Sent from my iPhone

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1961 Wurlitzer 2510
by Terry Teschner 05 Sep '25

05 Sep '25

Hi everyone! I just bought a 2510 and I am having an issue. The 45 loads properly, and the record plays fine at the beginning, but starts to sound garbled the longer this plays. Would this be needing a new needle, or a tone arm adjustment? Just because I am curious, what tool are you using to measure needle pressure? The manual says to use a Graybar 70-D, but I can't find one of those anyware. Are you using digital VTF scales, and if so how do you use that when the record is vertical? These are probably newbie questions, and that's because I am new to this. Thanks for your help, Terry -- Terry Teschner, RCDD/OSP/WD Infrastructure Design Engineer University of Minnesota Office of Information Technology Networking and Telecommunication Services 2218 University Ave SE Minneapolis, MN 55414 Phone: (612) 626-8229 Cell: (612) 369-5430 teschner(a)umn.edu

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Plays Slow When Cold - Seeburg & Bodine Motors - Ron Rich
by John Robertson 03 Sep '25

03 Sep '25

I was going through my files and found the following post from Ron on Jukebox-List many years ago - and I figured it was time to post it again for the younguns... ----------------------original posting---------------------- From: Ron Rich <ronnnrich(a)yahoo.com> To: jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com Subject: [Jukebox-list] Slow when cold Bodine motors The story from my good, but not too long memory goes like this-- Sometime in the mid 1960's Seeburg began getting complaints about the mech not wanting to play at 45rpm when cold. At first (I understand), they "ignored" the situation. At some point, it became apparent that this was beginning to affect sales. They then came out with an "un-official fix"--which was an electrical addition plus the suggestion that the motor be removed, cleaned and re-oiled with "Seeburg oil". The electrical portion was "un-official" as they knew it would not be able to be UL approved. (It was similar to Wes' earlier suggestion). As more and more complaints came in, they decided sometime around 1966, to do a "study of the problem". They requested that their distribs. send in any motor that was having problems. They also requested a few sample Bodine motors from older models--all the way back to the model B. They further "borrowed" a few mechs from distribs that were having this problem. Short ending--It was found that ALL Bodine motors, including early ones ran slower when "ice cold", this is not noticeable in the 45rpm units, as the slow-down is less then one rpm@ 45rpm, however in the units geared at 33, the torque produced by the motor, when "auto-speeded" to 45rpm is much less. Bodine, which had assured Seeburg that the motors would be OK if geared and autospeeded to 45, supposedly also did a "study". Their answer was a redesign of the motor, which was then marked with a stamp "Al" after the KCI 42 model number ( I was told, once again, "un-officially", that Bodine admitted that about one percent of their motors had a "production defect"). Seeburg then re-suggested that on any mech having this problem, ALL grease, especially "Lubriplate" and oil be removed. All "thrust bearing" adjustments were to be checked, and re adjusted to specs, if needed. A light coat of graphite grease (NOT "Lubriplate") was to be applied to the gears, and a re-oiling with only "Seeburg Oil". Plus, the motor was to be dis-assembled, cleaned and re-oiled with Seeburg Oil. They also added a 5k10w ww resistor to the circuit, when in the "play" mode ( I think this is shown on the LS-1 schematic on up--I know it's shown on the LS-3 schematic-up). The above, although I do live in "Kahl-lee-forn-nee-ya", ain't no "torro feces"--just how I remember it--Ron Rich Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spain protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Jukebox-list mailing list Jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list ------------------30--------------------- John :-#)# -- John's Jukes Ltd. 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out"

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Re: Rock Ola stepper return spring tensioning
by Tony Miklos 03 Sep '25

03 Sep '25

Yes I got it that you got it working, I was just trying to add a little more info, when working with nylon anyway. Some plastics shrink with heat and age, which could be why yours cracked (age). Anyway, good job on the fix! Also, some types of plastic can swell if oiled. Tony On 8/29/2025 8:34 AM, Nigel Pugh wrote: > This had split where it was fitted onto a metal shaft, and the split had > caused it to be wider/snugger than it should have, and some burring > around the split. I'm doubting whether it's actually nylon, it just > looks like some cheapo 1970s plastic. > As I've used this since the early 1990s pretty much daily, I can only > assume that the split has happened recently as the problems have only > occurred this year, and only noticeable when the solenoid has to punch > up a high number. Once it is stuck, yours stuffed for making more > wallbox selections until you manually reset it. > But now it's working fantastic again, and I've bought a parts stepper > too, just in case, as this certainly doesn't look like a part you could > easily make without a fair amount of hassle. > Nigel > > >> On 29 Aug 2025 at 12:47, Tony Miklos via Jukebox-list <jukebox- >> list(a)lists.netlojix.com <mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com>> wrote: >> >> The nylon does not get "waxy" when it swells, not that I have ever seen >> anyway. I just expands a little bit. Probably not enough to notice, but >> enough for snug fittings to bind. >> >> On 8/28/2025 9:15 AM, Nigel Pugh wrote: >> > Thanks Tony. The nylon luckily did not feel particularly waxy and seemed >> > to file well when spinning in the drill. I will check out the >> > lubrication. I've got a couple of other stepper manuals for Rowe and >> > Seeburg ones, somewhere in those it may say. >> > I've had it on all day and am confident it's not failed any selection. >> > Hopefully I can put this one to bed now. >> > Regards >> > Nigel >> > >> > >> >> On 28 Aug 2025 at 13:41, Tony Miklos via Jukebox-list <jukebox- >> >> list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>> wrote: >> >> >> >> Sounds great. Best to check the manual about lubrication. For example, >> >> on EM pinball machines with "steppers", the normal routine was to clean >> >> and re-grease the contacts/wipers. Although I use oil instead of grease. >> >> That's how I was taught, and it seems to work quite well. >> >> >> >> If you ever run into some nylon plastic that is swollen (it actually >> >> absorbs water!) when sand paper doesn't cut it, and a regular file is of >> >> little use, use this file. It works great on slippery nylon. >> >> https://www.baersupply.com/v2/wbsc/product/catalog/7367718 <https://www.baersupply.com/v2/wbsc/product/catalog/7367718> <https://www.baersupply.com/v2/wbsc/product/catalog/7367718> <https://www.baersupply.com/v2/wbsc/product/catalog/7367718>> >> >> I forgot where I bought mine, probably on Amazon. >> >> >> >> Tony >> >> >> >> On 8/28/2025 4:21 AM, Nigel Pugh wrote: >> >> > Right, always good to sleep on an issue and see if your brain throws up >> >> > another solution. >> >> > I dismantled the nylon stepper gear as it was pretty stiff in its >> >> > bushing. And there was the problem, the nylon shaft had a split and >> >> > consequently had expanded and was causing the stiffness. Spun it in the >> >> > drill with some fine sandpaper taking off the burr around the split and >> >> > it's running like a dream now. >> >> > Nigel >> >> > >> >> > >> >> >> On 28 Aug 2025 at 05:46, Nigel Pugh via Jukebox-list <jukebox- >> >> >> list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> <mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>>> wrote: >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> I'm not aware that lubricant should be used or not, I will look onto that. >> >> >> >> >> >> However, in this instance it won't be the cause of the problem as I can remove the paxolin disks completey to eliminate them and the problem still occurs. >> >> >> >> >> >> 1. Spring wound too tight - resets nicely but the solenoid can't advance it to the high numbers due to spring pressure. >> >> >> >> >> >> 2. Spring wound too loose - advances nicely but fails to always reset due to lack of spring pressure. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> So the question is how do I set the spring pressure correctly. There must be a "number of turns" as to how tight you wind it up. >> >> >> >> >> >> Nigel >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> >> >> > On 27 Aug 2025 at 22:23, Tony Miklos via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>>> wrote: >> >> >> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> > On 8/27/2025 5:09 PM, Nigel Pugh via Jukebox-list wrote: >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> Recently having issues with my Rock Ola 470 stepper. I think the stepper is a 1768 or 1769. >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> The problem is when a high number is selected, upon reset, the number wiper sometimes remains there and doesn't reset back to it's starting position. >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> I've had this set up working fine for over 30 years. >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> Anyhow, I dismantle that part of the stepper and the spring that provides the return tension unwound itself, so I had to guess how many times to re wind it to tension it back up. >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> It's driving me nuts. Too much tension and the pecking solenoid doesn't have strength to push the gear. Too little tension and it doesn't return every time. There are no other issues, nothing tight or seized. >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> So my question is, is there a number of winds specified that you have to wind it up to? Instead of me guessing, which could take forever, is there a spec or instruction how to re tension it ? >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> Regards >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> Nigel, uk >> >> >> > >> >> >> > I don't know about that unit, but some similar units in other equipment >> >> >> > use lubricant on the wiper contacts. Should yours have it, and is it lubed? >> >> >> > >> >> >> > -- >> >> >> > Tony Miklos >> >> >> > Tony's Jukebox Repair >> >> >> > >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ >> >> >> > Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>> >> >> >> > To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>> >> >> >> > %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s >> >> >> > Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/ <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>>> >> >> >> > >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> >> Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>> >> >> >> To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>> >> >> >> %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s >> >> >> Searchable Archives:http://jukebox.markmail.org/ <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Tony Miklos >> >> Tony's Jukebox Repair >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> >> >> To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> >> >> %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s >> >> Searchable Archives:http://jukebox.markmail.org/ <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> >> >> >> >> -- >> Tony Miklos >> Tony's Jukebox Repair >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> >> To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> >> %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s >> Searchable Archives:http://jukebox.markmail.org/ <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> >> -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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Rockola Nostalgia 1000 power switch replacement
by bpoldstyle＠yahoo.com 29 Aug '25

29 Aug '25

Hi, I'll be visiting a friend who has an issue with his Rockola Nostalgia cd jukebox. He claims that the power switch is a little "flaky". Sometimes he has to rock it back and forth numerous times to get it to turn on the jukebox. From what I've seen online it appears that the switch is built into the power supply....is that correct? Would I be able to bypass that switch and wire in a simple single-pole toggle switch for him? (online it looks like there are more than just two wires connected to the switch). Thank you, Bruce

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Seeburg cartridge holder
by Nigel Pugh 26 Aug '25

26 Aug '25

Hi all, For later stereo Seeburg cartridge with the yellow / green / purple shoe type styli, I am sure a few years back someone was selling the replacement holder assembly – the clip part where the cartridge pins sit in the tonearm, and the flat locator clips in the tonearm. I need to replace the one I have. I’m pretty certain it was Ron Rich that mentioned the new replacement part a good few years back. The older ones can get loose and troublesome even with the pin sleeves tight. Does anyone know it ? Thanks Nigel, UK

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