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AMI I Selection Issues
by M De Simone 12 Sep '25

12 Sep '25

So I sorted out the previous 2 problems but now pulse is sent to the pulse receiver but the pin pusher or magazine doesn’t turn but the turntable starts. Following the schemagrams it seems like it could be the scan switches but they are hidden. How does one check and adjust them? I had the assembly out when the mech was on the bench and cleaned and adjusted them but I’m thinking something may have gone wrong. If any of the knowledgeable members here have any other thoughts, please share. Thank you, Mauro Sent from my iPhone

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AMI model I120 Selectors Dead
by M De Simone 12 Sep '25

12 Sep '25

I’ve just put this jukebox back together, it hasn’t run since the 1980’s. All components have been rebuilt and/or checked out to make sure all switches were making and breaking. I turned it on for the first time and credit lights do not come on but in credit position buttons latch but pulse generator motor does not start. Where does the voltage come from for this motor as I measure 0 vac or dc for that matter. I believe it is an ac motor. I have the manuals but it just explains the sequence from “selection is made”. Anyway I’d like to see if I can get some voltage to this motor. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks, Mauro Sent from my iPhone

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AMI R145 Amplifier transformer wiring color codes
by Dean Carriveau 11 Sep '25

11 Sep '25

HI all, Does anyone have the color codes for leads on a R145 AMI amplifier power transformer and resistance readings for the windings? I've found a transformer with very faded leads and may have to identify them with and ohm meter. Thanks, Dean

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Ami
by john sharpley 10 Sep '25

10 Sep '25

Please please can any one help me. I have a Continental 2, my problem is the tone arm when record finishes scrapes across record (stylist). I’ve set all adjustments according to manual. What am I missing? Help!!! Sent from my iPhone 14 Pro Max

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Speaker needed Rowe/AMI 400-2719
by Tony Miklos 10 Sep '25

10 Sep '25

Hi, For a Rowe/AMI JAL part number 400-02719 6x9 side speaker. On the speaker is the number L 2719 B with other numbers that don't mean much. Anyone have one? I hate to do it but anything close to a 6x9 with a frequency range of 250cps to 1200cps or close I might take. -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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Rock-Ola bubbler light diffuser
by Tony Miklos 09 Sep '25

09 Sep '25

Does anyone here have this box that they can measure what the plastic above the speaker grill? It's about 3"x 10". I was being brain dead when I was there and forgot to measure it. (it is now dark brown and no light reaches the speaker area) I did a quick check at Victory glass and they don't sell one (probably because it's so simple to make). If I don't get the size I can bring some *special* light diffuser material that I got for free and can cut with scissors!!! (It's one of the plastic layers of a trashed LED TV screen.) ;) Handy stuff to have around, but I would rather use some plexiglass. -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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R-91 Optical Switch
by Paul Howlett 08 Sep '25

08 Sep '25

I can't find a source for a replacement optical switch 0407226-01. Has anuone tried to rebuild one? -- Paul Howlett Pinball Paul's 703-361-0420

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Seeburg SRT1 Jukebox-list] wallbox converter
by Nigel Pugh 08 Sep '25

08 Sep '25

Thank you to Mauro for digging out the SRT1 wallbox converter and taking the photos. I now know that there is such a thing, and need to work out if these work with an STD3 Sunstar. Send me the answer somehow please Ron !! If I can find it its compatible I will buy one and buy the manuals to install it. But what’s puzzling the hell out of me is there is absolutely nowhere inside the Sunstar that it would fit. It’s the standard module size of the SHP3 amp. This is making me think it is not compatible so would like someone who knows, to tell me please. There is no spare rack space. Many thanks, Nigel, UK

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Amp noise WAS driving me crazy
by Tony Miklos 07 Sep '25

07 Sep '25

Just wanted to share this. I have an AMI JAL in the shop. One of the many problems was an intermittent static like noise in the speakers. I thought it had the sound of a 60 cycle arc, if you can imagine that. It didn't do it on the bench, but it was intermittent. It was very loud and would go up and down with the volume control. I pulled the inputs and it still did it. Started pulling tubes in the pre amp, then in the power amp. It didn't completely go away until I pulled all 4 output tubes. Somewhere along the line I had even unplugged the pre amp from the power amp and only had the output tubes in it. (they tested good) It still had the noise but very, very quiet. I had to have my ear close to the speaker to hear it. To make a long story a little shorter, it was a bad turntable motor cam switch arcing and causing interference. When I pulled it out, it had about 80 ohms resistance. (Even with the bad switch in, it still played records at normal speed.) It now makes me wonder if I had had an arc fault interrupter circuit breaker in my electric panel, if it would have tripped. -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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AMI Power Supply Capacitor
by M De Simone 07 Sep '25

07 Sep '25

I am rebuilding an AMI model I power supply and am replacing the 1000uF 50v capacitor. It has been suggested by Jay to increase this value to 2400uF. I have a new but older stock can capacitor that is 1500uF 50v on hand that will fit perfectly into the existing clamp but it measures 2800uF with my meter and esr leakage is almost zero. Why is the value almost twice what it should be and should I use it? It would save me a trip or ordering one. I’m more curious than anything else of why the value is so much higher. Thanks, Mauro Sent from my iPhone

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