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Wurlitzer 24 Selection
by Tony Miklos 24 Apr '25

24 Apr '25

This particular problem is with the Peacock in my shop. When the mech clutch disengages and plays the record, sometimes it "ticks" from the pin not coming far enough away from the.. (I should have looked up the real part name) but it ticks as it passes the slots in the "clutch plate". It did have a problem with it disengaging too soon but I adjusted it and it now disengages when the turntable lift is at its peak. I had tried adjusting it a little each direction but still it sometimes ticks. -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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W1015
by Jukebox Repairman 24 Apr '25

24 Apr '25

Has anyone come up with an easy way to free up sticky record trays without disassembling the stack assembly? I'm dealing with a stubborn one that's been sitting idle for ten years Regards, Rick

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Wurlitzer 3700
by Raleigh Shepherd 21 Apr '25

21 Apr '25

I have a Wurlitzer 3700. I can’t get the selection keys to work. It’s also not showing any credits. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Raleigh Shepherd Sent from my iPhone

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Rowe Ami Tropicana mains hum background music
by Nigel Pugh 17 Apr '25

17 Apr '25

Hi All, I've got a perplexing issue here that am looking for some advice on. For 15 years I have successfully ran a background music add on to my Rowe Tropicana. I invented this and it has worked perfectly and kicked in when the jukebox finished scanning, re opened the mute relay to play line input until the user made a jukebox selection which would over ride it. The line in source was operated by switching in the signal at the volume pot. So essentially the power amp only is used to amplify the signal. Phase inverted as it's a Stereo Round jukebox. All that taken care of with isolation transformer in line. Anyhow, as I like to mess, I decided I wanted the input feed to go through the preamp to make use of the same tond controls and loudness contour of the jukebox. So I scrapped it all. I set up an RIAA inverter for the line in and wired the relay so both input feeds go to the preamp phono input. Now, upon testing. Jukebox audio from the cartridge is perfect. Line in audio has hum that increases with volume. If I bypass the relay and feed line in direct, through the RIAA inverter, it's perfect. Anyhow I narrowed the source of the hum down to the 28v ice cube relay that I use to switch between the signals. If I remove power to the relay by physically removing the 28v plus and minus wires, the hum disappears. But what I don't get is that when the relay is powered with the 28v, there is no hum (relat activated by the scan out switch on the mech). The hum appears when either of the plus or minus leads is connected and there is NO power to the relay. The relay is powered only when playing a record, hence it's not powered when the line in signal is present, but when there is no power, it hums. The unpowered relay coil is in no way connected to the source signal switching contacts. Is there anything I can do when the relay is not powered to, for want of a better word, break the circuit between it and it's power? Like adding a couple of diodes or something ? I don't get why it works when powered and initiates hum when unpowered. Any ideas please ? Thank you, Nigel, uk

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Lack of oil/grease = sloppy Rowe gripper assy!
by John Robertson 16 Apr '25

16 Apr '25

Here's a first for my shop - a sloppy worn out gripper assembly where the Trunnion Pins #2-10792-01 are now a sloppy fit both in the mechanism base #6-08707-01 and in the Gripper Trunnion #3-07910-01. Check the parts manual for locations, other than the Trunnion Pins which aren't shown in the R-87 parts manual I used for getting the numbers. I assume now that these pins SHOULD BE OILED once in a while, like every ten years or so. I'll build this into my Rowe tips page and show the damage and how I plan to fix it if I can't find good replacement parts. Depends on how much the customer is willing to spend as well, this job is 3 to 4 hours at a guess. Needs boring, sleeves for both the base and Trunnion, and at least one new Trunnion Pin. Looking for a lube guide but so far nothing in my later Rowe manuals is turning up. Anyone have a factory copy they can send me? The manual says something like "Do not lube for ten years" - but then nothing about what is needed when that time is up! So, be warned when working on Rowe machines to get some oil on those Trunnion Pins - pull them out, oil, and put back. Synthetic grease may be better. Oil the motors too of course. There is a video on Youtube from abjukebox about lubing CD grippers but they recommend WD-40 which I can't abide with, that stuff leads to more seized machines then I care to think about... John :-#)# -- John's Jukes Ltd. 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out"

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rowe button selector switches
by Jukebox Repairman 15 Apr '25

15 Apr '25

Is anybody aware of a source for replacing the PCB Snap switches?? I'm working on a CD 51 model and only two of the switches have continuity. Regards, Rick

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Wurlitzer 850 Peacock light bulb wattage
by Tony Miklos 13 Apr '25

13 Apr '25

Watt watt (pun intended) bulbs are supposed to be behind the rotating polarized lenses for the peacock? I haven't worked on very many 850's, but wow this has a LOT of bulbs! Most of the bulbs were burnt out when it arrived here so I ordered some 15 watt equivalent LED bulbs to replace them. Without looking I forget exactly, but I think it took a couple 25 watt bulbs... or they might be the ones I'm asking about. I surely don't want to overheat those lenses. I now recall that it takes 4 25 watt T7 size base bulbs, I found those in LED also. I didn't get them at Walmart, but someone told me that they carry them. They are used in microwave ovens and other appliances. Also, does anyone know of a QUIET motor for the lenses? The ones from that unnamed parts place are so loud that I can here it over the juke playing at a medium low volume. Unless anyone knows of a better way, if the customer wants to pay, I'm thinking of making a new motor bracket that hangs on two of the speaker isolation mounts. It doesn't look too difficult, even with my limited fabrication skills. And one more thing about the motor, it is 12.5 rpm, is that correct? It seems too fast. Ah... One more thing, does it matter which way the lenses go, like which way faces forward? I didn't try messing with them but the color effects don't seem to be as vibrant as I remember on others. The lenses in it are warped a bit if that could be the problem. -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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OMT CD
by Jukebox Repairman 11 Apr '25

11 Apr '25

CD player is VAU 1252/00 Can I replace it with a CDM12 industrial Or does it require a PRO1 or PRO2 swap? Regards, Rick

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Fwd: Bias adjustment W551 amp
by Shankar Singh 09 Apr '25

09 Apr '25

Has anyone done the modification below? Was any tweaking of the 6.8 Ω resistor required? What are some of the tested transistor replacements for these Wurlitzer part numbers? 130537-5 130537-4 131262 131777 Would like to try on a 550 amp. Thank you Shankar Singh Begin forwarded message: From: Jay Hennigan via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> Date: June 1, 2020 at 14:00:27 GMT-4 To: jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Bias adjustment W551 amp Reply-To: jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com, Jay Hennigan <jay(a)west.net> On 6/1/20 08:40, SFC(r) Rich Myers via Jukebox-list wrote: > Need to replace the output transistors on a W551 amp. Have sourced > replacements NTE121(?).I think are the model. The current transistors are > color coded green..not sure that is.as important today as it was back in the > 60/70s. As others have said, not adjustable. Check the values of the emitter resistors at 0.5 ohm (they're probably OK and difficult to check with most ohmmeters), also the voltage divider resistors on the base circuit. Whenever I repair or rebuild amplifiers of this vintage with blown or previously replaced and mismatched germanium output transistors I will typically replace with silicon and change the values of the bias resistors to match. Looking through my notes I haven't done this swap on a Wurlitzer 551 so can't give you the specifics with 100% certainty but if you go that route, use MJ15016 transistors and replace the 2.7 ohm 2-watt resistors with 6.8 ohm in the base circuit. This should do the trick. Silicon transistors are more reliable and far less expensive than the generic NTE germanium parts available today. -- Jay Hennigan - jay(a)west.net Network Engineering - CCIE #7880 503 897-8550 - WB6RDV _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list Jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/

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Wurlitzer key?
by Tony Miklos 07 Apr '25

07 Apr '25

Is there a TF-50 I have one that almost opens a Wurlitzer 850 and the number isn't stamped on, it's scratched on (looks like I did it) (I now have a punch set). I suppose I need an LF-50, but what is a TF-50? -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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