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Help with Seeburg KD200
by morganfield1913＠gmail.com 07 May '24

07 May '24

Hello, I have a Seeburg KD200 which I have enjoyed for many years - recently the mechanism travels back and forth continuously and the keyboard is not active, ie. No sound of relays when a selection is made. I checked the voltage at the Tormat Electronic Unit (Type TEU-1) to be OK at -300V. The fault may be around the 'Write-In' circuits but I need some help in the diagnosis. I have a service manual. I will appreciate any suggestions. Regards Rod George Australia.

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Seeburg M100A Buzzing
by Jim McClave 05 May '24

05 May '24

Problem still exists , buzzing starts as soon as machine is turned on. Not coming from the speaker, as Ive un-plugged the speaker. Its coming from the mech. Stuck in play position. When I peer thru the back with a bright light I can see the clutch stuck in the upward position. Is there any way I can un-stick it with a long screwdriver , etc? I know it will need taken apart and thouroghly cleaned and re-lubed. But is there any way I can get it un-stuck? Thanks.

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AMI Conti2 record changer motor gear
by Federico Croci 05 May '24

05 May '24

Hello everyone! I have a problem with the gripper gear of my Conti2, not the one on the motor, the other one installed on the central mech. Actually, the hexagonal screw which keep the gear in its place got stripped, so I need to change it. The screw is the hexagonal one which keep in place the F2136 gear. Here is a picture of the gear itself: https://www.tilt.it/f2136_gear.jpg Mine jukebox is a Microtecnica italian Conti2, but usually parts are the same as other Continentals. Being in imperial size, not decimal, it's not an easy part to be found around here; actually, I do not even know what to look for, its real size! If you know its size, if you have that screw, if you have the full gear complete with the screw, I'd be interested in buying it; I'm sure the screw got stripped, not sure if the hole in the gear itself it's still ok. Thanks! -- Federico Croci wiz(a)tilt.it www.tilt.it

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Joining the club with a Seeburg SMC2 Phoenix
by Kevin Moore 05 May '24

05 May '24

Hello All, I mostly or used to read and reply etc on the vector lists. But I have recently come across an SMC2 Phoenix Jukebox, that I'm trying to revive from the Dead. So far it appears that the Phono Control center is putting out decent voltages, but I will go through it soon. I have not touched the AMP as of yet, and have it unplugged. Working on the MCU1 module, batteries leaked because why not. Not to much damage. It did get some of the board interconnects and cables. I've got the MCU on the bench, providing 3.5vac and 40v to the display board along with 40v, 20v, +5 and +12 to the cpu board. The microprocessor, I'm not familiar with, but it does not seem to want to start running, until I give a bit of help. Then it starts to run. I get what appear to be random numbers and letters on the display. So at least I know the display works. Since I have no idea what information I should be seeing on the display I'm in a bit of a holding pattern. Thoughts on this endeavor, I'm not opposed to getting a Gen 2 cpu/display board, but would like to learn a but about this, and see if I could get it running. Kevin

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Ami Continental 2
by john sharpley 03 May '24

03 May '24

Hi can any one help me. The rubber band from scan control box I have a new band, please can anyone assist me in the best way to fit it. Thanks in advance. John. Sent from my iPhone 14 Pro Max

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tips for mounting main fiber gear Wurlitzer 61 anyone?
by Hans Minderman 02 May '24

02 May '24

Does anyone have any tips for mounting a new fiber gear on the main axle of a wurlitzer 61? The new replacement gears which are available through Victory Glass will be a tight fit and judging from the old (worn) gear that I just removed these things look to be brittle. Can these fiber gears be heated to let them expand a bit for an easier fit? Also, I saved the 3 copper rivets for the old gear, should I use those to fasten the gear once it is seated properly on the axle or are there other alternatives? Any tips from those of you have have gone over this procedure before are much appreciated! -Hans

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Recapping Continental Amplifier , testing jig and method
by Doug Duncan 02 May '24

02 May '24

This is a resend since I was having problems posting and had to re-subscribe. Sorry if you have already seen it. Dear All, After a long time away from this I'm planning to recap and renovate the amplifier from my AMI Continental (1). That is a R-2777 Basic Amplifier with L-2156 Add-on Control amplifier. I have a capacitor kit, the schematics and a manual. This is not my first amplifier rebuild. Back at the end of the last century I re-capped a R-22 amplifier from my AMI Model B and also the amplifier from my Wurlitzer Lyric E. Both of these were much simpler and the technique was also simpler where I just took great care to substitute the new for the old. There were no adjustments and if you did it correctly you plug it in at the end and it works which is indeed what happened. This time around there is more complexity and there are measurements. to be made. Firstly I would be happy to hear what people who do this use as a working environment. I have read about using an incandescent lamp in the mains supply circuit in order to be aware that the amplifier under test is not drawing high current. I will be using a step down transformer. I need to ensure that the output is driving into a suitable load (speaker). Are there any other similar requirements? Am I correct in saying that when I come to power up the amp I do so without any of the valves in their sockets? What about the rectifier? The schematic shows that the dc levels are measured without any signal input. Are all measured without any valves or do you add in valves as you progress through the circuit? When you have all the dc levels correct you apply a 1khz signal. What voltage? Have the valves all been refitted by this stage? Am I measuring the voltage from the pins beneath the chassis? Or am I indeed adding them as I measure through the circuit. If you feel I'm planning on doing this wrongly please say so. Any help will be gratefully received. Finally I should say that I am aware of the hazards of higher voltage circuits. I plan to use only one hand when measuring the voltages. Best Regards, Doug

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AMI I 200
by Tony Miklos 30 Apr '24

30 Apr '24

Tomorrow I'll be looking at an AMI "I". (one of my very favorite jukes) Anyway it won't reject the record. About 3 years ago it had the same problem and I think I replaced the tone arm cancel switch. Worked great for 2.5 years. Same thing. Went to see it and voila, it started working before I got there. Tested the switch over and over and it's good. What the heck, I replaced it again and tested the new one real good. I don't have the schematic in front of me but I went over all I could think of. It kept working for 6 months then again it won't cancel the record. I should have posted this a week ago but I forgot. I'm scheduled to go tomorrow and check it out. Any tips anyone? Those schematics are hard to read, and offhand I forget if that manual has the "schemagrams" which are often misleading. Thinking of it now, my manual might be for a model J, but I don't think there would be any difference in the cancel circuit. The one thing I've seen a few times is when the cam switches are dirty and the motor runs loading a record and travels until the motor binds and gets stuck, but it's not that. Also the bridge and cap have been replaced. Thanks, Tony

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Recapping Valve (Tube) amplifiers - Repair Jig and method of proceeding
by Doug Duncan 30 Apr '24

30 Apr '24

Dear All, After a long time away from this I'm planning to recap and renovate the amplifier from my AMI Continental (1). That is a R-2777 Basic Amplifier with L-2156 Add-on Control amplifier. I have a capacitor kit, the schematics and a manual. This is not my first amplifier rebuild. Back at the end of the last century I re-capped a R-22 amplifier from my AMI Model B and also the amplifier from my Wurlitzer Lyric E. Both of these were much simpler and the technique was also simpler where I just took great care to substitute the new for the old. There were no adjustments and if you did it correctly you plug it in at the end and it works which is indeed what happened. This time around there is more complexity and there are adjustments. to be made. Firstly I would be happy to hear what people who do this use as a working environment. I have read about using an incandescent lamp in the mains supply circuit in order to be aware that the amplifier under test is not drawing high current. I will be using a step down transformer. I need to ensure that the output is driving into a suitable load (speaker). Are there any other similar requirements? Am I correct in saying that when I come to power up the amp I do so without any of the valves in their sockets? What about the rectifier? The schematic shows that the dc levels are measured without any signal input. Are all measured without any valves or do you add in valves as you progress through the circuit? When you have all the dc levels correct you apply a 1khz signal. What voltage? Have the valves all been refitted by this stage? Am I measuring the voltage from the pins beneath the chassis? Or am I indeed adding them as I measure through the circuit. If you feel I'm planning on doing this wrongly please say so. Any help will be gratefully received. Finally I should say that I am aware of the hazards of higher voltage circuits. I plan to use only one hand when measuring the voltages. Best Regards, Doug

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Joining the club with a Seeburg SMC2 Phoenix - GEN-2 issue
by NotarySojac 28 Apr '24

28 Apr '24

I'm in the process of installing a GEN-2 MCU for a friend's SMC-1. The batteries leaked in the MCU box and the display panel was showing stuff only a Martian can read. I'm at the point where the new board is to be installed in the box (yes, I cleaned the box up and shot it with some nice paint). I'm encountering a problem that is shown towards the end of this video: Seeburg Disco SMC1 MCU GEN2 Installation | | | | | | | | | | | Seeburg Disco SMC1 MCU GEN2 Installation | | | Seems the new board's buttons protrude about 1/8 inch out of the box. I checked the old board's buttons before disassembly. They were flush with the holes in the top of the box. Anyway, this causes the GEN -2 buttons to depress causing a Stuck Key" error. The guy in the video solved this by removing the key pad and shimming it up to clear the GEN-2 buttons. I'm gonna try using some 1/8 inch fiber washers between the GEN-2 board and the inside of the MCU box to make it sit lower in the box. I'll report on my success/failure. Robert - Georgetown Texas On Sunday, April 28, 2024 at 02:00:25 AM CDT, <jukebox-list-request(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 09:01:04 -0500 From: Kevin Moore <talon.k(a)gmail.com> Subject: [Jukebox-list] Joining the club with a Seeburg SMC2 Phoenix To: jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com Message-ID: <CAFWDB58CgdEQ5CmxEHL9B+CmR_wT77Tg_nE2D8m4PBvgUvDoNA(a)mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Hello All, I mostly or used to read and reply etc on the vector lists. But I have recently come across an SMC2 Phoenix Jukebox, that I'm trying to revive from the Dead. So far it appears that the Phono Control center is putting out decent voltages, but I will go through it soon. I have not touched the AMP as of yet, and have it unplugged. Working on the MCU1 module, batteries leaked because why not. Not to much damage. It did get some of the board interconnects and cables. I've got the MCU on the bench, providing 3.5vac and 40v to the display board along with 40v, 20v, +5 and +12 to the cpu board. The microprocessor, I'm not familiar with, but it does not seem to want to start running, until I give a bit of help. Then it starts to run. I get what appear to be random numbers and letters on the display. So at least I know the display works. Since I have no idea what information I should be seeing on the display I'm in a bit of a holding pattern. Thoughts on this endeavor, I'm not opposed to getting a Gen 2 cpu/display board, but would like to learn a but about this, and see if I could get it running. Kevin ------------------------------

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2024

2023