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Rowe AMI JAL 200
by The Day Family 07 Feb '26

07 Feb '26

I have a JAL 200 from 1963 that registers a selection but picks up and plays a different selection than the one selected the majority of time. Often picks the same selection like it was not reset after playing. It is the first 1100? series mech (tone arm on left side of turntable). Where should I start, I assume something dirty. Thanks, Jim The Day Family jwdlad(a)verizon.net

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NSM Performer Grand Errors
by Peter Brown 07 Feb '26

07 Feb '26

I have a Performer Grand NSM jukebox. I changed the timekeeper chip thought that was the problem now I keep getting errors 80 and 81 can’t get past them. Can anybody help getting desperate? Thanks. Peter

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Seeburg 200C-1 amplifier mount question
by Steve Swaine 07 Feb '26

07 Feb '26

Well, I sort of ran out of room for more jukeboxes a few years ago so have been out of the game for a bit. Wow, a lot has changed in what feels like a pretty short time. Seems it’s gotten quite a bit more challenging with shrinking suppliers, experts, and parts. Anyway, I recently inherited a Seeburg 200C-1. This is a console unit that uses much of the LU innards. I’ve finished recapping the amp and the preamp (wow, that was “fun”) and am starting on the incredibly grimy mech. I didn’t realize how rare these units seem to be - guess they were pretty pricey for the time and not many were sold. It’s hard to find pictures for comparison. So I’m hoping someone has one of these and can help me out. 1) I’m confused about how the power amp mounted to the cabinet. Mine was just sitting on the bottom. But there are two metal rails that I’m assuming supported the amp originally. These are attached at the back to the cabinet sides with one screw in the back such that they can pivot up (not sure why). When lowered they sit on wood blocks that are screwed to the cabinet. There is some sort of leveling screw at the front of these rails, but the screw bottoms just sit on the wood blocks - and on the inside rail the screw lines up with a hole in the block (the hole is because there is an indented screw hole where there is a screw to connect the block to the cabinet). So something is definitely weird here. The amp has a flange on the bottom with mount holes and rubber gaskets. There are some small holes in the metal rails, but they don’t line up with the amp holes. I’m guessing I’m missing some intermediate hardware that connects the amp to the rails. Any pictures/help would be appreciated. 2) I’d love to get a picture of the cabinet back. Mine has the original hefty wood cover screwed over the lower speaker side, but the other side (with the amp and preamp) and the entire top behind the mech are missing the back. I’m convinced there must be a warehouse somewhere filled with nothing but the backs of old jukeboxes and other arcade machines. I’ve had to make a back from scratch for every jukebox I own. Where are the backs??? :). Thanks for any help! -steve.

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Wurlitzer 1400 Selection Mechanism Adj - error in manual
by steveswaine100＠gmail.com 07 Feb '26

07 Feb '26

I purchased and rebuilt a 1400 years ago and it’s been running great except for one problem - sometimes a tray won’t come out. I finally found the issue, and it was related to one adjustment screw that is not identified in my manual - or so I thought. It turns out that there is an error in the manual (at least the version I have). It’s Fig 66 - Indexing Wheel Lock Arm and Cam Plate. The error is that the box labeled “ACTUATING ARM AND NUT ADJUSTING SCREW“ is pointing to the wrong screw - it should be pointing to the adjusting screw that is up and to the right on that same figure. The lower screw is not named, but it is referenced in the text as requiring the 3/16” gap. Once I figured this out I was able to adjust the two screws successfully. When they were out of adjustment, the lock arm would not always engage with the selector cam, so the tray take out arm would not always align with the tray and bind up. It took me a bit to understand how to set the top screw because it was not clear to me what gap I should be setting. If you look VERY closely at the figure (I needed a magnifying glass) you can see that the gap is between the driving prowl and the cam wheel measured HORIZONTALLY. In other words, the prowl sits to the left (looking into the view hole from the back od the machine) of one of the cam wheel teeth by the required 1/32" - 3/64*. I at first thought the gap was measured vertically from the prowl to the cam wheel. One other note…. Apparently my screws were so far off that when I first tried to set them I had a lot of problems - the top screw didn’t seem to do anything and I had to back the bottom screw all the way out to get the desired gap. Also, the top gap was not visible through the plate, as is shown in the figure. After playing with the screws a bit, the segment gear seemed to end up in a different spot at the home position. At this point the top gap was perfectly visible through the plate viewing hole and I was able to set both screws to the correct positions with the screws reasonably close to their midpoints. This totally fixed my occasional tray removal problem. Sorry for the long post and hopefully this isn’t something that was already widely known. But I couldn’t find any reference to this misprint. Hopefully it will help someone out.

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Can’t get in to archives
by Robert Fuelling 06 Feb '26

06 Feb '26

Does anyone know way I can’t get into the archives been trying to for a long time , tries to load and stops Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad. Thanks Bob

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AMI G120 wiring
by Jukebox Repairman 04 Feb '26

04 Feb '26

I looking at taking on a job to redo the wire loom on the mech. As I’m sure most of you know these 50’s AMI’s all have dried up cracking insulation Wondering what is best gauge to replace in order to still provide flexibility for the mech to traverse and no binding on the loom. The cabinet wiring bad too but I have that covered Regards Rick

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NSM ES5 / ES5.1 Battery Ram / Time Keeper / IC5 Chip (NSM09) - External Battery?
by Peter Brown 04 Feb '26

04 Feb '26

Does anyone know of a place that’s sells this chip NSM ES5 / ES5.1 Battery Ram / Time Keeper / IC5 Chip (NSM09)” modded with an external battery holder? I have a second replacement on the way for my Performer Grand but it would be so much nicer is I could just replace the battery when it fails. Often the chips are NOS so the battery is already almost at the end of its life span. Any help or ideas appreciated. Thanks. Peter

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Rock-Ola 490-2 stereo/mono
by Tonys Jukebox Repair 29 Jan '26

29 Jan '26

I saw something I haven't seen before. When disconnecting one channel, both woofers went out. Same thing for the other channel. I looked in the schematic and weird, the two woofers are wired in series! I had to double check to see if I was working on an AMI. (ok, not really) I don't think this thing was ever a "Super Sound". The one midrange sounded like a sick tweeter. I replaced both (the other had been replaced with a crap speaker). Curious about the bad one, I did the "push test" and the cone didn't move. For the hell of it I carefully removed the dust cover and found some glue between the magnet and the voice coil. With a dental tool I broke it loose and got it out. Now it sounds great, most likely the first time since it was manufactured.

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CDM CD Players
by Tonys Jukebox Repair 29 Jan '26

29 Jan '26

I thought I saw new lasers available for CDM players a few months ago. Is it true or was it a dream? If not, are there any conversion kits to go to pro players available left? Or must you gut a converted box and use the parts for the one you want to repair? I'm looking at buying an early Wurlitzer OMT with a CDM player, but the CD doesn't spin. -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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Rock-ola Princess 1493 Write-In Problem
by dvachon3＠teksavvy.com 26 Jan '26

26 Jan '26

Hi All, I'm having a problem with the write-in. It's only happening with the A side. B side selections work fine. If I manually move an A-side selector pin, it will scan pick up the record and play. The pin will be moved back like normal. When I make a selection using the pushbuttons A1, the write-in arm will stop at A1 but won't move the pin out. I select J6, the write-in arm will move to J6 but won't move the pin out. The read-out arm will rotate and stop at the home position. I cleaned the contacts on the write-in relay and all other contacts including the accumulator. I also cleaned the contacts and track on the selector disc. I pulled all the plugs and reinserted to be sure I had a good connection. I even pulled the harness out and checked continuity using a meter. I'd appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks, Doug

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