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1963 AMI ROVE JEL 200 TURNTABLE PROBLEM + INFO
by angkor3 20 Jan '23

20 Jan '23

Hi everybody! I need your help because I have a problem. I just started the restoration of an Ami Rowe JEL200. I have bought it perfectly working last summer but it has been sitting until last week because I was restoring another jukebox. Last week I decided to play a few records to check if everything was ok but it wasn't. I try to explain the problem as clearly as I can since my first language is not English. The mechanism works, the turntable turns but it plays the record very slowly (constant but slow). It gives me the idea that the Automix doesn't work anymore and that it is playing records like they all are 33 and not 45 RPM. Can this be the problem? Or what else? What do I have to check? I'd also like to know which are the correct color patterns for cabinet and painted metal parts in the font panel: online I have seen so many different combinations (some cabinets are in two colous, other just one; metal panels too and also the mech/turntable cover/tray are of various colours!). Thank you for your help and have a good day! Emanuel

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AMI G-80 Popping Sound
by Jamie McElroy 19 Jan '23

19 Jan '23

Hello all, I wonder if anyone can answer this question? On my AMI G-80, after a record plays, the tone arm lifts up and just a second before the record gripper picks up the record to place it back in the record rack, there is a loud "pop" sound from the speaker as if you scraped your finger over the needle really hard. But it's not a scratch sound, it's a popping sound when the tone arm lifts itself from the record. It must be the sound of the tone arm hitting the switch underneath the turntable cover to tell the record to be picked up but it reverberates through the speaker as a popping sound. Is anyone familiar with this and know how to eliminate it? Thank you for your help. Jamie

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TESTING VOLTAGE TO OA2s in Seeburg TSU5
by Jerold Kress 19 Jan '23

19 Jan '23

Jay, Where am I testing for the 150V on the OA2's? From a pin to ground or across two pins? --jerold k

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Update To Seeburg TUS5 Blowing Caps
by Jerold Kress 18 Jan '23

18 Jan '23

Jay Hennigan was correct, pins 6 & 7 on the 6X4 tube socket were shorting. I replaced the socket and C514 is now stable. However, one of the OA2 tubes glows bright blue at the base when I turn on the unit as if the tube is shorting. The issue follows the tube when I switch the OA2's. Has anyone seen this issue on an OA2? I'm assuming I need to replace both tubes before I put the TSU back in the jukebox. Thanks --jerold k

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Update to Seeburg TSU5 Blowing Cap Issue
by Jerold Kress 17 Jan '23

17 Jan '23

I found no shorts to ground that aren't supposed to be grounded, both with tubes & pulse amp in and out. All electrolytics are in the correct configuration. Questions: can I power up the TSU5 without C514 to test if any AC voltage is reaching it? Can I power up the TSU without the other juke connectors plugged into it? Hoping to obtain a new 6X4 & C514 cap today for retesting. Any suggestions or comments greatly appreciated. Here's a link to photos of the wiring with C514 currently removed. https://photos.app.goo.gl/5Bp27qTEeipyfni28

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Rowe Ami Encore cd display unit broken
by Henrik Niinimäki 17 Jan '23

17 Jan '23

Rowe Encore's display is completely dark. How to start fix that?

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AMI Continental 2 Microtecnica bias spring
by Federico Croci 17 Jan '23

17 Jan '23

Hello everyone! I'm working on a Conti2, italian Microtecnica version. I installed a new Audio Technica Stilo (Atn3600l), but I still have some trouble playing some 45s, towards the end of the records, when the tone arm begins to push on the switch for the end of the record. The reset microswitch it's the original one, maybe it could be changed with some other model...? Also, the Microtecnica version it's missing the bias spring I can see in the Conti2 manual. Just wondering if someone has a full kit to sell (I'm missing everything, the orange metal support part, as well as the spring itself), or if it can be bought somewhere. Thanks! -- Federico Croci wiz(a)tilt.it www.tilt.it

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seeburg hf100r motor noise
by Lore Gianno 16 Jan '23

16 Jan '23

Hello, I own a working seeburg 100R. I have always used it as it is (I seldom use it) but now I'm trying to fix all the things that are not really well tuned. One thing is that playing side A of a disc the mech-motor is really quite, while playing side B from the motor-gears "area" there is much more noise. I tried to understand where the noise exactly comes from but it is quite impossible to understand. As you will see the noise is generated only after a disc of side B is put into play position. I uploaded a video, maybe gives some clues to experienced people like you in order to bring me some goos suggestions! Here the video link: https://youtube.com/shorts/hZVCpzK66gs?feature=share Thanks in advance Lore

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FOLLOW UP TO SEEBURG TSU5 ISSUE
by Jerold Kress 15 Jan '23

15 Jan '23

It was suggested I test DC voltages to both C514 & 515 as well as pull the 6X4 and test the AC coming in. 80VDC on C514. 69VDC on C515. C514 was heating up with these tests so I switched off the machine as soon as I could read the voltage. With the 6X4 pulled I next tested 313VAC coming from the transformer to pin 7 of the 6X4 socket but then something unexpected happened: C514 blew. There should have been no voltage reaching either cap with the tube pulled. This suggests a short somewhere but I can't visually see any short. How else would voltage reach the caps? I'm replacing both caps & getting a new 6X4 next week but I don't see this solving the problem if the cap blows with the tube out. Any ideas or suggestions welcomed. jerold k

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FOLLOW UP TO SEEBURG TSU5 ISSUE
by Jerold Kress 15 Jan '23

15 Jan '23

This is a follow up to my previous posting about issues with my Seeburg TSU5. I've isolated the problem to C514 over heating but so far have not determined the cause. I replaced C514 & C515 and R518 that bridges their negative ends. (I tested the caps to be sure they weren't shorted & the resistor's value is good.) C514 is connected to the -400V side of the 6X4 rectifier tube. I know this is a positive ground system so I was careful to replace the caps in their proper configuration, with both pos ends soldered to ground. I've switched out the 6X4 with 3 working replacements (all from working guitar amps) but C514 continues to overheat. (I shut down the system after a few seconds but in that time C514 is warm to hot.) I can test the voltage reaching this cap if that info will help in a diagnosis. Any insight into why this cap is overheating so quickly would be appreciated. Thanks! jerold k

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