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Re: Seeburg R load and unload issue
by Kent Z 19 Jun '23

19 Jun '23

Thanks guys. So easiest way to work on clutch would be park mechanism far right side, Then remove mech from cabinet to work on it? Any tricks to be aware of removing clutch and reinstall? Thx, Kent Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

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Seeburg R record load and unload issue
by Kent Z 18 Jun '23

18 Jun '23

When the mechanism attempts to load or unload record, the cam turns about halfway and sits and the mech chatters. Its stuck until I help it by pulling back on the clamp arm assembly, then it completes the unload cycle. Loading record is the same issue. I have oiled the cam and clamp arm area that I can reach from the front. Any ideas? Kent Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

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Wurlitzer OMT CD
by Jukebox Repairman 17 Jun '23

17 Jun '23

This question is probably directed to John. I want to know if there is a way to convert to a full size CD PRO player in this customer machine I’m looking at? The bracket that holds the original had a flat washer spacer that was glued to the bracket. Not sure why unless a spacer or mounting tab was missing??? Regards Rick

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NSM ES2 system
by Tony Miklos 16 Jun '23

16 Jun '23

Let me start with the fact that I know next to nothing about NSM's, but I've managed to fix all <20 I've worked on. I have a Prestige II with an ES2 system that acts odd. Lets say to make a selection 123. Press 1 - OK, press 2 - OK, press 3 and the 3 goes into the 2nd digit place so it's reading 13. Additional pressed buttons will show up in the second digit place with 1 staying as the first digit. What makes it more odd is that yesterday something happened and it worked correctly until it was turned off and on again, then it went back to making the strange selections. I have another credit/selection computer and that one works correctly all the time. Tried powering it up with the cabinet switch open and closed with no difference. Tony

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Ballasts and fluorescent lamps
by Ed Inman 10 Jun '23

10 Jun '23

Have a customer whose fluorescent lamps went out. Jukebox takes rather rare F25T12/CW/33 lamps but I found a pair and replaced both FS-25 starters. One of the new lamps blinked for a second then went out. The other won't come on at all. Typical of failed ballasts? I noticed the ballasts are also connected to "noise suppression capacitors." Is this typical? Maybe bad capacitors? Are they really necessary? Should I try bypassing the capacitors or try replacing the ballasts? Both? Seems odd that both would fail at the same time. I'm sure this isn't rocket science but I was expecting the new lamps to start right up so it was kind of disappointing & the customer is frustrated. Any suggestions appreciated. thanks, Ed

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Replacing the horn tweeter for a AMI Continental 1
by Doug Duncan 08 Jun '23

08 Jun '23

I recently replaced the capacitor and resistors in the crossover of my Continental and discovered that the next problem is that the horn tweeter is broken. So, what to replace it with? I read a lot of discussion in the archive and indeed here that says that piezo horns are unsatisfactory.but are cheap. I'm happy to pay for a compression type if I can find one. The problem seems to me to be one of finding a horn that will slot into the space. I could buy an off the shelf unit like a .Pyle-Pro PH391 but it is a lot bigger and would mean that I would have to cut out a slot in the cabinet to fit. I will carry on and see if I can find another of the existing size. Alternatively, there are separate horn drivers available without the horn. They all? have a 1 inch throat. I could make an adaptorthe existing horn by an adaptor to take one of those.which would be preferable to cutting the cab.. I could also try to find a circular tweeter to substitute and blank off the rest of the slot. It would have to be a high sensitivity type. Has anyone else tried to solve this problem? What, in detail, did you do? Any advice will be gratefully received. Doug

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No Emails / Can't login
by ksherwin＠wi.rr.com 03 Jun '23

03 Jun '23

Shame on me for not doing this sooner, but for several months I've not received any emails. I checked the archives (http://jukebox.markmail.org/) and saw there were recent postings so obviously the list is still alive. I've checked my email client to make sure the messages were not being rejected and that looks OK. Also, on the archive site I tried to log in and was rejected. Requesting a "forgot password" the site indicates my email is not recognized. I'm not sure I'll see this message come back via the forum, so if someone could let me know who to contact to resolve the user ID/Password issue I'd appreciate it. Thanks, Karl

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Rock-Ola Gripper roll pin size
by Tony Miklos 27 May '23

27 May '23

Does anyone know offhand what the size of the roll pin for the gripper assembly of a 60', 70's,80's .... model? Customer told me he lost his when he tried to fix it. (this should be fun when I go there)

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AMI E-80 Turntable Motor
by Jamie McElroy 26 May '23

26 May '23

Hello all, Just a quick question. Does anyone know or has anyone ever used a G-80 turntable motor on a E-80 mechanism. I have an E-80 and the belts just cause it to be a shade slower than 45 rpms records to play slow. I wondered if they would fit the same on the mechanism. I'm trying to get away from the belts and go with a direct motor. Just wanted to ask...any thoughts? If not, any thoughts on how to get the belts to not play a shade slower on the turntable motor. As always, thanks for your help. Jamie

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Help with CD mechanism - Rockola CD8 -
by ron jukebox 21 May '23

21 May '23

Hello, My CD mechanism is not acting right on my CD8 Rockola Nostalgia Bubbler Jukebox... First off, after viewing a few good Youtube videos of some 45 Rockola mechanisms and getting a good idea on how to take them apart, clean, and lubricate, I started to look at my mechanism on the CD8. They look similar but the very first thing I noticed ( and started to worry about ) is that thegears on the CD8 'appear' to be made of a plastic (black). I played with the mechanism a bit and can determine that mine is definitely a bit 'gummy'. If I play the juke for a while, and it gets warm in there, it seems to operate just fine. This Juke is set up to turn itself on after a power outage and the 'attract' mode is also set.After some storms here not long ago, we lost poser at the house, but I was not here when the power came back on. When I did get home and noticed the Juke was on, I looked and no CD was on the player. I opened the door and about 30-40 CDs fell out. The CD8 had apparently tried to play some random CD's, but when it tried to return them to the carousel, it could not hold on to them. When, as I said earlier, I was examining the mechanism in action, I saw where, when readyto replace the CD in the carousel, the front part of the 'bow' would just barely grab the CD andkind of cause it to flip almost. Sometimes, the CD would stay on the CDPRO player and othertimes it would flip the CD off the player but never return it. Now, all that sounds (to me) like the mechanism needs cleaned and lubricated for sure BUT, as I got down to the same level with myeye as the CD player, I notice the the CD player was no longer 'touching" the "L" brackets that hold the CD pro player down. The CD player was down about 3/8" (maybe 5-6mm) from the bracket. Then as I manually operated the CD lift mechanism, I could see that as the outer part of the bow tried to grab the edge of the CD, it was actually grabbing just at the bottom edge of the bow as the CD player was lower than it had been before. Has anyone ever seen this? I carefully took off the springs from the feet of the CD player and stretched them a bit, bringing the CDplayer back up to the normal position which just below and barely touching the "L" brackets that hold the player down at the two opposite corners. The mechanism, despite the fact that i still is a bit gummy and (IMHO) needs to be disassembled, cleanedand lubed, is now working fine. If picks up the CD from the player and places it back in the carousel. I guess I have rambled on too much about the springs collapsing, but on to some seasoned advice from allof you. I still plan on taking out the pin and cleaning and lubing the mechanism. I am seeking advice and warnings in doing so. Since the gears at the end are plastic, does this restrict the type of lubrication when re-assembling. It appears to me that the factory using a white grease instead of oil.I could be wrong on that but it looks like it white grease dried up to me. Does this mechanism follow the same disassemble and reassemble as the older ones for a 45 with all metal gears, albeit it a pot metal type of metallic gear? On a few videos I have seen, they suggest to place some oil and it penetrate the mechanism and that that processwill sometimes save the hassle of disassembly. I sure do not want to do that as I afraid what the oil may drip upon.Also, I like the visible mechanism on this juke and would not want to see it all oily. I apologize for the extra length, but want to give sufficient info for the helpers! I thank you all in advance,Ron Parker

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