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W2900 Problems
by Shankar Singh 11 Jul '24

11 Jul '24

I am now playing this juke after a couple years rest. Cleaning all the relays and switches made it operational again. 2 annoying issues prevail- 1. Back Stop Pawl keeps sticking. I sprayed a few drops of auto parts cleaner at the pivot. It frees up for a few hours and then sticks again to cause wrong odd side selections. Any suggestions? Trying to avoid removing and washing. 2. Turntable motor noise. This noise is not heard through the speakers. But it sounds loud before and after the music drowns it out. If I push off the drive wheel from the motor sleeve, you can barely hear the disengaged motor spinning by itself. Could the arm that the drive wheel spins on have a problem? The sleeve seems pitted. I think this could have been done years ago to avoid issues from hardened drive wheel tyre. Could the belt or rubber mounts cause this? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you. Shankar Singh

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Re: Reduced tension WurliTzer vertical play lift arm springs.
by Shankar Singh 11 Jul '24

11 Jul '24

Rob, Would this be a suitable gauge for the spring stretching exercise? https://us.ohaus.com/en-us/products/balances-scales/mechanical-scales-balan… 12 oz would be about 340 g. What sort of value would it be for an unstretched spring? Thank you Shankar Singh On May 4, 2022, at 14:23, Chan Gade <chan.gade(a)yahoo.com> wrote: I first reduced the lift springs in March 1986 when I got my first W1800. The approach I’ve always used is to simply overstretch them carefully so as to weaken the force down to approx 6 oz. for the 100-104 and approx 12 oz for the 200. I over weakened a spring on a 3000 to 6 oz and it worked reliably anyway. He reason for the slight added force on the 200’s is the friction from the duckbills and more careful setting of the guide rollers. I’ve always taken a whole setup approach. Mechs are washed. Carousel removed. That involves removal of the arch and motors as well as all underside assemblies. After drying and relube the carousel in replaced and I make sure it is locked/indexed to the crank. I manually turn the large gear in reverse to allow a lift arm to just begin to enter a slot. It must be centered. I double check by releasing the backstop pawl and checking of any movement. Wurlitzer was pretty good at setting this uniformly, but I have found a cumulative shift due to variances in the carousel. Try this at several points on both A and B sides. If more than a 1/16in shift is consistently noticed, I reset that side’s backstop pawl, Here I let the duckbill enter the slot just to the point where it’s hinge in entering as well. Carefully move the backstop pawl to just engage the carousel tooth and lock it. ----Guide rollers must be able to turn freely. The old oil often causes them to get stiff or not turn at all. This will affect the last inch of lift where they help position the gap or duckbill so they don’t drag on the turning record. Wurlitzer tended to use a bit tighter gap in the rollers than necessary. I open them ‘just enough” to do their job without adding much drag. --Stretching the springs: It is pretty simple, I attach one end to a rigid item such as a steel shelf unit and, using a shop glove I pull back on the spring over it’s entire length to the point where I feel as slight “give’.. Put the spring back on the mach and with lift arm fully up, I measure the force required to pull it back down against the spring tension.. I use a simple Ohaus spring pull scale hooked to the bottom of the arm elbow. Go slow and expect to try several times till you get the desired tension.. When I was doing Wirlitzers by the half-dozen ( I really liked them) the process became quick and intuitive. Now, I’d be back to first time caution. This was just one of several mods to make the old mechs less brutal and it is especially helpful in preserving the later AC gearmotors (2700-3300) for which there is no modern replacement that I’m aware of. It would be great if someone produced new-weaker springs, but this is probably too esoteric…so as usual, we are on our own. RobNYC

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Rowe CD title page Motor
by Jukebox Repairman 09 Jul '24

09 Jul '24

I have a customer with Model I CD machine. This has the vertical title pages and like most the gear in the motor has stripped. The original motor is a Merkle-Korff ( now nidec) and apparently a rare commodity. Tried calling them directly and emailing but no response. Does anyone have a spare motor they could part with? Regards Rick

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Wurlitzer 1050
by Jukebox Repairman 07 Jul '24

07 Jul '24

Carousel continues to spin after last record has played. Failed MIcroswitch or ??? <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_cam…> Virus-free.www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_cam…> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

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Mills Do-Re-Mi
by ascott822 07 Jul '24

07 Jul '24

This guy has worked fine for years since it’s restoration. Now, The box takes a selection but when carousel rotates to the record the tone arm comes down and right back up and carousel continues to rotate. Suggestions please. Thank you Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

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Cartridge terminals
by Tony Miklos 06 Jul '24

06 Jul '24

Does anyone have a good source for the round terminals that slide onto the cartridge pins? I looked around and it looks like the going rate is about $5 for four! (plus shipping) It used to be that new cartridges came with them but not anymore (for a lot of them anyway). I thought I'd find something like 100 for $10. Maybe the return of the vinyl drove prices crazy? Tony

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Seeburg Redhead Blue Needles.
by Jim McClave 06 Jul '24

06 Jul '24

Anyone have a good source for these? Needles for Jukeboxes is out of stock, and Ive been told theirs is of poor quality anyway.

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Problem with AMI-C Transfer Motor
by Alan Segal 05 Jul '24

05 Jul '24

I am in the process of getting an AMI C jukebox to work. I am having a problem when the transfer motor attempts to lift a record. It stops at about 45 degrees, and I can manually help it finish (not sticky, moves evenly). I have previously cleaned out all the old grease from both record rack and transfer motor. I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I did replace the selenium rectifier with a single phase bridge rectifier (35a, 1000 V) [no resistor added]. I am really anxious to get this tall boy working, so any ideas on how to get that transfer motor to work better would be appreciated. <https://www.taydaelectronics.com/single-phase-bridge-rectifier-mic-35a-1000…>

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Rock Olga 1428
by ascott822 02 Jul '24

02 Jul '24

Sound went out suddenly on my 1428. The amp has been re-capped and tubes replaced 3 years ago. Wondering if there is a mute switch I might could check and it’s location. Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

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RPMs
by Tony Miklos 01 Jul '24

01 Jul '24

For the record, a person born in 33 was 45 in 78.

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