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201 selection issue
by Jukebox Repairman 01 Apr '26

01 Apr '26

Tony, John, and group. I removed the ES from the machine, degreased / cleaned and now the machine is selecting fine. Still unsure why it was selecting fine then stopped But it’s working now and that’s good enough for me. BTW I originally posted as a 222 which was an error on my part Appreciate the help with troubleshooting Regards Rick.

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Rockola 1428 speaker
by ascott822＠aol.com 31 Mar '26

31 Mar '26

I need to replace the speaker in the 1428. Will any good quality 12” permanent magnet speaker work alright? Of course the the connection into the amp has a 5K ohm 5 watt resistor. Suggestions appreciated. Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

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222 selection issue revisited
by Jukebox Repairman 31 Mar '26

31 Mar '26

Tony has been providing some one on one help to me but i wanted to share this strange issue with the group This 222 arrived set to free play where pushing an alpha and numeric together would make a selection. Owner wanted it set back to coins. I found one wire going to latch solenoid was removed and the take off ramp in the credit unit had been bent to one side for continuous credit. After putting these two items back to original the machine accepted credit with coins normally. After a couple days of use it stopped selecting. Scan twice and stopped. Used the battery test to load the tormat, made selection and it started playing every song verifying readout function normally. Now here is the strange part. With no credit on the machine, pushing alpha and numeric together actuates the solenoid in the credit unit. The TSR had been recapped previously and all resistors test good. With credit on the machine it will select and play A7 but nothing else. Pulling my hair out with this one and i dont have much hair left at my age. Any ideas on where or what to look at? Gotta get it going before my upcoming knee surgery Regards, Rick

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Seeburg plug #305634
by bpoldstyle＠yahoo.com 30 Mar '26

30 Mar '26

Hi all, I'm not having any luck tracking down the 9-pin plug for an RSVC-1 remote control for my Seeburg 222. Any ideas where to find one? It is Seeburg # 305634. Thank you! Bruce

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list working?
by Bruce Petersen 28 Mar '26

28 Mar '26

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Wurlitzer CDM to CD Pro
by Tony Miklos 19 Mar '26

19 Mar '26

I have a Wurlitzer Model 1015 00 (OMT). I had converted it to a PRO player years ago and it worked fine. Now the player stopped working. I swapped it with another player with the same results. I also put it's player in my test machine and it worked fine. Turning is on, it shows a flashing 8 in the credit display and on the player control board (not sure of that name), upon power up it shows: 0140 pause, 0607 pause, 4 pause, 0 that stays lit. I have no paperwork that tells me what the 3 buttons on that board are, but if I press the top/rear button to turn the number to 5, then press the lower/first button, it will play the entire CD. Fiddling around with it I can make it play different tracks. The cancel button on the rear of the box does nothing. The Interface board (about 2.25" x 9") is quite dark from heat up where the electronics are. I just found a schematic for the interface board that it called a "plug connector CD" that looks to be right but I haven't got to dig into it yet. So after this long verbose ramble I ask should I look for a problem in that "plug connector" board or the board below the player with the 3 buttons and a single digit display? Also what are the three buttons that aren't labeled? That would be nice to know. To top things off, at the location of the box, I could select a song and it would select the CD, try to play it, then put it back. Then the owner took it to me, on it's back with the shipping bolts barely threaded in. Now it doesn't select anymore. Just the flashing 8. The cable that goes behind the mech looks and tests OK, but it could be intermittent. Any help appreciated, -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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When making a selection the substract coil in Seeburg EPFAU keeps energized.
by Jurjen Tjalsma 14 Mar '26

14 Mar '26

Hello, I've a problem with my Seeburg EPFEAI (exportmodel). When I make a selection the substractcoil remains energized, resulting in a loud buzzing. It wil play however the correct record. I can only stop it by turning the machine off. I've cleaned all the contacts in the pricing unit and electrical selector. Touching the contactplate of the timing relay in the pricing unit resets it. Should it work that way? I mean, when making a selection, the timing relay releases after a while the substract coil? I'm kinda stuck on this... I have the manual, but unfortunately it doesn't help me this time. It has only the schematic for the UDPU4. The pricing unit this one uses is the DPU3, but I don't have the schematic for that. The timing relay is good. Can anybody help me? Kind regards, Jurjen

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Seeburg 201 Selection issue.
by Jukebox Repairman 14 Mar '26

14 Mar '26

Establish credit via coin. Make single selection scans twice and stops Make selection and while scanning make another selection mech stops and plays random selection. Never had a tormat machine exhibit that kind of behavior. Troubleshooting guide doesn’t outline possible cause. Thoughts? Regards Rick

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Re: Pickering 340 to replace Redhead?
by Nigel Pugh 08 Mar '26

08 Mar '26

From what I read, the cartridge booster is for when you are using a mono amp. It only has one input. But either way, yes, it looks like the cartridge isn't currently available. I'll keep thinking about this one. Later tone arm and cradle is probably the way to go. Regards, Nigel > > On 7 Mar 2026 at 12:26, Steve Swaine <steveswaine100(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > Thanks! But it looks like VG has been out of stock on those for a while. Perhaps they will get some in again. > > > But they also say you have to add their “amp booster” or change out your tube amp for solid state. I’d rather not do either! > > > > Thanks, > -steve. > > > > > > > On Mar 7, 2026, at 12:36 AM, Nigel Pugh <pughn(a)npsyssoft.force9.co.uk> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > Just had a thought, VG do a 352 replacement cartridge, which is the 340 with the correct mount for your arm. That would mean less messing. > > > > The yellow stylus originally was the 2 gram tracker. Green was 4g. Purple I think was a sapphire one. > > > > Yellow was used in the 160 selection machines, green in the 100 selection and non Seeburgs that used the cartridge. > > > > These days like most styli the tolerances and specs and colours of all the cheap options has gone out of the window. Yellow is the only new replacement available. > > > > Nigel > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 6 Mar 2026 at 23:54, Steve Swaine <steveswaine100(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > Thank for the help! So I think you are suggesting I get a 340-compatible arm and 340 cartridge as opposed to going back to a mono arm - do I have that right? > > > > > > > > > If I’m tracking - the needles that are available for the 340 are the “yellow needles”. Someone told me that the 340 originally used the green needles and the yellow ones are “questionable”. But if it makes more sense to go in this direction then I’m open to it. It looks like needles4jukeboxes does not currently have any 340s for sale. I see one on eBay for $240. What do I search on to find a compatible tonearm that will fit in my 100C? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > -steve. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 6, 2026, at 2:09 PM, Nigel Pugh <pughn(a)npsyssoft.force9.co.uk> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Steve, > > > > > > > > Would you be better finding a donor stereo arm in its entirety with the 340? You've future proofed yourself as much as possible then, and a much nicer cartridge more compatible with modern records. > > > > > > > > Regards > > > > > > > > Nigel, uk > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 6 Mar 2026 at 16:32, Steve Swaine <steveswaine100(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Thanks much - yeah, I just got off the phone with a local jukebox repair place and they said my best option is to go back to a mono tonearm and buy either a new build cart from needles4jukeboxes or a used aftermarket cart off eBay. So either way I’m changing the tonearm and dealing with all the calibration fun. > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > -steve. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mar 6, 2026, at 9:29 AM, Nigel Pugh <pughn(a)npsyssoft.force9.co.uk> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Steve, > > > > > > > > > > > > I can't answer about the impedance and amp mods etc, but the 340 cartridge isn't a direct plug and play. > > > > > > > > > > > > 25 years ago there was a version that was plug and play, and then after that I am sure there was an adapter that would allow the 340 to be used. > > > > > > > > > > > > Bit don't expect to buy one and plug it in to the arm that takes the T bar cartridge. > > > > > > > > > > > > I think you may need to adjust the counterbalance weight and replace the mechanical trip switch too - no problems doing that and VG or someone sells an optical switch as a replacement.. > > > > > > > > > > > > Nigel, uk > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 6 Mar 2026 at 15:17, Steve Swaine via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi, > > > > > > > I’m wondering if the Pickering 340 (340D?) is a direct replacement for my Seeburg stereo redhead. The redhead takes T-Needles which are no longer available. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have an M100C that came to me modified with a G amplifier and stereo tonearm. On a related thread this forum helped me understand how the stereo cart should beat best be wired to feed the mono amp (thanks again!). But I’m still trying to find the best path to new needles. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > It looks like the stereo 340 carts take the yellow needles, which are still available. So, I’m wondering if this cart will work for me and if any mods will be required. Still 45K amp impedance wired in parallel through the 10K series resistors? I’m guessing I’ll need to adjust the tonearm pressure at a minimum. Any other compatibility issues before I sink the $$$? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > -steve. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com > > > > > > > To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com > > > > > > > %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s > > > > > > > Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/ > > > > > > > > > > > >

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Pickering 340 to replace Redhead?
by Steve Swaine 07 Mar '26

07 Mar '26

Hi, I’m wondering if the Pickering 340 (340D?) is a direct replacement for my Seeburg stereo redhead. The redhead takes T-Needles which are no longer available. I have an M100C that came to me modified with a G amplifier and stereo tonearm. On a related thread this forum helped me understand how the stereo cart should beat best be wired to feed the mono amp (thanks again!). But I’m still trying to find the best path to new needles. It looks like the stereo 340 carts take the yellow needles, which are still available. So, I’m wondering if this cart will work for me and if any mods will be required. Still 45K amp impedance wired in parallel through the 10K series resistors? I’m guessing I’ll need to adjust the tonearm pressure at a minimum. Any other compatibility issues before I sink the $$$? Thanks, -steve.

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Rockola 1428 low volume
by ascott822＠aol.com 06 Mar '26

06 Mar '26

My 1428 has recently developed this issue - very very low volume from speaker. Volume control has no effect either way. Amp has been recapped in the last 5 years. Tubes test good. Suggestions please. An all together different issue is that the selector drops to the very bottom and plays the last record, by-passing any other selections. Thanks Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

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Wurlitzer OMT early CD
by Tony Miklos 04 Mar '26

04 Mar '26

I don't know a lot about Wurlitzers of this era. I'll start this off with, on the bench, applying 14vdc on the bench power supply to pins 3 ground and the plus to pin 4 of X5, in about 1/2 second, the leds K and Z light up and stay on. Then in another 1/2 second relay 2 energizes and stays on. I don't know if that is a normal power up routine? The SCC is a 2500 CD. Now the really weird part. Inside the jukebox, with no cables plugged into the board, from pins 3 and 4 of the plug for X5, it measures about 14 volts DC, no AC, this is normal. But, when that plug is in the SCC on power up, the 14 volts jumps up to 30 volts! Thankfully the 7805 has over-voltage protection, in addition to a zener on the board so the +5vdc goes to zero. I have tried this with all of the plugs in the SCC and with only plug X5 in. Either way the 14vdc jumps up to 30vdc and the +5vdc goes to zero. On the SCC, it has a history of R3 running hot and turning the board very dark. Also someone cut into the plasic cover in what looks like an attempt to cool the area at and above the 7805 and R3. Also, I don't know if it's common, the interface board top third is very dark from heat. This machine has been on 24-7 for most of its life. Any help greatly appreciated. -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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Part needed. 1015 Wurly
by Jukebox Repairman 01 Mar '26

01 Mar '26

I have a customer looking for a tone arm assembly. He needs the Tonearm and the mount base. Let me know if you can help. Regards Rick

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Help picking new speaker
by Steve Swaine 25 Feb '26

25 Feb '26

Hi Forum, Well I’m working on my “new” Seeburg 200C and it looks like I need a new speaker as the original appears to be blown - getting lots of base distortion that I don’t hear at all when connected to a remote speaker. I’m not a speaker guy, so hoping to get some help. I’m fine buying a new speaker rather than gamble on a vintage one, but I want to be sure I’m not going to damage anything in my system and get something that will sound good. The 200C uses the HFA1-L6 amplifier rated at 20 watts. The load impedance is “8 or 16 ohms” and the output voltage is “16 volts at 16 ohm output socket”. The maximum output power is 27.5 watts at 400 CPS with 2.4 volts input. The manual stresses that the total power supplied to all the speakers must be between 5 watts and 20 watts. Again, not a speaker guy - I thought it was ok to use a higher wattage speaker than your amp wattage, but many on-line sources say that the speaker wattage really should not be more than the amp output - especially for tube amps. The speaker specs say: - Dual, coaxial, permanent magnet type - Low frequency unit - 12” direct radiator - High frequency unit - Pressure driver with multi-cellular horn - Impedance (complete system) - 16 ohms I see a lot of guitar speakers on line that are 16ohm and are 20-25 watts, but they don’t have a lot of range - not sure I need that much, but 5KHz (which seems typical) seems too low. I’d really appreciate some advice! Thanks!

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Connecting multiple Seeburg wall boxes
by M De Simone 24 Feb '26

24 Feb '26

Why can only 6 wallboxes be connected to each auxiliary power supply? I have a situation in a diner where they have wired 5 wallboxes together and another 10 together. They want to get it up and running but don’t want their walls torn up to figure out the wiring. Just curious as it’s probably done in case of 6 wallboxes being operated at the same time. This scenario is very unlikely in this case, so before moving forward with tearing up walls and fishing wire I thought I’d ask the group. Thanks, Mauro Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Help picking new speaker
by David Breneman 24 Feb '26

24 Feb '26

On Tuesday, February 24, 2026 at 08:15:40 AM PST, Steve Swaine <steveswaine100(a)gmail.com> wrote: > I have not tried that, but that’s a good thought. I have to find > something that has an external speaker connection. Any issues > connecting a 16ohm speaker to an 8 ohm system for a short test? Should not be a problem for testing. > I did try hooking up a 70 volt speaker I have to that output and it > sounded great, but appreciate that’s not a complete verification >that the speaker is bad. It sounds from your description that you connected the 70 volt speaker to the output for the cabinet speaker. The line going to the cabinet speaker is a regular 8 ohm connection, All (with usual disclaimers) 70 volt speakers are 8 ohms between the transformer and the speaker itself. Connecting that to the transformer of a 70 volt speaker will result in very low volume to that speaker. I'm guessing your speaker may have a loose internal connection to the voice coil, of that the cone is rubbing on something, but the best way to confirm that is to connect it to another amp and power it at the level at which is distorts and see what happens. > Any suggestions on speaker reconning sources? I will check > around locally (St Charles, St Louis Missouri), but suspect I’ll have to > send it somewhere. I'm sorry, I don't.

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Johnny Velchoff
by Tony Miklos 22 Feb '26

22 Feb '26

Does anyone have contact information for Johnny Velchoff? -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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Seeburg 222
by Jukebox Repairman 22 Feb '26

22 Feb '26

Years ago Ron Rich helped me with a 220 that was making a popping noise in the audio during scan. I'm having the same issue with a 222 and checked my notes but couldnt find what the resolve was. Anybody know what causes this? Its not the mute contacts. for some reason im thinking he said it was a cap but again i dont recall. Regards, Rick

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How to replace seeburg motor mounts
by Steve Swaine 19 Feb '26

19 Feb '26

Hi Forum, Looking for help in how to do this. There are many videos on replacing the coupling but not so much for the mounts. The old mount rings look to be pressure fit on the motor and I’m not sure the best way to get them off without damaging the motor (or myself). I’m also worried about how to get the new ones on safely. The idea of whomping my motor with a big hammer is scary. I’ve seen that some replacement motor mounts are sold as the rubber part only with the instructions to glue the new rubber to the original metal rings. But my replacements already have the rings and if there is a safe way to remove the original rings then I’d rather do that then try and get the new rings off the new rubber without damage and the trust my glue job to put them on the old rings. Thanks!

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Re: Stereo cart wired mono - what new,, impedance resistance?
by js＠cimmeri.com 18 Feb '26

18 Feb '26

> ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2026 16:04:13 +0000 (UTC) > From: David Breneman<david_breneman(a)yahoo.com> > Subject: [Jukebox-list] Re: Stereo cart wired mono - what new, > impedance resistance? > To: js--- via Jukebox-list<jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> > Message-ID:<1792891075.1306630.1771344253419(a)mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > > On Tuesday, February 17, 2026 at 07:53:39 AM PST, js--- via Jukebox-list<jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: > >> Surely you know what a brighter or bright top end is? > Yes, but the opposite of bright is usually dull, which was my guess. Never heard "dark." > That's why I wanted to make sure I understood what you meant. No offense intended. No offense taken. I just meant lowered high frequency content as opposite of "bright" or excessive high frequency content. So, in other words, a reduced amplitude of high frequencies, typically starting somewhere in the upper treble. Not a hard low-pass cutoff, but more like a gentle roll-off or loss of “air,” sparkle, and edge.

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Wurlitzer Mute Relay - German models, Niagra Baltic etc
by Iain Jamieson 17 Feb '26

17 Feb '26

Hi Everyone, I'm trying to find a mute relay for a German Wurlitzer. In this case a Baltic 3. Part number is 18010022. Flippers are out of stock - Anyone got one they would like to part with? Thanks Iain

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Re: Stereo cart wired mono - what new, impedance resistance?
by js cimmeri.com 17 Feb '26

17 Feb '26

Fill me in a little. Was the "redhead" a ceramic or magnetic cartridge? And the cartridge you're using now, is it ceramic or magnetic? Configuration :: Load seen by each coil Normal stereo :: 47kΩ Hard-tied mono :: 23.5kΩ Resistor summed ~47kΩ (proper) > On 02/14/2026 3:29 PM EST Steve Swaine <steveswaine100(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > Thanks! Yeah I saw that the redheads amps/preamps expect 47k, so was thinking for the stereo wired in parallel it should be half that. But I guess it’s just whatever sounds good? I did read that it’s important not to go too low (or let it drop to no load) or the cart can be damaged. Not sure if this is true. I’ll probably put it back to the 39K then. I recall it sounded fine - I just changed it because it was suggested that I restore it to what was in the schematic not appreciating that the stereo mod might make that not the best advice. > Thanks, > -steve. > > > > On Feb 14, 2026, at 1:31 PM, js--- via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: > > > > It's not a hypercritical value. Normally, you would get an idea of the value from the manufacture's suggestions in the little pamphlet that would accompany the cartridge (or the jukebox). > > > > Far more critical are the tone shaping circuits in the amp itself... which compensate for not only cartridge characteristics, but also record characteristics (with RIAA being one of them, after a certain date) and room characteristics (if the amp offers controls for that).

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Wurlitzer Early CD OMT
by Tony Miklos 16 Feb '26

16 Feb '26

Someone got to this before me. I have no idea what may have been wrong or what has been done, except this. The CD player acts like it's typical failure symptoms, but it tests good and a different known good one doesn't work. All the flaky BC337's (it's in the serial number range), they were all replaced with 2N2222's. But transistor Q15 was also replaced with a 2N2222 which is a BC327 NPN not a PNP BC337 Could that one transistor cause the cd player to not work? I'll install a replacement, but the juke is over an hour away, so I'd like some idea if that one transistor could have been the problem or if I'll have to dig deeper. -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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Re: Stereo cart wired mono - what new, impedance resistance?
by js＠cimmeri.com 14 Feb '26

14 Feb '26

It's not a hypercritical value. Normally, you would get an idea of the value from the manufacture's suggestions in the little pamphlet that would accompany the cartridge (or the jukebox). Far more critical are the tone shaping circuits in the amp itself... which compensate for not only cartridge characteristics, but also record characteristics (with RIAA being one of them, after a certain date) and room characteristics (if the amp offers controls for that). > Hi Forum, > My first juke restore was an M100C that had been modified with a G amp and a stereo redhead cart wired in parallel to feed the mono amp input. The amp had not been totally rebuilt but did have a few caps replaced (quite some time before). It also had the cartridge impedance resistor changed to 39K from the original 10K. I’ve since learned that the 10K was the appropriate resistor for the original blackhead carts, so when the conversion was made to the stereo redhead this resistor was changed. My question. Is - why 39K? > > I know that the redhead expects a 47K resistor. I’ve seen multiple posts suggesting that when using a stereo cart wired in parallel that this resistance should be doubled - or perhaps even a bit more. I would have thought that the resistor should be changed to the equivalent of two 47K resistors in parallel (47K/2). Agree? > > Anyone have any insights why 39K? I changed it back to 10K because at the time I just thought it was a mistake and the output level dropped, which makes sense. I am thinking I should change it back but would really like to understand what value I should use. The mods were clearly made by someone who knew what they were doing, so I doubt the 39K was just a mistake.

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Stereo cart wired mono - what new impedance resistance?
by Steve Swaine 13 Feb '26

13 Feb '26

Hi Forum, My first juke restore was an M100C that had been modified with a G amp and a stereo redhead cart wired in parallel to feed the mono amp input. The amp had not been totally rebuilt but did have a few caps replaced (quite some time before). It also had the cartridge impedance resistor changed to 39K from the original 10K. I’ve since learned that the 10K was the appropriate resistor for the original blackhead carts, so when the conversion was made to the stereo redhead this resistor was changed. My question. Is - why 39K? I know that the redhead expects a 47K resistor. I’ve seen multiple posts suggesting that when using a stereo cart wired in parallel that this resistance should be doubled - or perhaps even a bit more. I would have thought that the resistor should be changed to the equivalent of two 47K resistors in parallel (47K/2). Agree? Anyone have any insights why 39K? I changed it back to 10K because at the time I just thought it was a mistake and the output level dropped, which makes sense. I am thinking I should change it back but would really like to understand what value I should use. The mods were clearly made by someone who knew what they were doing, so I doubt the 39K was just a mistake.

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