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Plays Slow When Cold - Seeburg & Bodine Motors - Ron Rich
by John Robertson 03 Sep '25

03 Sep '25

I was going through my files and found the following post from Ron on Jukebox-List many years ago - and I figured it was time to post it again for the younguns... ----------------------original posting---------------------- From: Ron Rich <ronnnrich(a)yahoo.com> To: jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com Subject: [Jukebox-list] Slow when cold Bodine motors The story from my good, but not too long memory goes like this-- Sometime in the mid 1960's Seeburg began getting complaints about the mech not wanting to play at 45rpm when cold. At first (I understand), they "ignored" the situation. At some point, it became apparent that this was beginning to affect sales. They then came out with an "un-official fix"--which was an electrical addition plus the suggestion that the motor be removed, cleaned and re-oiled with "Seeburg oil". The electrical portion was "un-official" as they knew it would not be able to be UL approved. (It was similar to Wes' earlier suggestion). As more and more complaints came in, they decided sometime around 1966, to do a "study of the problem". They requested that their distribs. send in any motor that was having problems. They also requested a few sample Bodine motors from older models--all the way back to the model B. They further "borrowed" a few mechs from distribs that were having this problem. Short ending--It was found that ALL Bodine motors, including early ones ran slower when "ice cold", this is not noticeable in the 45rpm units, as the slow-down is less then one rpm@ 45rpm, however in the units geared at 33, the torque produced by the motor, when "auto-speeded" to 45rpm is much less. Bodine, which had assured Seeburg that the motors would be OK if geared and autospeeded to 45, supposedly also did a "study". Their answer was a redesign of the motor, which was then marked with a stamp "Al" after the KCI 42 model number ( I was told, once again, "un-officially", that Bodine admitted that about one percent of their motors had a "production defect"). Seeburg then re-suggested that on any mech having this problem, ALL grease, especially "Lubriplate" and oil be removed. All "thrust bearing" adjustments were to be checked, and re adjusted to specs, if needed. A light coat of graphite grease (NOT "Lubriplate") was to be applied to the gears, and a re-oiling with only "Seeburg Oil". Plus, the motor was to be dis-assembled, cleaned and re-oiled with Seeburg Oil. They also added a 5k10w ww resistor to the circuit, when in the "play" mode ( I think this is shown on the LS-1 schematic on up--I know it's shown on the LS-3 schematic-up). The above, although I do live in "Kahl-lee-forn-nee-ya", ain't no "torro feces"--just how I remember it--Ron Rich Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spain protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Jukebox-list mailing list Jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list ------------------30--------------------- John :-#)# -- John's Jukes Ltd. 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out"

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Re: Rock Ola stepper return spring tensioning
by Tony Miklos 03 Sep '25

03 Sep '25

Yes I got it that you got it working, I was just trying to add a little more info, when working with nylon anyway. Some plastics shrink with heat and age, which could be why yours cracked (age). Anyway, good job on the fix! Also, some types of plastic can swell if oiled. Tony On 8/29/2025 8:34 AM, Nigel Pugh wrote: > This had split where it was fitted onto a metal shaft, and the split had > caused it to be wider/snugger than it should have, and some burring > around the split. I'm doubting whether it's actually nylon, it just > looks like some cheapo 1970s plastic. > As I've used this since the early 1990s pretty much daily, I can only > assume that the split has happened recently as the problems have only > occurred this year, and only noticeable when the solenoid has to punch > up a high number. Once it is stuck, yours stuffed for making more > wallbox selections until you manually reset it. > But now it's working fantastic again, and I've bought a parts stepper > too, just in case, as this certainly doesn't look like a part you could > easily make without a fair amount of hassle. > Nigel > > >> On 29 Aug 2025 at 12:47, Tony Miklos via Jukebox-list <jukebox- >> list(a)lists.netlojix.com <mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com>> wrote: >> >> The nylon does not get "waxy" when it swells, not that I have ever seen >> anyway. I just expands a little bit. Probably not enough to notice, but >> enough for snug fittings to bind. >> >> On 8/28/2025 9:15 AM, Nigel Pugh wrote: >> > Thanks Tony. The nylon luckily did not feel particularly waxy and seemed >> > to file well when spinning in the drill. I will check out the >> > lubrication. I've got a couple of other stepper manuals for Rowe and >> > Seeburg ones, somewhere in those it may say. >> > I've had it on all day and am confident it's not failed any selection. >> > Hopefully I can put this one to bed now. >> > Regards >> > Nigel >> > >> > >> >> On 28 Aug 2025 at 13:41, Tony Miklos via Jukebox-list <jukebox- >> >> list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>> wrote: >> >> >> >> Sounds great. Best to check the manual about lubrication. For example, >> >> on EM pinball machines with "steppers", the normal routine was to clean >> >> and re-grease the contacts/wipers. Although I use oil instead of grease. >> >> That's how I was taught, and it seems to work quite well. >> >> >> >> If you ever run into some nylon plastic that is swollen (it actually >> >> absorbs water!) when sand paper doesn't cut it, and a regular file is of >> >> little use, use this file. It works great on slippery nylon. >> >> https://www.baersupply.com/v2/wbsc/product/catalog/7367718 <https://www.baersupply.com/v2/wbsc/product/catalog/7367718> <https://www.baersupply.com/v2/wbsc/product/catalog/7367718> <https://www.baersupply.com/v2/wbsc/product/catalog/7367718>> >> >> I forgot where I bought mine, probably on Amazon. >> >> >> >> Tony >> >> >> >> On 8/28/2025 4:21 AM, Nigel Pugh wrote: >> >> > Right, always good to sleep on an issue and see if your brain throws up >> >> > another solution. >> >> > I dismantled the nylon stepper gear as it was pretty stiff in its >> >> > bushing. And there was the problem, the nylon shaft had a split and >> >> > consequently had expanded and was causing the stiffness. Spun it in the >> >> > drill with some fine sandpaper taking off the burr around the split and >> >> > it's running like a dream now. >> >> > Nigel >> >> > >> >> > >> >> >> On 28 Aug 2025 at 05:46, Nigel Pugh via Jukebox-list <jukebox- >> >> >> list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> <mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>>> wrote: >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> I'm not aware that lubricant should be used or not, I will look onto that. >> >> >> >> >> >> However, in this instance it won't be the cause of the problem as I can remove the paxolin disks completey to eliminate them and the problem still occurs. >> >> >> >> >> >> 1. Spring wound too tight - resets nicely but the solenoid can't advance it to the high numbers due to spring pressure. >> >> >> >> >> >> 2. Spring wound too loose - advances nicely but fails to always reset due to lack of spring pressure. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> So the question is how do I set the spring pressure correctly. There must be a "number of turns" as to how tight you wind it up. >> >> >> >> >> >> Nigel >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> >> >> > On 27 Aug 2025 at 22:23, Tony Miklos via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>>> wrote: >> >> >> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> > >> >> >> > On 8/27/2025 5:09 PM, Nigel Pugh via Jukebox-list wrote: >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> Recently having issues with my Rock Ola 470 stepper. I think the stepper is a 1768 or 1769. >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> The problem is when a high number is selected, upon reset, the number wiper sometimes remains there and doesn't reset back to it's starting position. >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> I've had this set up working fine for over 30 years. >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> Anyhow, I dismantle that part of the stepper and the spring that provides the return tension unwound itself, so I had to guess how many times to re wind it to tension it back up. >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> It's driving me nuts. Too much tension and the pecking solenoid doesn't have strength to push the gear. Too little tension and it doesn't return every time. There are no other issues, nothing tight or seized. >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> So my question is, is there a number of winds specified that you have to wind it up to? Instead of me guessing, which could take forever, is there a spec or instruction how to re tension it ? >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> Regards >> >> >> > > >> >> >> > >> Nigel, uk >> >> >> > >> >> >> > I don't know about that unit, but some similar units in other equipment >> >> >> > use lubricant on the wiper contacts. Should yours have it, and is it lubed? >> >> >> > >> >> >> > -- >> >> >> > Tony Miklos >> >> >> > Tony's Jukebox Repair >> >> >> > >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ >> >> >> > Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>> >> >> >> > To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>> >> >> >> > %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s >> >> >> > Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/ <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>>> >> >> >> > >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> >> Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>> >> >> >> To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>>> >> >> >> %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s >> >> >> Searchable Archives:http://jukebox.markmail.org/ <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Tony Miklos >> >> Tony's Jukebox Repair >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> >> >> To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> <lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com>> >> >> %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s >> >> Searchable Archives:http://jukebox.markmail.org/ <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>> >> >> >> >> -- >> Tony Miklos >> Tony's Jukebox Repair >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> >> To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com <lists.netlojix.com> >> %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s >> Searchable Archives:http://jukebox.markmail.org/ <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> >> -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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Rockola Nostalgia 1000 power switch replacement
by bpoldstyle＠yahoo.com 29 Aug '25

29 Aug '25

Hi, I'll be visiting a friend who has an issue with his Rockola Nostalgia cd jukebox. He claims that the power switch is a little "flaky". Sometimes he has to rock it back and forth numerous times to get it to turn on the jukebox. From what I've seen online it appears that the switch is built into the power supply....is that correct? Would I be able to bypass that switch and wire in a simple single-pole toggle switch for him? (online it looks like there are more than just two wires connected to the switch). Thank you, Bruce

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Seeburg cartridge holder
by Nigel Pugh 26 Aug '25

26 Aug '25

Hi all, For later stereo Seeburg cartridge with the yellow / green / purple shoe type styli, I am sure a few years back someone was selling the replacement holder assembly – the clip part where the cartridge pins sit in the tonearm, and the flat locator clips in the tonearm. I need to replace the one I have. I’m pretty certain it was Ron Rich that mentioned the new replacement part a good few years back. The older ones can get loose and troublesome even with the pin sleeves tight. Does anyone know it ? Thanks Nigel, UK

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Wurlitzer 530 amplifier Low Volume
by M De Simone 23 Aug '25

23 Aug '25

Another amplifier issue! A W530 that has been recapped and any out of tolerance resistors replaced. Tubes all check good. I’m getting about 50% to 60% of gain it should have. I’ve run some tests and found the DC voltages are all low at the tube pins by about 20%. I’ve checked anything I could think of but no luck. Looking for advice as Im not well versed enough to understand where the voltages come from. Can anyone tell me what exactly the 4 section electrolytic capacitor C34 does? I’m suspecting it, as I replaced C35 (the other one) but C34 tested perfect so I left it in, just for now. Any help appreciated, Mauro Sent from my iPhone

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780 Fuse blows
by ascott822＠aol.com 21 Aug '25

21 Aug '25

The amp was recapped two years ago and the box has been playing fine until recently. When there was no sound when recent selection was made then I checked the fuse. It was blown and continues to blow replacements. Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

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780 fuse blowing issue
by ascott822＠aol.com 20 Aug '25

20 Aug '25

Still trying to chase down the reason the amp fuse blows. I replaced the 5Z3 tube for the chance that it might have a short as was suggested. That wasn’t the cause. I removed all plugs into the amp and made selections and as I replaced one at a time as a process of elimination. The fuse only blows when the speaker is plugged in. Any help please. Thanks, Allen Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

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AMI F80 Hum problem
by Jamie McElroy 19 Aug '25

19 Aug '25

Can anyone help me with this please. In the video is my G80 with a rebuilt amplifier. It plays beautifully. However, the other cartridge a when plugged into the amplifier makes a continuous humming noise. It will play fine but still hums. I cannot figure out why it continues to do this. Can you please help with this question. Thank you. IMG_4667.MOV <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N1Wo3b6o0sPdx98nQ8GGDPYtfcbPlPp-/view?usp=…>

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Wurlitzer 1100 not making selections - resolved
by wschaefer rileycopc.com 18 Aug '25

18 Aug '25

Hi Jim Dirksen and all, Thanks for the reply. I'll answer your questions to assist others who may have this issue in the future along with my successful fix. Yes, the selection light was lit. No action at all when a button was pressed. Pins were not moving. Mech motor was plugged in. I remembered that I had Harold Hagen's compilation of Wurlitzer tech tips so I took it out. In the Dr. Know It All Wurlitzer volume #1 reference book, page 67, there's an article titled "intermittent selections in Wurlitzer 1100". From the entire tech tip, here's what applied to my issue - "There are other switches in the selector coil circuit in the Coin Register Unit (grinder), so check them first: contacts 3 and 4 on the Timing Switch (activated by the cancel solenoid), and contacts 3 and 4 in the coin isolation relay. Make sure the contacts are clean and adjusted properly." Next, I went to my repair manual to see what a cancel solenoid looked like. From there, I saw the set of contacts actuated by the cancel solenoid. They appeared to be okay. Next I found what the coin isolation relay looked like and checked those related contacts. Well, I'll be..... one of the three sets of contacts was stuck together! I cut up a brown paper bag into a few little strips, sprayed the strips with contact cleaner, and cleaned all of the contacts in the coin register mechanism. I powered up the 1100 and voila, I was able to select tunes again. Grateful indeed. Bill Schaefer From: JIM & LAURIE DIRKSEN <dirksenj(a)bellsouth.net<mailto:dirksenj@bellsouth.net>> Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2025 3:58 PM To: Jukebox list (jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com<mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com>) <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com<mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com>> Cc: wschaefer rileycopc.com <wschaefer(a)rileycopc.com<mailto:wschaefer@rileycopc.com>> Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Wurlitzer 1100 not making selections Is the "make selection" light lit? Check the bulb. Do you hear a relay click or solenoid operate when you press a button? It's possible that selector pins are being selected, but the start micro switch is not starting the motor. Look at the rear of the pinbank to see if pins are moving. Be sure you didn't accidentally unplug the mech motor while poking around in there.

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Scan/Service switch for early Rowe Ami
by Nigel Pugh 17 Aug '25

17 Aug '25

Hi all, The group looks like it's gone very quiet, or I'm having an email problem - I need to replace the scan/service switch on a JAO Diplomat and found new 3 way double pole switches made by CRL that seem to be common with Fender guitar amps. Some of the original jukebox ones were made at the time by CRL too. Has anyone ever used one or do you think they would work ? The only think I can think of is that the jukebox versions did not lock in for the "Scan" position, you have to hold them down. I imagine as these were guitar amp switches all the positions locked in, but that's no big deal. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372877751680?_skw=crl+3+way+lever+switch&epid=11… Nigel, UK

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