February 2026 - Jukebox-list - lists.netlojix.com

Help picking new speaker
by Steve Swaine 24 Feb '26

24 Feb '26

Hi Forum, Well I’m working on my “new” Seeburg 200C and it looks like I need a new speaker as the original appears to be blown - getting lots of base distortion that I don’t hear at all when connected to a remote speaker. I’m not a speaker guy, so hoping to get some help. I’m fine buying a new speaker rather than gamble on a vintage one, but I want to be sure I’m not going to damage anything in my system and get something that will sound good. The 200C uses the HFA1-L6 amplifier rated at 20 watts. The load impedance is “8 or 16 ohms” and the output voltage is “16 volts at 16 ohm output socket”. The maximum output power is 27.5 watts at 400 CPS with 2.4 volts input. The manual stresses that the total power supplied to all the speakers must be between 5 watts and 20 watts. Again, not a speaker guy - I thought it was ok to use a higher wattage speaker than your amp wattage, but many on-line sources say that the speaker wattage really should not be more than the amp output - especially for tube amps. The speaker specs say: - Dual, coaxial, permanent magnet type - Low frequency unit - 12” direct radiator - High frequency unit - Pressure driver with multi-cellular horn - Impedance (complete system) - 16 ohms I see a lot of guitar speakers on line that are 16ohm and are 20-25 watts, but they don’t have a lot of range - not sure I need that much, but 5KHz (which seems typical) seems too low. I’d really appreciate some advice! Thanks!

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Connecting multiple Seeburg wall boxes
by M De Simone 24 Feb '26

24 Feb '26

Why can only 6 wallboxes be connected to each auxiliary power supply? I have a situation in a diner where they have wired 5 wallboxes together and another 10 together. They want to get it up and running but don’t want their walls torn up to figure out the wiring. Just curious as it’s probably done in case of 6 wallboxes being operated at the same time. This scenario is very unlikely in this case, so before moving forward with tearing up walls and fishing wire I thought I’d ask the group. Thanks, Mauro Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Help picking new speaker
by David Breneman 24 Feb '26

24 Feb '26

On Tuesday, February 24, 2026 at 08:15:40 AM PST, Steve Swaine <steveswaine100(a)gmail.com> wrote: > I have not tried that, but that’s a good thought. I have to find > something that has an external speaker connection. Any issues > connecting a 16ohm speaker to an 8 ohm system for a short test? Should not be a problem for testing. > I did try hooking up a 70 volt speaker I have to that output and it > sounded great, but appreciate that’s not a complete verification >that the speaker is bad. It sounds from your description that you connected the 70 volt speaker to the output for the cabinet speaker. The line going to the cabinet speaker is a regular 8 ohm connection, All (with usual disclaimers) 70 volt speakers are 8 ohms between the transformer and the speaker itself. Connecting that to the transformer of a 70 volt speaker will result in very low volume to that speaker. I'm guessing your speaker may have a loose internal connection to the voice coil, of that the cone is rubbing on something, but the best way to confirm that is to connect it to another amp and power it at the level at which is distorts and see what happens. > Any suggestions on speaker reconning sources? I will check > around locally (St Charles, St Louis Missouri), but suspect I’ll have to > send it somewhere. I'm sorry, I don't.

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Johnny Velchoff
by Tony Miklos 22 Feb '26

22 Feb '26

Does anyone have contact information for Johnny Velchoff? -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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Seeburg 222
by Jukebox Repairman 22 Feb '26

22 Feb '26

Years ago Ron Rich helped me with a 220 that was making a popping noise in the audio during scan. I'm having the same issue with a 222 and checked my notes but couldnt find what the resolve was. Anybody know what causes this? Its not the mute contacts. for some reason im thinking he said it was a cap but again i dont recall. Regards, Rick

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How to replace seeburg motor mounts
by Steve Swaine 19 Feb '26

19 Feb '26

Hi Forum, Looking for help in how to do this. There are many videos on replacing the coupling but not so much for the mounts. The old mount rings look to be pressure fit on the motor and I’m not sure the best way to get them off without damaging the motor (or myself). I’m also worried about how to get the new ones on safely. The idea of whomping my motor with a big hammer is scary. I’ve seen that some replacement motor mounts are sold as the rubber part only with the instructions to glue the new rubber to the original metal rings. But my replacements already have the rings and if there is a safe way to remove the original rings then I’d rather do that then try and get the new rings off the new rubber without damage and the trust my glue job to put them on the old rings. Thanks!

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Re: Stereo cart wired mono - what new,, impedance resistance?
by js＠cimmeri.com 18 Feb '26

18 Feb '26

> ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2026 16:04:13 +0000 (UTC) > From: David Breneman<david_breneman(a)yahoo.com> > Subject: [Jukebox-list] Re: Stereo cart wired mono - what new, > impedance resistance? > To: js--- via Jukebox-list<jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> > Message-ID:<1792891075.1306630.1771344253419(a)mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > > On Tuesday, February 17, 2026 at 07:53:39 AM PST, js--- via Jukebox-list<jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: > >> Surely you know what a brighter or bright top end is? > Yes, but the opposite of bright is usually dull, which was my guess. Never heard "dark." > That's why I wanted to make sure I understood what you meant. No offense intended. No offense taken. I just meant lowered high frequency content as opposite of "bright" or excessive high frequency content. So, in other words, a reduced amplitude of high frequencies, typically starting somewhere in the upper treble. Not a hard low-pass cutoff, but more like a gentle roll-off or loss of “air,” sparkle, and edge.

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Wurlitzer Mute Relay - German models, Niagra Baltic etc
by Iain Jamieson 17 Feb '26

17 Feb '26

Hi Everyone, I'm trying to find a mute relay for a German Wurlitzer. In this case a Baltic 3. Part number is 18010022. Flippers are out of stock - Anyone got one they would like to part with? Thanks Iain

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Re: Stereo cart wired mono - what new, impedance resistance?
by js cimmeri.com 17 Feb '26

17 Feb '26

Fill me in a little. Was the "redhead" a ceramic or magnetic cartridge? And the cartridge you're using now, is it ceramic or magnetic? Configuration :: Load seen by each coil Normal stereo :: 47kΩ Hard-tied mono :: 23.5kΩ Resistor summed ~47kΩ (proper) > On 02/14/2026 3:29 PM EST Steve Swaine <steveswaine100(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > Thanks! Yeah I saw that the redheads amps/preamps expect 47k, so was thinking for the stereo wired in parallel it should be half that. But I guess it’s just whatever sounds good? I did read that it’s important not to go too low (or let it drop to no load) or the cart can be damaged. Not sure if this is true. I’ll probably put it back to the 39K then. I recall it sounded fine - I just changed it because it was suggested that I restore it to what was in the schematic not appreciating that the stereo mod might make that not the best advice. > Thanks, > -steve. > > > > On Feb 14, 2026, at 1:31 PM, js--- via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: > > > > It's not a hypercritical value. Normally, you would get an idea of the value from the manufacture's suggestions in the little pamphlet that would accompany the cartridge (or the jukebox). > > > > Far more critical are the tone shaping circuits in the amp itself... which compensate for not only cartridge characteristics, but also record characteristics (with RIAA being one of them, after a certain date) and room characteristics (if the amp offers controls for that).

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Wurlitzer Early CD OMT
by Tony Miklos 16 Feb '26

16 Feb '26

Someone got to this before me. I have no idea what may have been wrong or what has been done, except this. The CD player acts like it's typical failure symptoms, but it tests good and a different known good one doesn't work. All the flaky BC337's (it's in the serial number range), they were all replaced with 2N2222's. But transistor Q15 was also replaced with a 2N2222 which is a BC327 NPN not a PNP BC337 Could that one transistor cause the cd player to not work? I'll install a replacement, but the juke is over an hour away, so I'd like some idea if that one transistor could have been the problem or if I'll have to dig deeper. -- Tony Miklos Tony's Jukebox Repair

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