- Jukebox-list - lists.netlojix.com

Server test
by Jay Hennigan 05 Feb '23

05 Feb '23

Testing migration. -- Jay Hennigan - jay(a)west.net Network Engineering - CCIE #7880 503 897-8550 - WB6RDV

1 0

Server migration test
by Jay Hennigan 05 Feb '23

05 Feb '23

Please ignore. -- Jay Hennigan - jay(a)west.net Network Engineering - CCIE #7880 503 897-8550 - WB6RDV

1 0

Migration test
by Jay Hennigan 05 Feb '23

05 Feb '23

Test 3 -- Jay Hennigan - jay(a)west.net Network Engineering - CCIE #7880 503 897-8550 - WB6RDV

1 0

Test of new server
by Jay Hennigan 05 Feb '23

05 Feb '23

Migration should be complete. Please advise me at jay(a)west.net of any issues. -- Jay Hennigan - jay(a)west.net Network Engineering - CCIE #7880 503 897-8550 - WB6RDV

1 0

Wurlitzer 532 hum revisited
by Carl Haines 01 Feb '23

01 Feb '23

Many years ago I had asked about a noticeable hum that from my W 532 amp. I checked out a few things but never resolved the hum problem. At the time I was new to tube amps and wasn't quite sure how much if any hum might be normal for these amps and just left it go thinking that some hum might be normal. Now that I have had experience with a couple more tube amps, I realize that the hum is not normal and have decided to dig in and try to resolve the hum problem. Symptom: Hum that does not change with the volume. Sounds like 60hz to me and not sine wave since it has bit of a buzz to it. I've narrowed it down to the circuit for the 6AU6. Hum goes away when the amp is muted. Removing the 6AN8 does not change the hum. Shorting the Aux Amp connection has no effect on the hum. Removing the remote volume plug has no effect on the hum. I did go through all the resistors that did not require flying a lead to verify their values. I did find a few that are marginally out of spec reading approx. 10% too high (R34, R36, R37). Replacements are on order, but I am not convinced these are the culprit, but my plan is to replace them to be sure. I think this is a case where I wish I had an oscilloscope to probe around to see if I can narrow down the source of the hum. I verified all the grounds for this circuit and tried swapping out the tube. My next plan is to go back and check the B+ and then check all the component values and connections for this circuit. Since these are all on the PCB, I can't imagine there being not being connected correctly but who knows. Am I missing anything obvious? Carl Haines

2 1

Re: [Jukebox-list] Seeburg LS-1 warble
by Kent Z 31 Jan '23

31 Jan '23

Other parts to check via Ron was secure clamping of the record. Clamp arm spring and center pin entering TT with no resistance when clamping record. Motor coupler and oiling motor with his favorite ND 20 wt oil thru all of the drive train. It didn’t have a motor support plug but added one. I would at least check the bearing for no flat spots and screw condition even if u have no play In TT. Kent Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

1 0

Re: [Jukebox-list] Wurlitzer 3300 Low Volume
by Donald Whiting 31 Jan '23

31 Jan '23

A quick update thank you Rob for the detailed instructions very helpful. I replaced the Cartridge with the NOS one from eBay it sounds fantastic! I did replace the Sapphire needle that came with the cart it for a new diamond needle. I did have to make a small adjustment to the trip switch but other than that good to go. This was for an elderly couple both in their 80’s and they were thrilled to hear it playing again. Regards Don On Sat, Jan 28, 2023 at 5:17 PM Donald Whiting <pinplayers(a)gmail.com> wrote: > Rob thanks for the detailed instructions it’s just what I needed. I > removed the arm and ended up bringing it back to my shop to solder the > wires to the new cart connectors as they were a bit different. The cart I > purchased off eBay looks to be like new and included an original Safire > needle o e side for 78 the other for 45. > > Here the link: > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/295457104166?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-235… > > Don > > On Wed, Jan 25, 2023 at 11:15 AM Chan Gade <chan.gade(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > >> >> I think the question here is how to work on fitting the new cart into the >> arm…Right? >> >> The arm is removed from the machine by doing the following: >> >> Remove the plug coming from the cart into a receptacle in back of the >> arch. >> >> Remove the two screws holding the arm assembly (be careful not to drop >> them into the mech). >> >> Work the arm free of the trip switch and lift lever. You’ll all the >> easily and it really is simple once you look at it. >> >> Whatever new cart you use will probably require some rebalancing of the >> arm. There is an adjustable counterweight for this in the tail of the arm. >> When I installed a magnetic cart in these mechs I had to add some extra >> counterweight. I simply glued a bolt in a pocket in the tail of the arm and >> that brought things back into range for proper balance. >> >> On these later mechs, the trip switch can be adjusted so that it doesn’t >> load the arm till the very end of the record, often just past the playing >> grooves. >> >> Balancing can be tricky since the wires will slightly affect the setting. >> Wurlitzer recommends doing it with arm in mech and in play mode with a >> piece of thread holding the arm away from the stripper plate (the fan >> shaped plastic).The thread would be around the arm and the smaller arm that >> holds the pressure spring. >> >> The setdown point will probably need adjusting. This is done with the >> screw at top of the guide fork. You’ll see that easily. >> >> Depending on the cart you use it –may—be necessary to bend the brush arm >> or even slightly cut away some bristles to get proper brush contact with >> just the stylus. >> >> All this reads as more complicated than it will be once you are looking >> at it, so don’t get discouraged by my longwinded description. I’ve worked >> on over 60 of these mechs and converted at least 18 to magnetic carts, >> including me own: >> >> 1700 >> 1800 (3)Two conv. mag. >> 2100 -Wico'd titleboard >> 2150 >> 2304 (Stereo converted) >> 2300 (orig stereo) >> 2300 (Stereo converted FrankenJuke: 3100 Mech and elect.) >> 2300 Kept mono amp, conv. mag pickup. >> 2400 (mono w/mag conv.) >> 2400 (Stereo mag conv.) >> 2600 (Mag conv.) >> 2710 (100 sel) >> 2810 >> 2900 >> 3000 >> 3110 (100 sel) >> 3200 >> >> Personally, I like the wurlitzer carousel mech. They must be well oiled >> and the record lift springs should be weakened (I can describe). But >> overall, it was a good mech and Wurlitzer best. >> >> RobNYC >> >> >>

1 0

Re: [Jukebox-list] Seeburg LS-1 warble
by Kent Z 30 Jan '23

30 Jan '23

2 yrs ago I worked on my neighbors USC-1. His band The Mystics had a hit song “Hushabye” . After recapping this juke his record sounded terrible (wavering). Other records not as noticeable. With Ron R’s help I tried many fixes. Nothing helped until he said try to see if the TT thrust is correct with .003” play. Mine had at least 1/8” and would not adj with thrust screw adj. The adj screw was hollowed out on the end from wear. Replacing screw and adj fixed the wavering problem. I had to buy 25 screws, so if anyone needs 1 let me know. Kent Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

2 1

Selection Issue On TSU5 After Replacing TJU with RCSU
by Jerold Kress 28 Jan '23

28 Jan '23

Issue: The mechanism picks up and plays the first record (R8) no matter what selection is made. Also, while scanning and a selection is made, the mechanism immediately plays what ever record it's near. The jukebox was selecting fine. The issue appeared after I replaced the TJU3 with a RCSU3 and hooked up a wallbox. Using the wallbox to select a record exhibited the above issue. I then reversed my work, replacing the RSCU3 with the original TJU3 but the jukebox continues to exhibit the selection issue described above. I re-seated all the connectors with no improvement. I figured something happened when I replaced the TJU3 with the RCSU3 but have yet to figure it out. I have the manual and can start the trouble shooting guides but was hoping someone could deduce what happened between hooking up the RCSU and then reinstalling the original TJU3 in the TSU5. (Previous fix: replaced both AO2s, 6X4, 6X4 socket, C515, C514, R518). Thanks for any insight! jerold k

1 0

Re: [Jukebox-list] Seeburg LS-1 Warble
by Tony Miklos 28 Jan '23

28 Jan '23

On 1/1/2023 6:23 PM, Tony Miklos wrote: > Trying to narrow down this annoying warble sound. Does it on all > records but not always easy to hear. I only hear it in the vocals and > just on the A side. B sides are OK. The motor mounts are all nice > and soft as is the motor coupler. It does it at all volumes low or > high, low or high bass/treble. Can a failing motor drive cap cause > it? I know the motor cap is getting switched going from play to > select/scan mode, that difference is easy to hear from the motor. This machine is mine and although it's in nice condition, they are so ugly I might have to part it out. It got put aside but I have limited space for other machines in the shop so I'd like to sell it/get rid of it. I can't sell it with the warble. Any clues yet as to what is causing this? I didn't try changing the motor cap since it does it on only one side.

3 6

Replacement Caps In Seeburg RCSU3
by Jerold Kress 25 Jan '23

25 Jan '23

I’m about replace a couple original electrolytic caps in a Seeburg RCSU3 before hooking it up for the first time. Two of the caps are 25uf/50V. I have either 22uf/50V or 33uf/50V. Any suggestions of which would be a better replacement or should I seek out 25uf’s. Thanks.

3 3

Re: [Jukebox-list] AMI G sound quality with stereo records
by joeymcd 24 Jan '23

24 Jan '23

I am pretty sure the cartridge you have was used on the G200 and newer like H and I models. Not sure. I don't have those models or manuals for them. You would have to research that. F80 F120 and G80 G120 would use the GE RPX - 040 style. Thats the one I see in them and use. You need to diagnose your problem before wasting money on cartridges. Even the one you are using should make no difference and sound good. You need to check what I have listed at minimum. A good cartridge option is Shure M77 series. It will fit with minimal modifications. Don't solder the tonearm cable to the cartridge. use some adapters. Again, diagnose the problem first. Joey McDonald From: "Jamie McElroy" <jamie.mcelroy1(a)gmail.com> To: "joeymcd" <joeymcd(a)mymts.net> Sent: Monday, January 23, 2023 10:11:29 PM Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] AMI G sound quality with stereo records Also my cartridge is the GE RPJ-047 if that makes a difference when discussion alternative cartridge options. Thanks again. - Jamie On Mon, Jan 23, 2023 at 6:26 PM joeymcd < [ mailto:joeymcd@mymts.net | joeymcd(a)mymts.net ] > wrote: Could be many reasons. Have you checked the tracking weight? Tonearm height and level? What is the condtion of the records you are playing? What is the condition of the amplifier? I have had AMI F and G jukes for a long time and no issues using the stereo compliant stylus with the original GE cartridge. There are some cartridge options if your cartridge is not original. Also you can plug in an external turntable to the amplifier for sound diagnosis. Joey McDonald From: "Jamie McElroy" < [ mailto:jamie.mcelroy1@gmail.com | jamie.mcelroy1(a)gmail.com ] > To: "joeymcd" < [ mailto:joeymcd@mymts.net | joeymcd(a)mymts.net ] > Sent: Monday, January 23, 2023 5:11:33 PM Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Question Thank you Joey. I did purchase a new stylus from Needles for Jukeboxes and it was a .7 Mil needle. However it still does not play stereo records well at all. The volume and quality is far inferior compared to the 50's and 60's records. Thank you again. Jamie On Mon, Jan 23, 2023 at 3:10 PM joeymcd < [ mailto:joeymcd@mymts.net | joeymcd(a)mymts.net ] > wrote: BQ_BEGIN Do you have the original GE cartridge in there? If you do then you probably had a 1 mil stylus in there designed to play mono records. The size of the needle fits the size of the groove on mono records of the 50's and some early 60's records. If you replaced with the same one then that would explain why there is no change. Using a 1 mil stylus on stereo records of the early 60's and newer will damage the records. Stereo records are designed to be used with a .7 mil stylus that fits the groove. Using a 1 mil mono needles on stereo records will plow out the records grooves and cause damage. Alternatively using a .7 mil stereo stylus you can play mono and stereo records. I use a .7 mil stylus in my AMI F and G and it works well. Needles for jukeboxes sells the stereo .7 mil needle. Joey McDonald ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jamie McElroy via Jukebox-list" < [ mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com | jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com ] > To: "Jukebox mailing list" < [ mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com | jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com ] > Sent: Monday, January 23, 2023 6:35:12 AM Subject: [Jukebox-list] Question Hello all, I have an AMI G-80 and I recently replaced the original stylus with a new one. However, even before the change some records particularly mid to late 70's record as well as 80's records play at a low audio output. I have found some of these records do not play at the same audio strength as 50's and 60's records. Ami I doing something wrong or has anyone else noticed this with an older jukebox? Please give me your thoughts. Thank you Jamie _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list [ mailto:Jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com | Jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com ] [ http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list | http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list ] Searchable Archives: [ http://jukebox.markmail.org/ | http://jukebox.markmail.org/ ] BQ_END

2 1

Re: [Jukebox-list] AMI G sound quality with stereo records
by Nigel Pugh 24 Jan '23

24 Jan '23

Hi Jamie, Back to my original reply to you. I dont think you have a problem, unless the output of more modern records is seriously quiet that it's totally obvious. That is the way the records were made, coupled with your old cartridge, and the fact your machine doesn't have AVC to level the output of different records. I would advise upgrading your cartridge regardless. Shure M44C or Stanton 500, Stanton 400V3 or Pickering NP/AC. Regards Nigel > > On 24 Jan 2023 at 06:14, joeymcd via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: > > > I am pretty sure the cartridge you have was used on the G200 and newer like H and I models. > Not sure. I don't have those models or manuals for them. You would have to research that. > F80 F120 and G80 G120 would use the GE RPX - 040 style. Thats the one I see in them and use. > > You need to diagnose your problem before wasting money on cartridges. Even the one you are using > should make no difference and sound good. You need to check what I have listed at minimum. > > A good cartridge option is Shure M77 series. It will fit with minimal modifications. Don't solder the tonearm > cable to the cartridge. use some adapters. Again, diagnose the problem first. > > Joey McDonald > > > > > > From: "Jamie McElroy" <jamie.mcelroy1(a)gmail.com> > To: "joeymcd" <joeymcd(a)mymts.net> > Sent: Monday, January 23, 2023 10:11:29 PM > Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] AMI G sound quality with stereo records > > Also my cartridge is the GE RPJ-047 if that makes a difference when discussion alternative cartridge options. Thanks again. - Jamie > > On Mon, Jan 23, 2023 at 6:26 PM joeymcd < [ mailto:joeymcd@mymts.net | joeymcd(a)mymts.net ] > wrote: > > > > Could be many reasons. > Have you checked the tracking weight? > Tonearm height and level? > What is the condtion of the records you are playing? > What is the condition of the amplifier? > > I have had AMI F and G jukes for a long time and no issues using the stereo compliant > stylus with the original GE cartridge. > > There are some cartridge options if your cartridge is not original. > Also you can plug in an external turntable to the amplifier for sound diagnosis. > > Joey McDonald > > > > > > From: "Jamie McElroy" < [ mailto:jamie.mcelroy1@gmail.com | jamie.mcelroy1(a)gmail.com ] > > To: "joeymcd" < [ mailto:joeymcd@mymts.net | joeymcd(a)mymts.net ] > > Sent: Monday, January 23, 2023 5:11:33 PM > Subject: Re: [Jukebox-list] Question > > Thank you Joey. I did purchase a new stylus from Needles for Jukeboxes and it was a .7 Mil needle. However it still does not play stereo records well at all. The volume and quality is far inferior compared to the 50's and 60's records. Thank you again. > Jamie > > On Mon, Jan 23, 2023 at 3:10 PM joeymcd < [ mailto:joeymcd@mymts.net | joeymcd(a)mymts.net ] > wrote: > > BQ_BEGIN > Do you have the original GE cartridge in there? > If you do then you probably had a 1 mil stylus in there designed to play mono records. > The size of the needle fits the size of the groove on mono records of the 50's and some early 60's records. > If you replaced with the same one then that would explain why there is no change. > Using a 1 mil stylus on stereo records of the early 60's and newer will damage the records. > Stereo records are designed to be used with a .7 mil stylus that fits the groove. > Using a 1 mil mono needles on stereo records will plow out the records grooves and cause damage. > Alternatively using a .7 mil stereo stylus you can play mono and stereo records. > > I use a .7 mil stylus in my AMI F and G and it works well. > Needles for jukeboxes sells the stereo .7 mil needle. > > Joey McDonald > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jamie McElroy via Jukebox-list" < [ mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com | jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com ] > > To: "Jukebox mailing list" < [ mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com | jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com ] > > Sent: Monday, January 23, 2023 6:35:12 AM > Subject: [Jukebox-list] Question > > Hello all, > I have an AMI G-80 and I recently replaced the original stylus with a new > one. However, even before the change some records particularly mid to late > 70's record as well as 80's records play at a low audio output. I have > found some of these records do not play at the same audio strength as 50's > and 60's records. Ami I doing something wrong or has anyone else noticed > this with an older jukebox? Please give me your thoughts. Thank you > > Jamie > _______________________________________________ > Jukebox-list mailing list > [ mailto:Jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com | Jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com ] > [ http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list | http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list ] > Searchable Archives: [ http://jukebox.markmail.org/ | http://jukebox.markmail.org/ ] > > > > > BQ_END > > > _______________________________________________ > Jukebox-list mailing list > Jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com > http://lists.netlojix.com/mailman/listinfo/jukebox-list > Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/ >

1 0

Question
by Jamie McElroy 23 Jan '23

23 Jan '23

Hello all, I have an AMI G-80 and I recently replaced the original stylus with a new one. However, even before the change some records particularly mid to late 70's record as well as 80's records play at a low audio output. I have found some of these records do not play at the same audio strength as 50's and 60's records. Ami I doing something wrong or has anyone else noticed this with an older jukebox? Please give me your thoughts. Thank you Jamie

4 3

Rock Ola accu trac arm pivot friction
by Nigel Pugh 22 Jan '23

22 Jan '23

Can anyone tell me please is there a bearing in the bottom of the brass tone arm pivot ? I cant tell with a torch if it's actually a bearing or an indent ? The reason I ask is, I have 3 of these arms and each one seems to have the same problem, there is too much horizontal friction in that bearing and the stylus cantilever is pulling the arm, so when you watch it close up it looks like the cantilever is doing a little dance to the let and right. I'm experienced in tonearm setup and have ruled out everything other than friction in that shaft. 1. Pivot shaft flushed clean with IPA and lighter fuel, spotless 2. Tonearm cable removed completely 3. Trip switch removed 4. Tracking set with digital guage between 2 and 7 grams (Shure M44MR original cartridge) 5. This issue usually occurs when attempting to track a cartridge at the lighter end of it's spec, or with stiff tonearm cable 6. If I track at 7 grams it's ok, but that's definitely not right. Should be 3 to 5. 7. Tried with kiddie spring and also counterbalance 8. Used various new and used styli, M44C and domestic M44-7 I've got 7 jukeboxes and 8 turntables and by a long shot this arm has infinitely more friction than all of them. And all 3 variants of this arm do also, hence asking if there is or should be a bearing in the pivot. Or, is it just a really bad design ? Any ideas ? I've had this 470 for around 30 years and only discovered this when I realised the crappy arm spring had stretched over time and was tracking on the lightest setting at 7g. So I made a counterbalance and that's how it's come to light that the arm don't like tracking below 7g. It also sounds much better at 7g. Something isn't right so I'm looking for an outside of the box thought or a sensible modification. Maybe there's nothing wrong at all and it's just a rubbish design. I did think about dropping a bearing into the shaft but haven't got one to hand. Nigel, uk

3 4

1963 AMI ROVE JEL 200 TURNTABLE PROBLEM + INFO
by angkor3 20 Jan '23

20 Jan '23

Hi everybody! I need your help because I have a problem. I just started the restoration of an Ami Rowe JEL200. I have bought it perfectly working last summer but it has been sitting until last week because I was restoring another jukebox. Last week I decided to play a few records to check if everything was ok but it wasn't. I try to explain the problem as clearly as I can since my first language is not English. The mechanism works, the turntable turns but it plays the record very slowly (constant but slow). It gives me the idea that the Automix doesn't work anymore and that it is playing records like they all are 33 and not 45 RPM. Can this be the problem? Or what else? What do I have to check? I'd also like to know which are the correct color patterns for cabinet and painted metal parts in the font panel: online I have seen so many different combinations (some cabinets are in two colous, other just one; metal panels too and also the mech/turntable cover/tray are of various colours!). Thank you for your help and have a good day! Emanuel

2 1

AMI G-80 Popping Sound
by Jamie McElroy 19 Jan '23

19 Jan '23

Hello all, I wonder if anyone can answer this question? On my AMI G-80, after a record plays, the tone arm lifts up and just a second before the record gripper picks up the record to place it back in the record rack, there is a loud "pop" sound from the speaker as if you scraped your finger over the needle really hard. But it's not a scratch sound, it's a popping sound when the tone arm lifts itself from the record. It must be the sound of the tone arm hitting the switch underneath the turntable cover to tell the record to be picked up but it reverberates through the speaker as a popping sound. Is anyone familiar with this and know how to eliminate it? Thank you for your help. Jamie

3 3

TESTING VOLTAGE TO OA2s in Seeburg TSU5
by Jerold Kress 19 Jan '23

19 Jan '23

Jay, Where am I testing for the 150V on the OA2's? From a pin to ground or across two pins? --jerold k

3 2

Update To Seeburg TUS5 Blowing Caps
by Jerold Kress 18 Jan '23

18 Jan '23

Jay Hennigan was correct, pins 6 & 7 on the 6X4 tube socket were shorting. I replaced the socket and C514 is now stable. However, one of the OA2 tubes glows bright blue at the base when I turn on the unit as if the tube is shorting. The issue follows the tube when I switch the OA2's. Has anyone seen this issue on an OA2? I'm assuming I need to replace both tubes before I put the TSU back in the jukebox. Thanks --jerold k

2 1

Update to Seeburg TSU5 Blowing Cap Issue
by Jerold Kress 17 Jan '23

17 Jan '23

I found no shorts to ground that aren't supposed to be grounded, both with tubes & pulse amp in and out. All electrolytics are in the correct configuration. Questions: can I power up the TSU5 without C514 to test if any AC voltage is reaching it? Can I power up the TSU without the other juke connectors plugged into it? Hoping to obtain a new 6X4 & C514 cap today for retesting. Any suggestions or comments greatly appreciated. Here's a link to photos of the wiring with C514 currently removed. https://photos.app.goo.gl/5Bp27qTEeipyfni28

3 2

Rowe Ami Encore cd display unit broken
by Henrik Niinimäki 17 Jan '23

17 Jan '23

Rowe Encore's display is completely dark. How to start fix that?

3 3

AMI Continental 2 Microtecnica bias spring
by Federico Croci 17 Jan '23

17 Jan '23

Hello everyone! I'm working on a Conti2, italian Microtecnica version. I installed a new Audio Technica Stilo (Atn3600l), but I still have some trouble playing some 45s, towards the end of the records, when the tone arm begins to push on the switch for the end of the record. The reset microswitch it's the original one, maybe it could be changed with some other model...? Also, the Microtecnica version it's missing the bias spring I can see in the Conti2 manual. Just wondering if someone has a full kit to sell (I'm missing everything, the orange metal support part, as well as the spring itself), or if it can be bought somewhere. Thanks! -- Federico Croci wiz(a)tilt.it www.tilt.it

3 4

seeburg hf100r motor noise
by Lore Gianno 16 Jan '23

16 Jan '23

Hello, I own a working seeburg 100R. I have always used it as it is (I seldom use it) but now I'm trying to fix all the things that are not really well tuned. One thing is that playing side A of a disc the mech-motor is really quite, while playing side B from the motor-gears "area" there is much more noise. I tried to understand where the noise exactly comes from but it is quite impossible to understand. As you will see the noise is generated only after a disc of side B is put into play position. I uploaded a video, maybe gives some clues to experienced people like you in order to bring me some goos suggestions! Here the video link: https://youtube.com/shorts/hZVCpzK66gs?feature=share Thanks in advance Lore

2 1

FOLLOW UP TO SEEBURG TSU5 ISSUE
by Jerold Kress 15 Jan '23

15 Jan '23

It was suggested I test DC voltages to both C514 & 515 as well as pull the 6X4 and test the AC coming in. 80VDC on C514. 69VDC on C515. C514 was heating up with these tests so I switched off the machine as soon as I could read the voltage. With the 6X4 pulled I next tested 313VAC coming from the transformer to pin 7 of the 6X4 socket but then something unexpected happened: C514 blew. There should have been no voltage reaching either cap with the tube pulled. This suggests a short somewhere but I can't visually see any short. How else would voltage reach the caps? I'm replacing both caps & getting a new 6X4 next week but I don't see this solving the problem if the cap blows with the tube out. Any ideas or suggestions welcomed. jerold k

3 2

FOLLOW UP TO SEEBURG TSU5 ISSUE
by Jerold Kress 15 Jan '23

15 Jan '23

This is a follow up to my previous posting about issues with my Seeburg TSU5. I've isolated the problem to C514 over heating but so far have not determined the cause. I replaced C514 & C515 and R518 that bridges their negative ends. (I tested the caps to be sure they weren't shorted & the resistor's value is good.) C514 is connected to the -400V side of the 6X4 rectifier tube. I know this is a positive ground system so I was careful to replace the caps in their proper configuration, with both pos ends soldered to ground. I've switched out the 6X4 with 3 working replacements (all from working guitar amps) but C514 continues to overheat. (I shut down the system after a few seconds but in that time C514 is warm to hot.) I can test the voltage reaching this cap if that info will help in a diagnosis. Any insight into why this cap is overheating so quickly would be appreciated. Thanks! jerold k

4 3

2025

2024

2023

Jukebox-list