Hi, All:
I have not been on here in a long time. My bad back and old age have made me give up the jukes and pinballs. That said, one of my customers is a golf buddy, and he wouldn't take "no" for an answer. Last week he came with his grandsons and dropped off his Rockola 418 with a strange problem.
It might play 10 records just fine. Then it will place a record on the turntable, set down the tone arm and blow the 28V supply fuse. It does it in that exact same place in the cycle every time it does it. It took me a while to remember that, several years ago it did this same thing. At that time, Ron, God rest his soul, advised me to check the 3 cam switches. One of them was, in fact intermittent, and I replaced all 3 with higher current rating switches.
I have replaced the 28V supply 1.6A slo blo with a 2 amp circuit breaker to save money on fuses. Unplugging the AMP chassis does not clear the problem. If I unplug the Phono Power plug from the power supply, I can reset the breaker and it won't trip again, so I presume the short is in the phono wiring somewhere.
I have it in fail mode right now. It would seem I have a short somewhere on this 28v line. I would like to just cave man troubleshoot it by unhooking wires until the short goes away, but to do this without a ton of work and agonizing twisting of my old spine, it would be nice to have a wiring diagram that shows the plugs and wire colors, so I can do that. The Victory Glass manual doesn't have a wiring diagram for it. Is any of you aware of a wiring diagram for this unit?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Best
Mike
Hi Mike,
I don't have a wiring diagram, but,
can you work out exactly what point the fuse blows ?
What I would do is unplug the gripper motor. Make a selection and when the selected record is at the top, rotate the gripper motor with the knurled nut on the bottom, with your fingers. It will take a while but at the point the fuse blows, stop, and you will be able to see just what switch has just been activated.
Does it do it on both A and B sides ? It could be a shorted pin reset coil, an issue with the resistor that is added to slow the gripper down as it approaches the turntable, cam switch issue, shorting record counter if it's an electronic one (can't remember that age of Rock Ola).
If when you do all this and it works perfectly, it could be a gripper motor issue but I doubt that.
Is it always on the same selection ?
Nigel, uk
On 14 Sept 2025 at 19:57, mboessen--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Hi, All:
I have not been on here in a long time. My bad back and old age have made me give up the jukes and pinballs. That said, one of my customers is a golf buddy, and he wouldn't take "no" for an answer. Last week he came with his grandsons and dropped off his Rockola 418 with a strange problem.
It might play 10 records just fine. Then it will place a record on the turntable, set down the tone arm and blow the 28V supply fuse. It does it in that exact same place in the cycle every time it does it. It took me a while to remember that, several years ago it did this same thing. At that time, Ron, God rest his soul, advised me to check the 3 cam switches. One of them was, in fact intermittent, and I replaced all 3 with higher current rating switches.
I have replaced the 28V supply 1.6A slo blo with a 2 amp circuit breaker to save money on fuses. Unplugging the AMP chassis does not clear the problem. If I unplug the Phono Power plug from the power supply, I can reset the breaker and it won't trip again, so I presume the short is in the phono wiring somewhere.
I have it in fail mode right now. It would seem I have a short somewhere on this 28v line. I would like to just cave man troubleshoot it by unhooking wires until the short goes away, but to do this without a ton of work and agonizing twisting of my old spine, it would be nice to have a wiring diagram that shows the plugs and wire colors, so I can do that. The Victory Glass manual doesn't have a wiring diagram for it. Is any of you aware of a wiring diagram for this unit?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Best
Mike _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
Hi, Nigel:
Nice to see a familiar name after several years!
By golly, you are right. After reading your post I got one of the neighbor kids to come down here and turn that gripper motor manually for me while I watched the cam switches. After about 6 cycles we determined that it was, in fact, only the B side, and it only happened after the Cam2 switch dropped into the detent. Consulting the diagram, that pointed to the B side selector lever reset coil. We rolled the selector to where I can get at that coil, but I ran out of time as I had to go watch the Kansas City Chiefs lose a heart breaker to the Philadelphia Eagles.
I believe my customer has a couple of those wiper arms at his place somewhere. Not sure if they are the right ones, but if they are, I can swipe a coil off one of those. The coil doesn't have the burned up look of the usual shorted coil, but they can fail other ways.
I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the tip!
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-14 14:18, Nigel Pugh wrote:
Hi Mike, I don't have a wiring diagram, but, can you work out exactly what point the fuse blows ? What I would do is unplug the gripper motor. Make a selection and when the selected record is at the top, rotate the gripper motor with the knurled nut on the bottom, with your fingers. It will take a while but at the point the fuse blows, stop, and you will be able to see just what switch has just been activated. Does it do it on both A and B sides ? It could be a shorted pin reset coil, an issue with the resistor that is added to slow the gripper down as it approaches the turntable, cam switch issue, shorting record counter if it's an electronic one (can't remember that age of Rock Ola). If when you do all this and it works perfectly, it could be a gripper motor issue but I doubt that. Is it always on the same selection ? Nigel, uk
On 14 Sept 2025 at 19:57, mboessen--- via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com [1]> wrote:
Hi, All:
I have not been on here in a long time. My bad back and old age have
made me give up the jukes and pinballs. That said, one of my customers is a golf buddy, and he wouldn't take "no" for an answer. Last week he came with his grandsons and dropped off his Rockola 418 with a strange problem.
It might play 10 records just fine. Then it will place a record on the turntable, set down the tone arm and blow the 28V supply fuse. It does it in that exact same place in the cycle every time it does it. It took me a while to remember that, several years ago it did this same thing. At that time, Ron, God rest his soul, advised me to check the 3 cam switches. One of them was, in fact intermittent, and I replaced all 3 with higher current rating switches.
I have replaced the 28V supply 1.6A slo blo with a 2 amp circuit breaker to save money on fuses. Unplugging the AMP chassis does not clear the problem. If I unplug the Phono Power plug from the power supply, I can reset the breaker and it won't trip again, so I presume the short is in the phono wiring somewhere.
I have it in fail mode right now. It would seem I have a short somewhere on this 28v line. I would like to just cave man troubleshoot it by unhooking wires until the short goes away, but to do this without a ton of work and agonizing twisting of my old spine, it would be nice to have a wiring diagram that shows the plugs and wire colors, so I can do that. The Victory Glass manual doesn't have a wiring diagram for it. Is any of you aware of a wiring diagram for this unit?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Best
Mike _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmailorg/
Links:
[1] mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com
No problem Mike, glad you are almost there with fixing it.
You could measure the resistance across both coils and compare, or desolder one wire from the suspect one and they again to see if the fuse blows.
Last year I replaced one of those coils on a Princess, and I sourced my replacement off a much newer model that had the blue plastic bracket around the coils. Once removed, the coil was the same and fitted the old mechanism fine.
Regards
Nigel
On 15 Sept 2025 at 01:12, mboessen mboessen@ktis.net wrote:
Hi, Nigel:
Nice to see a familiar name after several years!
By golly, you are right. After reading your post I got one of the neighbor kids to come down here and turn that gripper motor manually for me while I watched the cam switches. After about 6 cycles we determined that it was, in fact, only the B side, and it only happened after the Cam2 switch dropped into the detent. Consulting the diagram, that pointed to the B side selector lever reset coil. We rolled the selector to where I can get at that coil, but I ran out of time as I had to go watch the Kansas City Chiefs lose a heart breaker to the Philadelphia Eagles.
I believe my customer has a couple of those wiper arms at his place somewhere. Not sure if they are the right ones, but if they are, I can swipe a coil off one of those. The coil doesn't have the burned up look of the usual shorted coil, but they can fail other ways.
I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the tip!
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-14 14:18, Nigel Pugh wrote:
Hi Mike, I don't have a wiring diagram, but, can you work out exactly what point the fuse blows ? What I would do is unplug the gripper motor. Make a selection and when the selected record is at the top, rotate the gripper motor with the knurled nut on the bottom, with your fingers. It will take a while but at the point the fuse blows, stop, and you will be able to see just what switch has just been activated. Does it do it on both A and B sides ? It could be a shorted pin reset coil, an issue with the resistor that is added to slow the gripper down as it approaches the turntable, cam switch issue, shorting record counter if it's an electronic one (can't remember that age of Rock Ola). If when you do all this and it works perfectly, it could be a gripper motor issue but I doubt that. Is it always on the same selection ? Nigel, uk
On 14 Sept 2025 at 19:57, mboessen--- via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com [1]> wrote:
Hi, All:
I have not been on here in a long time. My bad back and old age have
made me give up the jukes and pinballs. That said, one of my customers is a golf buddy, and he wouldn't take "no" for an answer. Last week he came with his grandsons and dropped off his Rockola 418 with a strange problem.
It might play 10 records just fine. Then it will place a record on the turntable, set down the tone arm and blow the 28V supply fuse. It does it in that exact same place in the cycle every time it does it. It took me a while to remember that, several years ago it did this same thing. At that time, Ron, God rest his soul, advised me to check the 3 cam switches. One of them was, in fact intermittent, and I replaced all 3 with higher current rating switches.
I have replaced the 28V supply 1.6A slo blo with a 2 amp circuit breaker to save money on fuses. Unplugging the AMP chassis does not clear the problem. If I unplug the Phono Power plug from the power supply, I can reset the breaker and it won't trip again, so I presume the short is in the phono wiring somewhere.
I have it in fail mode right now. It would seem I have a short somewhere on this 28v line. I would like to just cave man troubleshoot it by unhooking wires until the short goes away, but to do this without a ton of work and agonizing twisting of my old spine, it would be nice to have a wiring diagram that shows the plugs and wire colors, so I can do that. The Victory Glass manual doesn't have a wiring diagram for it. Is any of you aware of a wiring diagram for this unit?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Best
Mike _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmailorg/
Links:
[1] mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com
Hi, Nigel:
Got home with the parts from Carl. The wiper arm was different, but the coil is correct. I think it is not the B side coil as I said previously. I think it is the A coil. I got that installed and the juke works fine. Doesn't trip the breaker any more. Just out of dumb luck, however, I happened to play a record where that wiper arm was in the front, and fortunately noticed something. That reset lever was still being held in. After a minute or two I put my finger on that new coil and it was starting to get warm. I switched the scan/operate switch to off and it dropped out. Then I switched it back to "operate". The lever did not pull back in and the coil is staying cool. When I play a B side record, that coil does not stay energized.
Do you have any idea why that coil is staying energized? I'm looking at the schematic, and can't figure it out. I've attached a scan of the relevant sequence page, and a picture of the coil, in case any of that helps.
Heading up to the house. My Sweetheart just radioed down that supper is ready.
Sure hope you or someone has a good idea....
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-15 02:31, Nigel Pugh wrote:
No problem Mike, glad you are almost there with fixing it. You could measure the resistance across both coils and compare, or desolder one wire from the suspect one and they again to see if the fuse blows. Last year I replaced one of those coils on a Princess, and I sourced my replacement off a much newer model that had the blue plastic bracket around the coils. Once removed, the coil was the same and fitted the old mechanism fine Regards Nigel
On 15 Sept 2025 at 01:12, mboessen <mboessen@ktis.net [1]> wrote:
Hi, Nigel:
Nice to see a familiar name after several years!
By golly, you are right. After reading your post I got one of the neighbor kids to come down here and turn that gripper motor manually for me while I watched the cam switches. After about 6 cycles we determined that it was, in fact, only the B side, and it only happened after the Cam2 switch dropped into the detent. Consulting the diagram, that pointed to the B side selector lever reset coil. We rolled the selector to where I can get at that coil, but I ran out of time as I had to go watch the Kansas City Chiefs lose a heart breaker to the Philadelphia Eagles.
I believe my customer has a couple of those wiper arms at his place somewhere. Not sure if they are the right ones, but if they are, I can swipe a coil off one of those. The coil doesn't have the burned up look of the usual shorted coil, but they can fail other ways.
I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the tip!
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-14 14:18, Nigel Pugh wrote:
Hi Mike, I don't have a wiring diagram, but, can you work out exactly what point the fuse blows ? What I would do is unplug the gripper motor. Make a selection and when the selected record is at the top, rotate the gripper motor with
the
knurled nut on the bottom, with your fingers. It will take a while
but at the point the fuse blows, stop, and you will be able to see
just
what switch has just been activated. Does it do it on both A and B sides ? It could be a shorted pin
reset
coil, an issue with the resistor that is added to slow the gripper down as it approaches the turntable, cam switch issue, shorting record counter if it's an electronic one (can't remember that age of Rock Ola). If when you do all this and it works perfectly, it could be a
gripper
motor issue but I doubt that. Is it always on the same selection ? Nigel, uk
On 14 Sept 2025 at 19:57, mboessen--- via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com [1]> wrote:
Hi, All:
I have not been on here in a long time. My bad back and old age
have
made me give up the jukes and pinballs. That said, one of my customers is a golf buddy, and he wouldn't take "no" for an answer. Last
week
he came with his grandsons and dropped off his Rockola 418 with a strange problem.
It might play 10 records just fine. Then it will place a record
on
the turntable, set down the tone arm and blow the 28V supply fuse. It does it in that exact same place in the cycle every time it does it.
It
took me a while to remember that, several years ago it did this same thing. At that time, Ron, God rest his soul, advised me to check the 3
cam
switches. One of them was, in fact intermittent, and I replaced
all
3 with higher current rating switches.
I have replaced the 28V supply 1.6A slo blo with a 2 amp circuit breaker to save money on fuses. Unplugging the AMP chassis does
not
clear the problem. If I unplug the Phono Power plug from the
power
supply, I can reset the breaker and it won't trip again, so I presume the short is in the phono wiring somewhere.
I have it in fail mode right now. It would seem I have a short somewhere on this 28v line. I would like to just cave man troubleshoot it by unhooking wires until the short goes away, but to do this without a ton of work and agonizing twisting of my old spine, it would be nice to have a wiring diagram that shows the plugs and wire colors, so
I
can do that. The Victory Glass manual doesn't have a wiring diagram
for
it. Is any of you aware of a wiring diagram for this unit?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Best
Mike _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@listsnetlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmailorg/
Links:
[1] mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com
Links:
[1] mailto:mboessen@ktis.net
Hi Mike I had exactly this many years ago on a repair.
I think the issue was one of the microswitches, but I will rack my brain during the day for more info. It wasn't an issue with the switch, I think it was badly adjusted so that it stuck on beyond the point where the cam released it.
Does your juke have the 3 big black microswitches? I think it was the middle one - the manual will tell you which is the coil reset one.
I will continue thinking though.
Regards
Nigel
On 16 Sept 2025 at 04:46, mboessen--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Hi, Nigel:
Got home with the parts from Carl. The wiper arm was different, but the coil is correct. I think it is not the B side coil as I said previously. I think it is the A coil. I got that installed and the juke works fine. Doesn't trip the breaker any more. Just out of dumb luck, however, I happened to play a record where that wiper arm was in the front, and fortunately noticed something. That reset lever was still being held in. After a minute or two I put my finger on that new coil and it was starting to get warm. I switched the scan/operate switch to off and it dropped out. Then I switched it back to "operate". The lever did not pull back in and the coil is staying cool. When I play a B side record, that coil does not stay energized.
Do you have any idea why that coil is staying energized? I'm looking at the schematic, and can't figure it out. I've attached a scan of the relevant sequence page, and a picture of the coil, in case any of that helps.
Heading up to the house. My Sweetheart just radioed down that supper is ready.
Sure hope you or someone has a good idea....
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-15 02:31, Nigel Pugh wrote:
No problem Mike, glad you are almost there with fixing it. You could measure the resistance across both coils and compare, or desolder one wire from the suspect one and they again to see if the fuse blows. Last year I replaced one of those coils on a Princess, and I sourced my replacement off a much newer model that had the blue plastic bracket around the coils. Once removed, the coil was the same and fitted the old mechanism fine Regards Nigel
On 15 Sept 2025 at 01:12, mboessen <mboessen@ktis.net [1]> wrote:
Hi, Nigel:
Nice to see a familiar name after several years!
By golly, you are right. After reading your post I got one of the neighbor kids to come down here and turn that gripper motor manually for me while I watched the cam switches. After about 6 cycles we determined that it was, in fact, only the B side, and it only happened after the Cam2 switch dropped into the detent. Consulting the diagram, that pointed to the B side selector lever reset coil. We rolled the selector to where I can get at that coil, but I ran out of time as I had to go watch the Kansas City Chiefs lose a heart breaker to the Philadelphia Eagles.
I believe my customer has a couple of those wiper arms at his place somewhere. Not sure if they are the right ones, but if they are, I can swipe a coil off one of those. The coil doesn't have the burned up look of the usual shorted coil, but they can fail other ways.
I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the tip!
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-14 14:18, Nigel Pugh wrote:
Hi Mike, I don't have a wiring diagram, but, can you work out exactly what point the fuse blows ? What I would do is unplug the gripper motor. Make a selection and when the selected record is at the top, rotate the gripper motor with
the
knurled nut on the bottom, with your fingers. It will take a while
but at the point the fuse blows, stop, and you will be able to see
just
what switch has just been activated. Does it do it on both A and B sides ? It could be a shorted pin
reset
coil, an issue with the resistor that is added to slow the gripper down as it approaches the turntable, cam switch issue, shorting record counter if it's an electronic one (can't remember that age of Rock Ola). If when you do all this and it works perfectly, it could be a
gripper
motor issue but I doubt that. Is it always on the same selection ? Nigel, uk
On 14 Sept 2025 at 19:57, mboessen--- via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com [1]> wrote:
Hi, All:
I have not been on here in a long time. My bad back and old age
have
made me give up the jukes and pinballs. That said, one of my customers is a golf buddy, and he wouldn't take "no" for an answer. Last
week
he came with his grandsons and dropped off his Rockola 418 with a strange problem.
It might play 10 records just fine. Then it will place a record
on
the turntable, set down the tone arm and blow the 28V supply fuse. It does it in that exact same place in the cycle every time it does it.
It
took me a while to remember that, several years ago it did this same thing. At that time, Ron, God rest his soul, advised me to check the 3
cam
switches. One of them was, in fact intermittent, and I replaced
all
3 with higher current rating switches.
I have replaced the 28V supply 1.6A slo blo with a 2 amp circuit breaker to save money on fuses. Unplugging the AMP chassis does
not
clear the problem. If I unplug the Phono Power plug from the
power
supply, I can reset the breaker and it won't trip again, so I presume the short is in the phono wiring somewhere.
I have it in fail mode right now. It would seem I have a short somewhere on this 28v line. I would like to just cave man troubleshoot it by unhooking wires until the short goes away, but to do this without a ton of work and agonizing twisting of my old spine, it would be nice to have a wiring diagram that shows the plugs and wire colors, so
I
can do that. The Victory Glass manual doesn't have a wiring diagram
for
it. Is any of you aware of a wiring diagram for this unit?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Best
Mike _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@listsnetlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmailorg/
Links:
[1] mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com
Links:
[1] mailto:mboessen@ktis.net
Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
Mike, find out which switch is the pin cancel one and check that the little pip doesn't get stuck in also check it releases. If it's the old school big black switches there is a metal bar that rides the cam with a nylon lock but on and a small hex adjuster in it. You may find that switch is activated and not released.
Nigel
On 16 Sept 2025 at 05:57, Nigel Pugh via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Hi Mike I had exactly this many years ago on a repair.
I think the issue was one of the microswitches, but I will rack my brain during the day for more info. It wasn't an issue with the switch, I think it was badly adjusted so that it stuck on beyond the point where the cam released it.
Does your juke have the 3 big black microswitches? I think it was the middle one - the manual will tell you which is the coil reset one.
I will continue thinking though.
Regards
Nigel
On 16 Sept 2025 at 04:46, mboessen--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Hi, Nigel:
Got home with the parts from Carl. The wiper arm was different, but the coil is correct. I think it is not the B side coil as I said previously. I think it is the A coil. I got that installed and the juke works fine. Doesn't trip the breaker any more. Just out of dumb luck, however, I happened to play a record where that wiper arm was in the front, and fortunately noticed something. That reset lever was still being held in. After a minute or two I put my finger on that new coil and it was starting to get warm. I switched the scan/operate switch to off and it dropped out. Then I switched it back to "operate". The lever did not pull back in and the coil is staying cool. When I play a B side record, that coil does not stay energized.
Do you have any idea why that coil is staying energized? I'm looking at the schematic, and can't figure it out. I've attached a scan of the relevant sequence page, and a picture of the coil, in case any of that helps.
Heading up to the house. My Sweetheart just radioed down that supper is ready.
Sure hope you or someone has a good idea....
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-15 02:31, Nigel Pugh wrote:
No problem Mike, glad you are almost there with fixing it. You could measure the resistance across both coils and compare, or desolder one wire from the suspect one and they again to see if the fuse blows. Last year I replaced one of those coils on a Princess, and I sourced my replacement off a much newer model that had the blue plastic bracket around the coils. Once removed, the coil was the same and fitted the old mechanism fine Regards Nigel
On 15 Sept 2025 at 01:12, mboessen <mboessen@ktis.net [1]> wrote:
Hi, Nigel:
Nice to see a familiar name after several years!
By golly, you are right. After reading your post I got one of the neighbor kids to come down here and turn that gripper motor manually for me while I watched the cam switches. After about 6 cycles we determined that it was, in fact, only the B side, and it only happened after the Cam2 switch dropped into the detent. Consulting the diagram, that pointed to the B side selector lever reset coil. We rolled the selector to where I can get at that coil, but I ran out of time as I had to go watch the Kansas City Chiefs lose a heart breaker to the Philadelphia Eagles.
I believe my customer has a couple of those wiper arms at his place somewhere. Not sure if they are the right ones, but if they are, I can swipe a coil off one of those. The coil doesn't have the burned up look of the usual shorted coil, but they can fail other ways.
I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the tip!
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-14 14:18, Nigel Pugh wrote:
Hi Mike, I don't have a wiring diagram, but, can you work out exactly what point the fuse blows ? What I would do is unplug the gripper motor. Make a selection and when the selected record is at the top, rotate the gripper motor with
the
knurled nut on the bottom, with your fingers. It will take a while
but at the point the fuse blows, stop, and you will be able to see
just
what switch has just been activated. Does it do it on both A and B sides ? It could be a shorted pin
reset
coil, an issue with the resistor that is added to slow the gripper down as it approaches the turntable, cam switch issue, shorting record counter if it's an electronic one (can't remember that age of Rock Ola). If when you do all this and it works perfectly, it could be a
gripper
motor issue but I doubt that. Is it always on the same selection ? Nigel, uk
On 14 Sept 2025 at 19:57, mboessen--- via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com [1]> wrote:
Hi, All:
I have not been on here in a long time. My bad back and old age
have
made me give up the jukes and pinballs. That said, one of my customers is a golf buddy, and he wouldn't take "no" for an answer. Last
week
he came with his grandsons and dropped off his Rockola 418 with a strange problem.
It might play 10 records just fine. Then it will place a record
on
the turntable, set down the tone arm and blow the 28V supply fuse. It does it in that exact same place in the cycle every time it does it.
It
took me a while to remember that, several years ago it did this same thing. At that time, Ron, God rest his soul, advised me to check the 3
cam
switches. One of them was, in fact intermittent, and I replaced
all
3 with higher current rating switches.
I have replaced the 28V supply 1.6A slo blo with a 2 amp circuit breaker to save money on fuses. Unplugging the AMP chassis does
not
clear the problem. If I unplug the Phono Power plug from the
power
supply, I can reset the breaker and it won't trip again, so I presume the short is in the phono wiring somewhere.
I have it in fail mode right now. It would seem I have a short somewhere on this 28v line. I would like to just cave man troubleshoot it by unhooking wires until the short goes away, but to do this without a ton of work and agonizing twisting of my old spine, it would be nice to have a wiring diagram that shows the plugs and wire colors, so
I
can do that. The Victory Glass manual doesn't have a wiring diagram
for
it. Is any of you aware of a wiring diagram for this unit?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Best
Mike _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@listsnetlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmailorg/
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Mike, find out which switch is the pin cancel one and check that the little pip doesn't get stuck in also check it releases. If it's the old school big black switches there is a metal bar that rides the cam with a nylon lock but on and a small hex adjuster in it. You may find that switch is activated and not released.
Nigel
On 16 Sept 2025 at 05:57, Nigel Pugh via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Hi Mike I had exactly this many years ago on a repair.
I think the issue was one of the microswitches, but I will rack my brain during the day for more info. It wasn't an issue with the switch, I think it was badly adjusted so that it stuck on beyond the point where the cam released it.
Does your juke have the 3 big black microswitches? I think it was the middle one - the manual will tell you which is the coil reset one.
I will continue thinking though.
Regards
Nigel
On 16 Sept 2025 at 04:46, mboessen--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Hi, Nigel:
Got home with the parts from Carl. The wiper arm was different, but the coil is correct. I think it is not the B side coil as I said previously. I think it is the A coil. I got that installed and the juke works fine. Doesn't trip the breaker any more. Just out of dumb luck, however, I happened to play a record where that wiper arm was in the front, and fortunately noticed something. That reset lever was still being held in. After a minute or two I put my finger on that new coil and it was starting to get warm. I switched the scan/operate switch to off and it dropped out. Then I switched it back to "operate". The lever did not pull back in and the coil is staying cool. When I play a B side record, that coil does not stay energized.
Do you have any idea why that coil is staying energized? I'm looking at the schematic, and can't figure it out. I've attached a scan of the relevant sequence page, and a picture of the coil, in case any of that helps.
Heading up to the house. My Sweetheart just radioed down that supper is ready.
Sure hope you or someone has a good idea....
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-15 02:31, Nigel Pugh wrote:
No problem Mike, glad you are almost there with fixing it. You could measure the resistance across both coils and compare, or desolder one wire from the suspect one and they again to see if the fuse blows. Last year I replaced one of those coils on a Princess, and I sourced my replacement off a much newer model that had the blue plastic bracket around the coils. Once removed, the coil was the same and fitted the old mechanism fine Regards Nigel
On 15 Sept 2025 at 01:12, mboessen <mboessen@ktis.net [1]> wrote:
Hi, Nigel:
Nice to see a familiar name after several years!
By golly, you are right. After reading your post I got one of the neighbor kids to come down here and turn that gripper motor manually for me while I watched the cam switches. After about 6 cycles we determined that it was, in fact, only the B side, and it only happened after the Cam2 switch dropped into the detent. Consulting the diagram, that pointed to the B side selector lever reset coil. We rolled the selector to where I can get at that coil, but I ran out of time as I had to go watch the Kansas City Chiefs lose a heart breaker to the Philadelphia Eagles.
I believe my customer has a couple of those wiper arms at his place somewhere. Not sure if they are the right ones, but if they are, I can swipe a coil off one of those. The coil doesn't have the burned up look of the usual shorted coil, but they can fail other ways.
I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the tip!
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-14 14:18, Nigel Pugh wrote:
Hi Mike, I don't have a wiring diagram, but, can you work out exactly what point the fuse blows ? What I would do is unplug the gripper motor. Make a selection and when the selected record is at the top, rotate the gripper motor with
the
knurled nut on the bottom, with your fingers. It will take a while
but at the point the fuse blows, stop, and you will be able to see
just
what switch has just been activated. Does it do it on both A and B sides ? It could be a shorted pin
reset
coil, an issue with the resistor that is added to slow the gripper down as it approaches the turntable, cam switch issue, shorting record counter if it's an electronic one (can't remember that age of Rock Ola). If when you do all this and it works perfectly, it could be a
gripper
motor issue but I doubt that. Is it always on the same selection ? Nigel, uk
On 14 Sept 2025 at 19:57, mboessen--- via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com [1]> wrote:
Hi, All:
I have not been on here in a long time. My bad back and old age
have
made me give up the jukes and pinballs. That said, one of my customers is a golf buddy, and he wouldn't take "no" for an answer. Last
week
he came with his grandsons and dropped off his Rockola 418 with a strange problem.
It might play 10 records just fine. Then it will place a record
on
the turntable, set down the tone arm and blow the 28V supply fuse. It does it in that exact same place in the cycle every time it does it.
It
took me a while to remember that, several years ago it did this same thing. At that time, Ron, God rest his soul, advised me to check the 3
cam
switches. One of them was, in fact intermittent, and I replaced
all
3 with higher current rating switches.
I have replaced the 28V supply 1.6A slo blo with a 2 amp circuit breaker to save money on fuses. Unplugging the AMP chassis does
not
clear the problem. If I unplug the Phono Power plug from the
power
supply, I can reset the breaker and it won't trip again, so I presume the short is in the phono wiring somewhere.
I have it in fail mode right now. It would seem I have a short somewhere on this 28v line. I would like to just cave man troubleshoot it by unhooking wires until the short goes away, but to do this without a ton of work and agonizing twisting of my old spine, it would be nice to have a wiring diagram that shows the plugs and wire colors, so
I
can do that. The Victory Glass manual doesn't have a wiring diagram
for
it. Is any of you aware of a wiring diagram for this unit?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Best
Mike _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@listsnetlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmailorg/
Links:
[1] mailto:jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com
Links:
[1] mailto:mboessen@ktis.net
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Hi, All:
BTW, this morning I noticed a ziplock bag in the bottom of the cabinet, underneath the coin slot door which my customer had put in there because he doesn't have the key to the lock. In that ziplock was the wiring diagram from Victory Glass that I was looking for earlier.
If anyone was trying to find one, as Rosanna Rosannadanna used to say, "never mind".
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-16 04:41, Nigel Pugh wrote:
Mike, find out which switch is the pin cancel one and check that the little pip doesn't get stuck in also check it releases. If it's the old school big black switches there is a metal bar that rides the cam with a nylon lock but on and a small hex adjuster in it. You may find that switch is activated and not released. Nigel
On 16 Sept 2025 at 05:57, Nigel Pugh via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com [1]> wrote:
Hi Mike I had exactly this many years ago on a repair.
I think the issue was one of the microswitches, but I will rack my brain during the day for more info. It wasn't an issue with the switch, I think it was badly adjusted so that it stuck on beyond the point where the cam released it.
Does your juke have the 3 big black microswitches? I think it was the middle one - the manual will tell you which is the coil reset one.
I will continue thinking though.
Regards
Nigel
On 16 Sept 2025 at 04:46, mboessen--- via Jukebox-list
jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Hi, Nigel:
Got home with the parts from Carl. The wiper arm was different,
but
the coil is correct. I think it is not the B side coil as I said previously. I think it is the A coil. I got that installed and the
juke works fine. Doesn't trip the breaker any more. Just out of
dumb
luck, however, I happened to play a record where that wiper arm
was in
the front, and fortunately noticed something. That reset lever was
still being held in. After a minute or two I put my finger on that
new
coil and it was starting to get warm. I switched the scan/operate switch to off and it dropped out. Then I switched it back to
"operate".
The lever did not pull back in and the coil is staying cool. When
I
play a B side record, that coil does not stay energized.
Do you have any idea why that coil is staying energized? I'm
looking
at the schematic, and can't figure it out. I've attached a scan of
the
relevant sequence page, and a picture of the coil, in case any of
that
helps.
Heading up to the house. My Sweetheart just radioed down that
supper
is ready.
Sure hope you or someone has a good idea....
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-15 02:31, Nigel Pugh wrote:
No problem Mike, glad you are almost there with fixing it. You could measure the resistance across both coils and compare,
or
desolder one wire from the suspect one and they again to see if
the
fuse blows. Last year I replaced one of those coils on a Princess, and I
sourced
my replacement off a much newer model that had the blue plastic bracket around the coils. Once removed, the coil was the same
and
fitted the old mechanism fine Regards Nigel
On 15 Sept 2025 at 01:12, mboessen <mboessen@ktis.net [1]>
wrote:
Hi, Nigel:
Nice to see a familiar name after several years!
By golly, you are right. After reading your post I got one of
the
neighbor kids to come down here and turn that gripper motor
manually
for me while I watched the cam switches. After about 6 cycles we determined that it was, in fact, only the B side, and it only happened
after
the Cam2 switch dropped into the detent. Consulting the diagram,
that
pointed to the B side selector lever reset coil. We rolled the selector to where I can get at that coil, but I ran out of time as I had
to
go watch the Kansas City Chiefs lose a heart breaker to the Philadelphia Eagles.
I believe my customer has a couple of those wiper arms at his
place
somewhere. Not sure if they are the right ones, but if they
are, I
can swipe a coil off one of those. The coil doesn't have the burned
up
look of the usual shorted coil, but they can fail other ways.
I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the tip!
Best
Mike
On 2025-09-14 14:18, Nigel Pugh wrote:
Hi Mike, I don't have a wiring diagram, but, can you work out exactly what point the fuse blows ? What I would do is unplug the gripper motor. Make a selection
and
when the selected record is at the top, rotate the gripper motor
with
the
knurled nut on the bottom, with your fingers. It will take a
while
but at the point the fuse blows, stop, and you will be able to see
just
what switch has just been activated. Does it do it on both A and B sides ? It could be a shorted
pin
reset
coil, an issue with the resistor that is added to slow the
gripper
down as it approaches the turntable, cam switch issue,
shorting
record counter if it's an electronic one (can't remember that age of
Rock
Ola). If when you do all this and it works perfectly, it could be a
gripper
motor issue but I doubt that. Is it always on the same selection ? Nigel, uk
> On 14 Sept 2025 at 19:57, mboessen--- via Jukebox-list > <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com [1]> wrote: > > Hi, All: > > I have not been on here in a long time. My bad back and old
age
have
> > made me give up the jukes and pinballs. That said, one of my > customers > is a golf buddy, and he wouldn't take "no" for an answer.
Last
week
> he > came with his grandsons and dropped off his Rockola 418 with
a
> strange > problem. > > It might play 10 records just fine. Then it will place a
record
on
> the > turntable, set down the tone arm and blow the 28V supply
fuse. It
> does > it in that exact same place in the cycle every time it does
it.
It
> took > me a while to remember that, several years ago it did this
same
> thing > At that time, Ron, God rest his soul, advised me to check the
3
cam
> switches. One of them was, in fact intermittent, and I
replaced
all
> 3 > with higher current rating switches. > > I have replaced the 28V supply 1.6A slo blo with a 2 amp
circuit
> breaker to save money on fuses. Unplugging the AMP chassis
does
not
> clear the problem. If I unplug the Phono Power plug from the
power
> supply, I can reset the breaker and it won't trip again, so I > presume > the short is in the phono wiring somewhere. > > I have it in fail mode right now. It would seem I have a
short
> somewhere on this 28v line. I would like to just cave man > troubleshoot > it by unhooking wires until the short goes away, but to do
this
> without > a ton of work and agonizing twisting of my old spine, it
would be
> nice > to have a wiring diagram that shows the plugs and wire
colors, so
I
> can > do that. The Victory Glass manual doesn't have a wiring
diagram
for
> it. > Is any of you aware of a wiring diagram for this unit? > > Thanks in advance for any help. > > Best > > Mike > _______________________________________________ > Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com > To unsubscribe send an email to > jukebox-list-leave@listsnetlojix.com > %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s > Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmailorg/
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