Fill me in a little. Was the "redhead" a ceramic or magnetic cartridge?
And the cartridge you're using now, is it ceramic or magnetic?
Configuration :: Load seen by each coil Normal stereo :: 47kΩ Hard-tied mono :: 23.5kΩ Resistor summed ~47kΩ (proper)
On 02/14/2026 3:29 PM EST Steve Swaine steveswaine100@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks! Yeah I saw that the redheads amps/preamps expect 47k, so was thinking for the stereo wired in parallel it should be half that. But I guess it’s just whatever sounds good? I did read that it’s important not to go too low (or let it drop to no load) or the cart can be damaged. Not sure if this is true. I’ll probably put it back to the 39K then. I recall it sounded fine - I just changed it because it was suggested that I restore it to what was in the schematic not appreciating that the stereo mod might make that not the best advice. Thanks, -steve.
On Feb 14, 2026, at 1:31 PM, js--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
It's not a hypercritical value. Normally, you would get an idea of the value from the manufacture's suggestions in the little pamphlet that would accompany the cartridge (or the jukebox).
Far more critical are the tone shaping circuits in the amp itself... which compensate for not only cartridge characteristics, but also record characteristics (with RIAA being one of them, after a certain date) and room characteristics (if the amp offers controls for that).
Both the mono and stereo redheads are magnetic carts (as is the blackhead). Can you elaborate a bit more please what you mean by hard ties and proper? Thanks! -steve.
On Feb 14, 2026, at 3:34 PM, js cimmeri.com via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Fill me in a little. Was the "redhead" a ceramic or magnetic cartridge?
And the cartridge you're using now, is it ceramic or magnetic?
Configuration :: Load seen by each coil Normal stereo :: 47kΩ Hard-tied mono :: 23.5kΩ Resistor summed ~47kΩ (proper)
On 02/14/2026 3:29 PM EST Steve Swaine steveswaine100@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks! Yeah I saw that the redheads amps/preamps expect 47k, so was thinking for the stereo wired in parallel it should be half that. But I guess it’s just whatever sounds good? I did read that it’s important not to go too low (or let it drop to no load) or the cart can be damaged. Not sure if this is true. I’ll probably put it back to the 39K then. I recall it sounded fine - I just changed it because it was suggested that I restore it to what was in the schematic not appreciating that the stereo mod might make that not the best advice. Thanks, -steve.
On Feb 14, 2026, at 1:31 PM, js--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
It's not a hypercritical value. Normally, you would get an idea of the value from the manufacture's suggestions in the little pamphlet that would accompany the cartridge (or the jukebox).
Far more critical are the tone shaping circuits in the amp itself... which compensate for not only cartridge characteristics, but also record characteristics (with RIAA being one of them, after a certain date) and room characteristics (if the amp offers controls for that).
Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
Ok, so for a moving-magnet cartridge, the load resistor dampens the inductance of the coil. Lowering the resistance dampens the high-frequency resonance more, which means slightly reduced output and a slightly darker top end.
Some cartridges are more sensitive to this than others.
So what should it see? Ideally, you want the mono-summed cartridge to still see 47kΩ total.
To do that, just as with audio cables, you don’t hard-tie the channels together.
Instead you sum them through resistors:
L ----[10k]---+ +---- mono out → 47k phono input R ----[10k]---+
Most people don't do this, but if you want to do it right, that's how you do it.
-J.
On 2/14/2026 6:42 PM, Steve Swaine wrote:
Both the mono and stereo redheads are magnetic carts (as is the blackhead). Can you elaborate a bit more please what you mean by hard ties and proper? Thanks! -steve.
On Feb 14, 2026, at 3:34 PM, js cimmeri.com via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Fill me in a little. Was the "redhead" a ceramic or magnetic cartridge?
And the cartridge you're using now, is it ceramic or magnetic?
Configuration :: Load seen by each coil Normal stereo :: 47kΩ Hard-tied mono :: 23.5kΩ Resistor summed ~47kΩ (proper)
Thanks! Yeah, if I do that then I’d have to wire up another line from the tonearm down to the amp, so I’ll probably fall into the “most people don’t do that” category - at least for now! But might consider if I get back in there for something else later.
So to be sure I got it - I would wire the each channel through a 10K and just leave the amp with a single 47k resistor to ground (replacing the original 10K that was there fo the original blackhead cart). Did I get that right?
Any advice for the next best alternative if I only mod the amp and not add the second stereo feed from the tonearm? Should I just go with the 39K that was there from the stereo mod?
Thanks, -steve.
On Feb 15, 2026, at 1:33 PM, js--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Ok, so for a moving-magnet cartridge, the load resistor dampens the inductance of the coil. Lowering the resistance dampens the high-frequency resonance more, which means slightly reduced output and a slightly darker top end.
Some cartridges are more sensitive to this than others.
So what should it see? Ideally, you want the mono-summed cartridge to still see 47kΩ total.
To do that, just as with audio cables, you don’t hard-tie the channels together.
Instead you sum them through resistors:
L ----[10k]---+ +---- mono out → 47k phono input R ----[10k]---+
Most people don't do this, but if you want to do it right, that's how you do it.
-J.
On 2/14/2026 6:42 PM, Steve Swaine wrote: Both the mono and stereo redheads are magnetic carts (as is the blackhead). Can you elaborate a bit more please what you mean by hard ties and proper? Thanks! -steve.
On Feb 14, 2026, at 3:34 PM, js cimmeri.com via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Fill me in a little. Was the "redhead" a ceramic or magnetic cartridge?
And the cartridge you're using now, is it ceramic or magnetic?
Configuration :: Load seen by each coil Normal stereo :: 47kΩ Hard-tied mono :: 23.5kΩ Resistor summed ~47kΩ (proper)
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You don't need another wire from the cart to the amp. Think "1/8W resistors" tied directly to cart and then to each other.. or mounted under the tonearm with 2 fine wires to the resistors, and original line from resistor network output. This can be done in a very compact way.. Someone might have an even better way to do it.
The amp should be at 47k, but 39k, makes no difference.
On 02/15/2026 2:58 PM EST Steve Swaine steveswaine100@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks! Yeah, if I do that then I’d have to wire up another line from the tonearm down to the amp, so I’ll probably fall into the “most people don’t do that” category - at least for now! But might consider if I get back in there for something else later.
So to be sure I got it - I would wire the each channel through a 10K and just leave the amp with a single 47k resistor to ground (replacing the original 10K that was there fo the original blackhead cart). Did I get that right?
Any advice for the next best alternative if I only mod the amp and not add the second stereo feed from the tonearm? Should I just go with the 39K that was there from the stereo mod?
Thanks, -steve.
On Feb 15, 2026, at 1:33 PM, js--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Ok, so for a moving-magnet cartridge, the load resistor dampens the inductance of the coil. Lowering the resistance dampens the high-frequency resonance more, which means slightly reduced output and a slightly darker top end.
Some cartridges are more sensitive to this than others.
So what should it see? Ideally, you want the mono-summed cartridge to still see 47kΩ total.
To do that, just as with audio cables, you don’t hard-tie the channels together.
Instead you sum them through resistors:
L ----[10k]---+ +---- mono out → 47k phono input R ----[10k]---+
Most people don't do this, but if you want to do it right, that's how you do it.
-J.
Gotcha. Yes - should be possible to come up with something that can attach near/at the mech solder joints that connect the tonearm wires to the amp cable. Thanks! -steve.
On Feb 15, 2026, at 2:54 PM, js cimmeri.com via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
You don't need another wire from the cart to the amp. Think "1/8W resistors" tied directly to cart and then to each other.. or mounted under the tonearm with 2 fine wires to the resistors, and original line from resistor network output. This can be done in a very compact way.. Someone might have an even better way to do it.
The amp should be at 47k, but 39k, makes no difference.
On 02/15/2026 2:58 PM EST Steve Swaine steveswaine100@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks! Yeah, if I do that then I’d have to wire up another line from the tonearm down to the amp, so I’ll probably fall into the “most people don’t do that” category - at least for now! But might consider if I get back in there for something else later.
So to be sure I got it - I would wire the each channel through a 10K and just leave the amp with a single 47k resistor to ground (replacing the original 10K that was there fo the original blackhead cart). Did I get that right?
Any advice for the next best alternative if I only mod the amp and not add the second stereo feed from the tonearm? Should I just go with the 39K that was there from the stereo mod?
Thanks, -steve.
On Feb 15, 2026, at 1:33 PM, js--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Ok, so for a moving-magnet cartridge, the load resistor dampens the inductance of the coil. Lowering the resistance dampens the high-frequency resonance more, which means slightly reduced output and a slightly darker top end.
Some cartridges are more sensitive to this than others.
So what should it see? Ideally, you want the mono-summed cartridge to still see 47kΩ total.
To do that, just as with audio cables, you don’t hard-tie the channels together.
Instead you sum them through resistors:
L ----[10k]---+ +---- mono out → 47k phono input R ----[10k]---+
Most people don't do this, but if you want to do it right, that's how you do it.
-J.
Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
Kinda hard to get excited about doing this now that the T-needles seem to be impossible to get. What are people doing about that? I saw that Victory is occasionally selling a new-build cart that can take the yellow needles, but you also have to add some sort of box between the tonearm and amp input (or replace the tube amp). Seems a bit Rube Goldbergesk. And who know how long the yellow needles will be around. I see you can’t buy the mono redhead stereo compliant needles either, so seems like there will be an awful lot of Seeburgs available cheep soon - just no easy way to play records on ‘em. Thanks, -steve.
On Feb 15, 2026, at 2:54 PM, js cimmeri.com via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
You don't need another wire from the cart to the amp. Think "1/8W resistors" tied directly to cart and then to each other.. or mounted under the tonearm with 2 fine wires to the resistors, and original line from resistor network output. This can be done in a very compact way.. Someone might have an even better way to do it.
The amp should be at 47k, but 39k, makes no difference.
On 02/15/2026 2:58 PM EST Steve Swaine steveswaine100@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks! Yeah, if I do that then I’d have to wire up another line from the tonearm down to the amp, so I’ll probably fall into the “most people don’t do that” category - at least for now! But might consider if I get back in there for something else later.
So to be sure I got it - I would wire the each channel through a 10K and just leave the amp with a single 47k resistor to ground (replacing the original 10K that was there fo the original blackhead cart). Did I get that right?
Any advice for the next best alternative if I only mod the amp and not add the second stereo feed from the tonearm? Should I just go with the 39K that was there from the stereo mod?
Thanks, -steve.
On Feb 15, 2026, at 1:33 PM, js--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Ok, so for a moving-magnet cartridge, the load resistor dampens the inductance of the coil. Lowering the resistance dampens the high-frequency resonance more, which means slightly reduced output and a slightly darker top end.
Some cartridges are more sensitive to this than others.
So what should it see? Ideally, you want the mono-summed cartridge to still see 47kΩ total.
To do that, just as with audio cables, you don’t hard-tie the channels together.
Instead you sum them through resistors:
L ----[10k]---+ +---- mono out → 47k phono input R ----[10k]---+
Most people don't do this, but if you want to do it right, that's how you do it.
-J.
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I haven't worked with Seeburgs yet (just Wurlitzer and AMI), but I'm sure there's solutions out there for alternate cartridges that use common stereo styli, just as I do on Wurlitzer and AMI. The same concepts would apply, unless you use a non-magnetic cartridge. Sounds like the Victory offering is non-magnetic.
On 2/15/2026 4:49 PM, Steve Swaine wrote:
Kinda hard to get excited about doing this now that the T-needles seem to be impossible to get. What are people doing about that? I saw that Victory is occasionally selling a new-build cart that can take the yellow needles, but you also have to add some sort of box between the tonearm and amp input (or replace the tube amp). Seems a bit Rube Goldbergesk. And who know how long the yellow needles will be around. I see you can’t buy the mono redhead stereo compliant needles either, so seems like there will be an awful lot of Seeburgs available cheep soon - just no easy way to play records on ‘em. Thanks, -steve.
Just to chime in, in response to Steve's posting also, I think the yellow needles will be around a long time. They served all the Seeburgs from the showcase onwards, lots of models, Sound leisure jukeboxes, and Associated Leisure ones in the UK. Sound leisure make a current vinyl model and I think that uses them too. Essentially they are a Pickering /Stanton fit, and even if all the yellow ones ran out, the Stanton 500 and equivalent ones will fit if you cut the plastic mount down. So don't worry about those going out of production.
Nigel, uk
On 16 Feb 2026 at 16:41, js--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
I haven't worked with Seeburgs yet (just Wurlitzer and AMI), but I'm sure there's solutions out there for alternate cartridges that use common stereo styli, just as I do on Wurlitzer and AMI. The same concepts would apply, unless you use a non-magnetic cartridge. Sounds like the Victory offering is non-magnetic.
On 2/15/2026 4:49 PM, Steve Swaine wrote:
Kinda hard to get excited about doing this now that the T-needles seem to be impossible to get. What are people doing about that? I saw that Victory is occasionally selling a new-build cart that can take the yellow needles, but you also have to add some sort of box between the tonearm and amp input (or replace the tube amp). Seems a bit Rube Goldbergesk. And who know how long the yellow needles will be around. I see you can’t buy the mono redhead stereo compliant needles either, so seems like there will be an awful lot of Seeburgs available cheep soon - just no easy way to play records on ‘em. Thanks, -steve.
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Good to know! Thanks, -steve.
On Feb 16, 2026, at 11:06 AM, Nigel Pugh via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Just to chime in, in response to Steve's posting also, I think the yellow needles will be around a long time. They served all the Seeburgs from the showcase onwards, lots of models, Sound leisure jukeboxes, and Associated Leisure ones in the UK. Sound leisure make a current vinyl model and I think that uses them too. Essentially they are a Pickering /Stanton fit, and even if all the yellow ones ran out, the Stanton 500 and equivalent ones will fit if you cut the plastic mount down. So don't worry about those going out of production.
Nigel, uk
On 16 Feb 2026 at 16:41, js--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
I haven't worked with Seeburgs yet (just Wurlitzer and AMI), but I'm sure there's solutions out there for alternate cartridges that use common stereo styli, just as I do on Wurlitzer and AMI. The same concepts would apply, unless you use a non-magnetic cartridge. Sounds like the Victory offering is non-magnetic.
On 2/15/2026 4:49 PM, Steve Swaine wrote: Kinda hard to get excited about doing this now that the T-needles seem to be impossible to get. What are people doing about that? I saw that Victory is occasionally selling a new-build cart that can take the yellow needles, but you also have to add some sort of box between the tonearm and amp input (or replace the tube amp). Seems a bit Rube Goldbergesk. And who know how long the yellow needles will be around. I see you can’t buy the mono redhead stereo compliant needles either, so seems like there will be an awful lot of Seeburgs available cheep soon - just no easy way to play records on ‘em. Thanks, -steve.
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On Sunday, February 15, 2026 at 11:33:47 AM PST, js--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Ok, so for a moving-magnet cartridge, the load resistor dampens the
inductance of the coil. Lowering the resistance dampens the
high-frequency resonance more, which means slightly reduced output and a
slightly darker top end.
I've been working in audio production for decades, and I've never heard of "dark top end." Can you clarify a little? Are you referring to a muffled sound, or dullness (my guess), or something else? Thanks.
On 2/17/2026 10:22 AM, David Breneman wrote:
On Sunday, February 15, 2026 at 11:33:47 AM PST, js--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Ok, so for a moving-magnet cartridge, the load resistor dampens the inductance of the coil. Lowering the resistance dampens the high-frequency resonance more, which means slightly reduced output
and a
slightly darker top end.
I've been working in audio production for decades, and I've never heard of "dark top end." Can you clarify a little? Are you referring to a muffled sound, or dullness (my guess), or something else? Thanks.
Surely you know what a brighter or bright top end is?
-JS.
On Tuesday, February 17, 2026 at 07:53:39 AM PST, js--- via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Surely you know what a brighter or bright top end is?
Yes, but the opposite of bright is usually dull, which was my guess. Never heard "dark." That's why I wanted to make sure I understood what you meant. No offense intended.
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