The florescent tubes have filaments on each end ( like incandescent lamps). If one of them is bad the tube won't light. The noise suppressors rarely ever go (none polarized capacitor). Ballast do. You can read them like a transformer. No reading "open", Very high almost off the chart "shorted". If shorted it blew out that tube. When replacing that bad ballast do not use a 22-25 watt, only use a 25 watt for the 33 inch tube. Regards,Tony On Friday, June 9, 2023 at 07:50:58 PM EDT, Ed Inman via Jukebox-list jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com wrote:
Have a customer whose fluorescent lamps went out. Jukebox takes rather rare F25T12/CW/33 lamps but I found a pair and replaced both FS-25 starters. One of the new lamps blinked for a second then went out. The other won't come on at all. Typical of failed ballasts? I noticed the ballasts are also connected to "noise suppression capacitors." Is this typical? Maybe bad capacitors? Are they really necessary? Should I try bypassing the capacitors or try replacing the ballasts? Both? Seems odd that both would fail at the same time. I'm sure this isn't rocket science but I was expecting the new lamps to start right up so it was kind of disappointing & the customer is frustrated. Any suggestions appreciated. thanks, Ed _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/