The one blink and done is typical of a bad ballast. With a meter you will see that the one end that blinked is now open, the new bulb is shot (there is a heating filament at each end and that end is now open) . The starter consists of a neon light and some have a capacitor. The capacitor is for noise reduction in the amp (each time the bulb blinks) and they work rather well in that way, but either starter with or without the cap will work. So you may have one or two bad brand new bulbs and a bad ballast.
I think but am not sure, that if you use a certain type of new ballast that doesn't need a stater, the blown bulbs will work. Takes a little rewiring.
Tony
On 6/9/2023 7:50 PM, Ed Inman via Jukebox-list wrote:
Have a customer whose fluorescent lamps went out. Jukebox takes rather rare F25T12/CW/33 lamps but I found a pair and replaced both FS-25 starters. One of the new lamps blinked for a second then went out. The other won't come on at all. Typical of failed ballasts? I noticed the ballasts are also connected to "noise suppression capacitors." Is this typical? Maybe bad capacitors? Are they really necessary? Should I try bypassing the capacitors or try replacing the ballasts? Both? Seems odd that both would fail at the same time. I'm sure this isn't rocket science but I was expecting the new lamps to start right up so it was kind of disappointing & the customer is frustrated. Any suggestions appreciated. thanks, Ed _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/