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Seeburg R Mech Lighting
by Jukebox Repairman 26 Aug '24

26 Aug '24

I Have an R I'm working on and typical only one side of the 100 end cap lighting works. The strange thing is I have 6V at the center pin of the socket. I've tried 3 different bulbs thinking maybe the bulb wasn't making good connectivity but no go. It seems like every R that I have restored has had this issue. Any thoughts on a fix? It's the only thing holding me up on completion of the job Regards, Rick

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Seeburg 222 Write in Issue
by Jukebox Repairman 19 Aug '24

19 Aug '24

I'm troubleshooting this customer's 222. It will not trip to play after a selection is made. The TSR was recapped she thinks approx 5 years ago and the credit unit has been bypassed with a Vern Schmitt (Victory) Free Play adapter. 6X4 tests good as do OA2's which have a purple glow and pulse accordingly during scan. It will trip if I remove the RCA from the pulse amp and it will also play all selections loading the tormat VIA D Cell Battery. Currently stumped. Regards, Rick It

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AMI JKK 200
by Tony Miklos 18 Aug '24

18 Aug '24

Why does the model J 200 have 2 K's after the J? Model JKK 200. Is there a model that just says J? While I'm at it, does anyone know the size of the o-ring for the scan control? I know who has them for sale but I hate to pay 7.50 for a 1 dollar part. Although if I count my time, the $7.50 might be the bargain? Tony

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Rock-Ola CD amp 56180-1A
by Tony Miklos 16 Aug '24

16 Aug '24

Rock-Ola 56180-1A amp from an Antique Apparatus/Rock-Ola OMT type. This amp had a crackle/rumble on 1 channel with the volume down all the way. Traced it to a tantalum cap with leakage. After replacing it, I could then hear that the other channel had the same problem so I replaced it (I used electrolytic caps, which I didn't think will be a problem) I don't stock any tantalum caps. (yet) Then at the end of a song before it was muted, I heard a very slight crackle, much less but I heard it. While it was playing I pulled the CD inputs and when turning up the volume the noise was louder with the volume up. The amp is loaded with 1uF tantalum caps and I'm wondering if there was a bad batch and I should replace them all. Now I did a search and find that John Robertson here had changed the same two as me (C12,C13) and two more (C6,C7). John, if you recall, are C6 and C7 before the volume control? My AMR manual schematic is really poor and I can hardly read the part values, does anyone have a factory one and is it much better? Tony

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How to wire remote cancel button on DS-100
by bpoldstyle＠yahoo.com 15 Aug '24

15 Aug '24

I recently added a remote cancel button to my Seeburg 222 by wiring it to terminals 2 and 3 on the record cancel terminal strip on the tormat selector unit. Now my cousin has asked me to add the same type of remote cancel switch to his DS-100. Looking online I noticed that his record cancel terminal strip has four terminals (the 222 has only three terminals). I believe the extra terminal supplies DC to a motorized remote volume control if that is added on. All we want to do is add a remote cancel button. Which two terminals should we use for the cancel button hook-up? Thanks in advance, Bruce

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Rock-Ola CD8 bubbler shipping bolt size
by Tony Miklos 14 Aug '24

14 Aug '24

I have a customer who wants to bring it here but has no shipping bolts and I don't know the size offhand. (He hasn't even found the holes yet.) Can anyone help with that? Thanks, Tony

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Rock-Ola 56180-1A amp
by Tony Miklos 11 Aug '24

11 Aug '24

Rock-Ola 56180-1A amp from an Antique Apparatus/Rock-Ola OMT type. This amp had a crackle/rumble on 1 channel with the volume down all the way. Traced it to a tantalum cap with leakage. After replacing it, I could then hear that the other channel had the same problem so I replaced it (I used electrolytic caps, which I didn't think will be a problem) I don't stock any tantalum caps. (yet) Then at the end of a song before it was muted, I heard a very slight crackle, much less but I heard it. While it was playing I pulled the CD inputs and when turning up the volume the noise was louder with the volume up. The amp is loaded with 1uF tantalum caps and I'm wondering if there was a bad batch and I should replace them all. Now I did a search and find that John Robertson here had changed the same two as me (C12,C13) and two more (C6,C7). John, if you recall, are C6 and C7 before the volume control? My AMR manual schematic is really poor and I can hardly read the part values, does anyone have a factory one and is it much better? Tony

1 0

Jorge from Rock-Ola phone
by Tony Miklos 06 Aug '24

06 Aug '24

I somehow lost the phone number for Jorge from Rock-Ola who works for himself now. I thought I had it in my address book(s) but can't find it. Anyone have his number handy? Thanks, Tony

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Philips PRO-AUDIO PLAYER
by Tony Miklos 06 Aug '24

06 Aug '24

OK, I might need CD help after all. For a different box, a guy sent me his player from a Wurlitzer. It's a Philips CD pro-like unit but the model isn't quite clear to me. It just says "pro-audio player", there is no VAU1252 or VAU1254. Anyone familiar with it? Will an early CD Pro laser work in it? Thanks, Tony

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Rock-Ola MZ8-1
by Tony Miklos 25 Jul '24

25 Jul '24

A customer bought one and I've never seen inside one yet. I guess it's touch screen. Will they work with what songs are downloaded on them without being hooked up to the internet? It came from a Texas Roadhouse. It looks like quite a few of these were auctioned off, not sure why. The customer can't tell me much about it except "it's a bubbler". He wants me to come and show him how to make it work. I don't see a manual for it on the Rock-Ola website. Tony

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Want to disable my Rockola 1493 princess intermix option
by Allen Mamet 22 Jul '24

22 Jul '24

I have a what i guess is the intermix platter on my princess, my issue is i have a few 7” 45’s with the small hole. How do i “disable” the feature that changes the speed to 33 1/3 when those small hole 45’s are placed on the platter? I’d rather not cut a larger hole in the 45 Thx Allen Sent from Altair IV

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Seeburg inductor
by Paul Howlett 17 Jul '24

17 Jul '24

What size is the inductor on the detent switch in a LPC-1. The original got smashed.

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WurliTzer 2900 lower lamp
by Shankar Singh 14 Jul '24

14 Jul '24

Would appreciate some pictures from someone who has a WurliTzer 2900, of the fluorescent lamp below the selection keyboard. Would like to see its position and how the end tips are mounted. Thank you Shankar Singh

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Another problem child, Wurlitzer 2810 not selecting
by Tony Miklos 13 Jul '24

13 Jul '24

I have a 2810 in for some work. Got everything fixed and testing it yesterday it suddenly stopped selecting. It was set on free play when it came in and that worked fine. (It had some funny little clip on the free play button to make it stay on.) It was working perfectly. I had tested it for some time, then suddenly when making a selection, the buttons latch in and that's it. Both latch solenoids are engaged and the associated contacts are cleaned and adjusted. I did go through the troubleshooting menu in the manual but didn't find anything. Any ideas? Thanks, Tony

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Re: Another problem child, Wurlitzer 2810 not selecting
by Shankar Singh 13 Jul '24

13 Jul '24

Try cleaning the switches for the relays on the junction box. Shankar Singh On Jul 13, 2024, at 09:04, Tony Miklos via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: I have a 2810 in for some work. Got everything fixed and testing it yesterday it suddenly stopped selecting. It was set on free play when it came in and that worked fine. (It had some funny little clip on the free play button to make it stay on.) It was working perfectly. I had tested it for some time, then suddenly when making a selection, the buttons latch in and that's it. Both latch solenoids are engaged and the associated contacts are cleaned and adjusted. I did go through the troubleshooting menu in the manual but didn't find anything. Any ideas? Thanks, Tony _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/

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LPC 480
by Tony Miklos 13 Jul '24

13 Jul '24

I put a new (used) clutch in because the old one somehow had the worm gear stripped. Often when it went to the right side and then reverses, it gets stuck and just slips. I went over the rubber stop and the reverse trip adjustments and it is working much better, I actually counted and it worked properly 100 times in a row. If I make it change direction before it gets to either end, it changes direction no problem at all, ever. (I hope Ron isn't reading this and knows that I was hitting the reversing switch by hand) :) It was acting up whenever changing from the right side to the other direction but the adjustments cured that. What remains is that if I play the last record on the right, A or B side, it then gets stuck again. Pushing the mech quickly to the left will engage the clutch and all it well until I select the last selection. Any ideas? I'm about ready to tell the customer not to play the last selection! (not really) Tony

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Re: W2900 Problems
by Shankar Singh 12 Jul '24

12 Jul '24

Good news to report! The motor shaft and drive wheel axis had no left-right/top-bottom moment. But they had push-pull movement. I replaced the turntable belt and switched over the sleeve from a newer motor shaft to replace the pitted one I had. I was surprised at the difference it made. The annoying noise was gone! Just have to remove the back-stop pawls to clean them… again… (groan…) Thanks again John! SHANKAR SINGH On Jul 11, 2024, at 16:14, John Robertson via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: On 2024/07/11 8:35 a.m., Shankar Singh via Jukebox-list wrote: > I am now playing this juke after a couple years rest. Cleaning all the relays and switches made it operational again. 2 annoying issues prevail- > > 1. Back Stop Pawl keeps sticking. > I sprayed a few drops of auto parts cleaner at the pivot. It frees up for a few hours and then sticks again to cause wrong odd side selections. > Any suggestions? Trying to avoid removing and washing. Did the factory paint around the pawl frame for reference? Do that with a black marker, then remove and wash thoroughly in solvent. Do both sides. > 2. Turntable motor noise. > This noise is not heard through the speakers. > But it sounds loud before and after the music drowns it out. > > If I push off the drive wheel from the motor sleeve, you can barely hear the disengaged motor spinning by itself. Could the arm that the drive wheel spins on have a problem? Any play in the drive wheel axis? Side to side, or up/down? May need to having bushings added > The sleeve seems pitted. I think this could have been done years ago to avoid issues from hardened drive wheel tyre. Which sleeve? > Could the belt or rubber mounts cause this? Remove belt, if sound vanishes check turntable assembly for play.I assume the belt is nice and flexible. Are any of the motor mounts cracked or rock hard? They should be flexible...I stock those as do others. > Any advice would be appreciated. > > Thank you. > > Shankar Singh You are welcome! John :-#)# -- John's Jukes Ltd. 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out" _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/

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Re: W2900 Problems
by Shankar Singh 12 Jul '24

12 Jul '24

Good news to report! The motor shaft and drive wheel axis had no left-right/top-bottom moment. But they had push-pull movement. I replaced the turntable belt and switched over the sleeve from a newer motor shaft to replace the pitted one I had. I was surprised at the difference it made. The annoying noise was gone! Just have to remove the back-stop pawls to clean them… again… (groan…) Thanks again John! SHANKAR SINGH On Jul 11, 2024, at 16:14, John Robertson via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: On 2024/07/11 8:35 a.m., Shankar Singh via Jukebox-list wrote: > I am now playing this juke after a couple years rest. Cleaning all the relays and switches made it operational again. 2 annoying issues prevail- > > 1. Back Stop Pawl keeps sticking. > I sprayed a few drops of auto parts cleaner at the pivot. It frees up for a few hours and then sticks again to cause wrong odd side selections. > Any suggestions? Trying to avoid removing and washing. Did the factory paint around the pawl frame for reference? Do that with a black marker, then remove and wash thoroughly in solvent. Do both sides. > 2. Turntable motor noise. > This noise is not heard through the speakers. > But it sounds loud before and after the music drowns it out. > > If I push off the drive wheel from the motor sleeve, you can barely hear the disengaged motor spinning by itself. Could the arm that the drive wheel spins on have a problem? Any play in the drive wheel axis? Side to side, or up/down? May need to having bushings added > The sleeve seems pitted. I think this could have been done years ago to avoid issues from hardened drive wheel tyre. Which sleeve? > Could the belt or rubber mounts cause this? Remove belt, if sound vanishes check turntable assembly for play.I assume the belt is nice and flexible. Are any of the motor mounts cracked or rock hard? They should be flexible...I stock those as do others. > Any advice would be appreciated. > > Thank you. > > Shankar Singh You are welcome! John :-#)# -- John's Jukes Ltd. 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out" _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/

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W2900 Problems
by Shankar Singh 11 Jul '24

11 Jul '24

I am now playing this juke after a couple years rest. Cleaning all the relays and switches made it operational again. 2 annoying issues prevail- 1. Back Stop Pawl keeps sticking. I sprayed a few drops of auto parts cleaner at the pivot. It frees up for a few hours and then sticks again to cause wrong odd side selections. Any suggestions? Trying to avoid removing and washing. 2. Turntable motor noise. This noise is not heard through the speakers. But it sounds loud before and after the music drowns it out. If I push off the drive wheel from the motor sleeve, you can barely hear the disengaged motor spinning by itself. Could the arm that the drive wheel spins on have a problem? The sleeve seems pitted. I think this could have been done years ago to avoid issues from hardened drive wheel tyre. Could the belt or rubber mounts cause this? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you. Shankar Singh

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Re: Reduced tension WurliTzer vertical play lift arm springs.
by Shankar Singh 11 Jul '24

11 Jul '24

Rob, Would this be a suitable gauge for the spring stretching exercise? https://us.ohaus.com/en-us/products/balances-scales/mechanical-scales-balan… 12 oz would be about 340 g. What sort of value would it be for an unstretched spring? Thank you Shankar Singh On May 4, 2022, at 14:23, Chan Gade <chan.gade(a)yahoo.com> wrote: I first reduced the lift springs in March 1986 when I got my first W1800. The approach I’ve always used is to simply overstretch them carefully so as to weaken the force down to approx 6 oz. for the 100-104 and approx 12 oz for the 200. I over weakened a spring on a 3000 to 6 oz and it worked reliably anyway. He reason for the slight added force on the 200’s is the friction from the duckbills and more careful setting of the guide rollers. I’ve always taken a whole setup approach. Mechs are washed. Carousel removed. That involves removal of the arch and motors as well as all underside assemblies. After drying and relube the carousel in replaced and I make sure it is locked/indexed to the crank. I manually turn the large gear in reverse to allow a lift arm to just begin to enter a slot. It must be centered. I double check by releasing the backstop pawl and checking of any movement. Wurlitzer was pretty good at setting this uniformly, but I have found a cumulative shift due to variances in the carousel. Try this at several points on both A and B sides. If more than a 1/16in shift is consistently noticed, I reset that side’s backstop pawl, Here I let the duckbill enter the slot just to the point where it’s hinge in entering as well. Carefully move the backstop pawl to just engage the carousel tooth and lock it. ----Guide rollers must be able to turn freely. The old oil often causes them to get stiff or not turn at all. This will affect the last inch of lift where they help position the gap or duckbill so they don’t drag on the turning record. Wurlitzer tended to use a bit tighter gap in the rollers than necessary. I open them ‘just enough” to do their job without adding much drag. --Stretching the springs: It is pretty simple, I attach one end to a rigid item such as a steel shelf unit and, using a shop glove I pull back on the spring over it’s entire length to the point where I feel as slight “give’.. Put the spring back on the mach and with lift arm fully up, I measure the force required to pull it back down against the spring tension.. I use a simple Ohaus spring pull scale hooked to the bottom of the arm elbow. Go slow and expect to try several times till you get the desired tension.. When I was doing Wirlitzers by the half-dozen ( I really liked them) the process became quick and intuitive. Now, I’d be back to first time caution. This was just one of several mods to make the old mechs less brutal and it is especially helpful in preserving the later AC gearmotors (2700-3300) for which there is no modern replacement that I’m aware of. It would be great if someone produced new-weaker springs, but this is probably too esoteric…so as usual, we are on our own. RobNYC

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Rowe CD title page Motor
by Jukebox Repairman 09 Jul '24

09 Jul '24

I have a customer with Model I CD machine. This has the vertical title pages and like most the gear in the motor has stripped. The original motor is a Merkle-Korff ( now nidec) and apparently a rare commodity. Tried calling them directly and emailing but no response. Does anyone have a spare motor they could part with? Regards Rick

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Wurlitzer 1050
by Jukebox Repairman 07 Jul '24

07 Jul '24

Carousel continues to spin after last record has played. Failed MIcroswitch or ??? <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_cam…> Virus-free.www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_cam…> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

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Mills Do-Re-Mi
by ascott822 07 Jul '24

07 Jul '24

This guy has worked fine for years since it’s restoration. Now, The box takes a selection but when carousel rotates to the record the tone arm comes down and right back up and carousel continues to rotate. Suggestions please. Thank you Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

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Cartridge terminals
by Tony Miklos 06 Jul '24

06 Jul '24

Does anyone have a good source for the round terminals that slide onto the cartridge pins? I looked around and it looks like the going rate is about $5 for four! (plus shipping) It used to be that new cartridges came with them but not anymore (for a lot of them anyway). I thought I'd find something like 100 for $10. Maybe the return of the vinyl drove prices crazy? Tony

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Seeburg Redhead Blue Needles.
by Jim McClave 06 Jul '24

06 Jul '24

Anyone have a good source for these? Needles for Jukeboxes is out of stock, and Ive been told theirs is of poor quality anyway.

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