- Jukebox-list - lists.netlojix.com

Rowe MM6 Mech Motor Replacement
by Jukebox Repairman 05 Sep '24

05 Sep '24

I removed the motor to free up the linkage but now I'm having issues trying to line up the crank pin on the lift arm. Can someone explain the orientation of the long and short crank pins with the gripper arm at full rest position over the magazine? I must be overthinking it. I don't think it should be this hard. Is there a trick to it? Regards, Rick

2 1

Seeburg SMC-1 help requested
by NotarySojac 02 Sep '24

02 Sep '24

SMC-1 saga: I'm trying to get a friend's Seeburg SMC-1 Disco working. She tells me it worked around seven years ago while she & hubby lived in Wisconsin. They bought it at one of the Chicago Coin-op Shows. Hubby was developing dementia shortly before moving to my neck of the woods in 2017. He apparently did NOT secure the mech for their 1000 mile move to Texas. When it arrived it would light up, displayed gobbldygook on the front panel but nothing more. Hubby passed away several years ago and the machine has sat silent ever since. When I first checked it out (after boning up reading the manual) I asked if they'd ever changed the batteries. "What batteries??" she replied. Oh my! I opened up the MCU box and a lot of "snow" drifted down! This thing was toast. I ordered an upgrade board from CDAdapter, installed it and then the fun began. Upon power up the display shnows "- - - - - - - -" and stops. Does not show Your Selection, Selection Playing or "FP" for free play. Just dashes. Mech was all the way over to the right side. Scan switch did nothing to move the mech in either Normal or Service modes. I could put it into Service Mode and operate all of the functions with the new keypad/board. At least the display was working. When I put it into Factory Test Mode the Selection Playing display always shows "00". The #7 function is supposed to spin the motor. Nothing. I tried to move the mech over to the left by hand-spinning the motor shaft. No movement. Then today a nice person on the Seeburg FB group tipped me off to the trip solenoid lever. It was in the down (play) position. I flipped it up (scan) position and was able to move it to the center. Powered up but still all dashes on the display. I switched to Service Mode and it picked up a record and played it.. but did not reject it after play. Powered the box down and manually got the record back into the rack. Still won't scan. Was able to get the motor to run using the #4 Factory Test function and #7 to turn it off. Next I swapped out the PCC board with one I got from Victory Glass.. I'm trying anything at this point. Not much different except Factory Test is acting like this: #1 Turns on motor #2 Turns on motor #4 Turns on motor @7 Turns on motor ..display consistently shows "00" in Selection Playing window. Also, when put back in Normal Mode the motor starts spinning... but not scanning. I can get the motor to stop by flipping the Reject Switch. Powered down and tried to move the mech manually by hand-turning the motor shaft. Nope! Won't move with trip solenoid lever up or down. So to recap: Both MCU and PCC boards replaced. Box does not complete power up showing correct info on display, just eight dashes. Cannot get mech to move left or right by hand-spinning the motor shaft. I've reached the edge of my expertice and could sure use some sage advice. Thanks for reading and perhaps offering ideas. Bob - Georgetown Tx.

1 0

AMI R-145 amplifier volume control modification
by Dave 29 Aug '24

29 Aug '24

Joey, Mine are a C-40 and a D-80, so I have a slightly different modification, but Harold Hagen suggested the following for the G-J in one of his "Dr. Know It All" columns: "Take the positive lead loose from the volume control. Connect a 10K or 15K resistor from this lead to the wire that's still connected to the control. Now take a 22 MFD capacitor (25 volts) and connect the plus the wire you took loose, and the negative to the volume control terminal that previously had the wire. This isolates the volume control from the DC, and sometimes helps significantly." Hope this helps. - Dave Schwallie ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2024 21:41:12 -0400 (EDT) From: joeymcd <joeymcd(a)mymts.net> Subject: [Jukebox-list] AMI R-145 amplifier volume control modification To: jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com Message-ID: <1371623906.4407910.1724722872955.JavaMail.zimbra(a)mymts.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Does anyone have the schematic modification for the scratchy volume control issue on a AMi R-145 amplifier? Specifically an AMi F and G model. I used to have a copy but can't find it. Thanks. Joey McDonald

1 0

AMI R-145 amplifier volume control modification
by joeymcd 26 Aug '24

26 Aug '24

Does anyone have the schematic modification for the scratchy volume control issue on a AMi R-145 amplifier? Specifically an AMi F and G model. I used to have a copy but can't find it. Thanks. Joey McDonald

1 0

Re: Seeburg R Mech Lighting
by Jukebox Repairman 26 Aug '24

26 Aug '24

Jukebox Repairman 3:22 PM (0 minutes ago) to jrr so i added a dab of solder to the bulb body, inserted into the socket and it lit right up. Thanks for all input everyone. im smiling again On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 2:46 PM John Robertson <jrr(a)flippers.com> wrote: > On 2024-08-26 10:50 a.m., Jukebox Repairman wrote: > > Thanks John, I probably should have mentioned using my tester i have 6v on > center pin of socket when grounding to the outside of the socket > > OK, now with the bulb in the socket, use alligator jumper wires to the pin > that sticks out the rear and the shell mount and your meter. If Zero, then > the socket is corroded and needs replacing. If 6V and the light is out, > look at the lamp pin contact surface - I imagine it is corroded. A pencil > eraser make help here, or replace the socket... > > John :-#)# > > > > On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 1:41 PM John Robertson via Jukebox-list < > jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: > >> On 2024-08-26 10:09 a.m., Jukebox Repairman via Jukebox-list wrote: >> > I Have an R I'm working on and typical only one side of the 100 end >> > cap lighting works. >> > The strange thing is I have 6V at the center pin of the socket. I've >> tried >> > 3 different bulbs thinking maybe the bulb wasn't making good >> connectivity >> > but no go. >> > >> > It seems like every R that I have restored has had this issue. Any >> thoughts >> > on a fix? >> > >> > It's the only thing holding me up on completion of the job >> > >> > Regards, >> > Rick >> > _____ >> >> If you have 6V on the center terminal of the lamp socket, perhaps the >> lamp socket shell is too loose to make a ground connection. Check using >> the shell and the centre terminal, then if Zero V check the center >> terminal and the shell's mounting arm... >> >> John :-#)# >> >> >> -- >> John's Jukes Ltd. >> 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 >> Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) >> flippers.com >> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out" >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com >> To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com >> %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s >> Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/ >> > > -- > John's Jukes Ltd. > 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 > Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) > flippers.com > "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out" > >

2 1

Seeburg R Mech Lighting
by Jukebox Repairman 26 Aug '24

26 Aug '24

I Have an R I'm working on and typical only one side of the 100 end cap lighting works. The strange thing is I have 6V at the center pin of the socket. I've tried 3 different bulbs thinking maybe the bulb wasn't making good connectivity but no go. It seems like every R that I have restored has had this issue. Any thoughts on a fix? It's the only thing holding me up on completion of the job Regards, Rick

5 5

Seeburg 222 Write in Issue
by Jukebox Repairman 19 Aug '24

19 Aug '24

I'm troubleshooting this customer's 222. It will not trip to play after a selection is made. The TSR was recapped she thinks approx 5 years ago and the credit unit has been bypassed with a Vern Schmitt (Victory) Free Play adapter. 6X4 tests good as do OA2's which have a purple glow and pulse accordingly during scan. It will trip if I remove the RCA from the pulse amp and it will also play all selections loading the tormat VIA D Cell Battery. Currently stumped. Regards, Rick It

2 5

AMI JKK 200
by Tony Miklos 18 Aug '24

18 Aug '24

Why does the model J 200 have 2 K's after the J? Model JKK 200. Is there a model that just says J? While I'm at it, does anyone know the size of the o-ring for the scan control? I know who has them for sale but I hate to pay 7.50 for a 1 dollar part. Although if I count my time, the $7.50 might be the bargain? Tony

2 1

Rock-Ola CD amp 56180-1A
by Tony Miklos 16 Aug '24

16 Aug '24

Rock-Ola 56180-1A amp from an Antique Apparatus/Rock-Ola OMT type. This amp had a crackle/rumble on 1 channel with the volume down all the way. Traced it to a tantalum cap with leakage. After replacing it, I could then hear that the other channel had the same problem so I replaced it (I used electrolytic caps, which I didn't think will be a problem) I don't stock any tantalum caps. (yet) Then at the end of a song before it was muted, I heard a very slight crackle, much less but I heard it. While it was playing I pulled the CD inputs and when turning up the volume the noise was louder with the volume up. The amp is loaded with 1uF tantalum caps and I'm wondering if there was a bad batch and I should replace them all. Now I did a search and find that John Robertson here had changed the same two as me (C12,C13) and two more (C6,C7). John, if you recall, are C6 and C7 before the volume control? My AMR manual schematic is really poor and I can hardly read the part values, does anyone have a factory one and is it much better? Tony

2 1

How to wire remote cancel button on DS-100
by bpoldstyle＠yahoo.com 15 Aug '24

15 Aug '24

I recently added a remote cancel button to my Seeburg 222 by wiring it to terminals 2 and 3 on the record cancel terminal strip on the tormat selector unit. Now my cousin has asked me to add the same type of remote cancel switch to his DS-100. Looking online I noticed that his record cancel terminal strip has four terminals (the 222 has only three terminals). I believe the extra terminal supplies DC to a motorized remote volume control if that is added on. All we want to do is add a remote cancel button. Which two terminals should we use for the cancel button hook-up? Thanks in advance, Bruce

2 2

Rock-Ola CD8 bubbler shipping bolt size
by Tony Miklos 14 Aug '24

14 Aug '24

I have a customer who wants to bring it here but has no shipping bolts and I don't know the size offhand. (He hasn't even found the holes yet.) Can anyone help with that? Thanks, Tony

3 6

Rock-Ola 56180-1A amp
by Tony Miklos 11 Aug '24

11 Aug '24

Rock-Ola 56180-1A amp from an Antique Apparatus/Rock-Ola OMT type. This amp had a crackle/rumble on 1 channel with the volume down all the way. Traced it to a tantalum cap with leakage. After replacing it, I could then hear that the other channel had the same problem so I replaced it (I used electrolytic caps, which I didn't think will be a problem) I don't stock any tantalum caps. (yet) Then at the end of a song before it was muted, I heard a very slight crackle, much less but I heard it. While it was playing I pulled the CD inputs and when turning up the volume the noise was louder with the volume up. The amp is loaded with 1uF tantalum caps and I'm wondering if there was a bad batch and I should replace them all. Now I did a search and find that John Robertson here had changed the same two as me (C12,C13) and two more (C6,C7). John, if you recall, are C6 and C7 before the volume control? My AMR manual schematic is really poor and I can hardly read the part values, does anyone have a factory one and is it much better? Tony

1 0

Jorge from Rock-Ola phone
by Tony Miklos 06 Aug '24

06 Aug '24

I somehow lost the phone number for Jorge from Rock-Ola who works for himself now. I thought I had it in my address book(s) but can't find it. Anyone have his number handy? Thanks, Tony

3 4

Philips PRO-AUDIO PLAYER
by Tony Miklos 06 Aug '24

06 Aug '24

OK, I might need CD help after all. For a different box, a guy sent me his player from a Wurlitzer. It's a Philips CD pro-like unit but the model isn't quite clear to me. It just says "pro-audio player", there is no VAU1252 or VAU1254. Anyone familiar with it? Will an early CD Pro laser work in it? Thanks, Tony

2 3

Rock-Ola MZ8-1
by Tony Miklos 25 Jul '24

25 Jul '24

A customer bought one and I've never seen inside one yet. I guess it's touch screen. Will they work with what songs are downloaded on them without being hooked up to the internet? It came from a Texas Roadhouse. It looks like quite a few of these were auctioned off, not sure why. The customer can't tell me much about it except "it's a bubbler". He wants me to come and show him how to make it work. I don't see a manual for it on the Rock-Ola website. Tony

1 0

Want to disable my Rockola 1493 princess intermix option
by Allen Mamet 22 Jul '24

22 Jul '24

I have a what i guess is the intermix platter on my princess, my issue is i have a few 7” 45’s with the small hole. How do i “disable” the feature that changes the speed to 33 1/3 when those small hole 45’s are placed on the platter? I’d rather not cut a larger hole in the 45 Thx Allen Sent from Altair IV

5 7

Seeburg inductor
by Paul Howlett 17 Jul '24

17 Jul '24

What size is the inductor on the detent switch in a LPC-1. The original got smashed.

2 1

WurliTzer 2900 lower lamp
by Shankar Singh 14 Jul '24

14 Jul '24

Would appreciate some pictures from someone who has a WurliTzer 2900, of the fluorescent lamp below the selection keyboard. Would like to see its position and how the end tips are mounted. Thank you Shankar Singh

1 0

Another problem child, Wurlitzer 2810 not selecting
by Tony Miklos 13 Jul '24

13 Jul '24

I have a 2810 in for some work. Got everything fixed and testing it yesterday it suddenly stopped selecting. It was set on free play when it came in and that worked fine. (It had some funny little clip on the free play button to make it stay on.) It was working perfectly. I had tested it for some time, then suddenly when making a selection, the buttons latch in and that's it. Both latch solenoids are engaged and the associated contacts are cleaned and adjusted. I did go through the troubleshooting menu in the manual but didn't find anything. Any ideas? Thanks, Tony

2 3

Re: Another problem child, Wurlitzer 2810 not selecting
by Shankar Singh 13 Jul '24

13 Jul '24

Try cleaning the switches for the relays on the junction box. Shankar Singh On Jul 13, 2024, at 09:04, Tony Miklos via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: I have a 2810 in for some work. Got everything fixed and testing it yesterday it suddenly stopped selecting. It was set on free play when it came in and that worked fine. (It had some funny little clip on the free play button to make it stay on.) It was working perfectly. I had tested it for some time, then suddenly when making a selection, the buttons latch in and that's it. Both latch solenoids are engaged and the associated contacts are cleaned and adjusted. I did go through the troubleshooting menu in the manual but didn't find anything. Any ideas? Thanks, Tony _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/

2 1

LPC 480
by Tony Miklos 13 Jul '24

13 Jul '24

I put a new (used) clutch in because the old one somehow had the worm gear stripped. Often when it went to the right side and then reverses, it gets stuck and just slips. I went over the rubber stop and the reverse trip adjustments and it is working much better, I actually counted and it worked properly 100 times in a row. If I make it change direction before it gets to either end, it changes direction no problem at all, ever. (I hope Ron isn't reading this and knows that I was hitting the reversing switch by hand) :) It was acting up whenever changing from the right side to the other direction but the adjustments cured that. What remains is that if I play the last record on the right, A or B side, it then gets stuck again. Pushing the mech quickly to the left will engage the clutch and all it well until I select the last selection. Any ideas? I'm about ready to tell the customer not to play the last selection! (not really) Tony

4 5

Re: W2900 Problems
by Shankar Singh 12 Jul '24

12 Jul '24

Good news to report! The motor shaft and drive wheel axis had no left-right/top-bottom moment. But they had push-pull movement. I replaced the turntable belt and switched over the sleeve from a newer motor shaft to replace the pitted one I had. I was surprised at the difference it made. The annoying noise was gone! Just have to remove the back-stop pawls to clean them… again… (groan…) Thanks again John! SHANKAR SINGH On Jul 11, 2024, at 16:14, John Robertson via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: On 2024/07/11 8:35 a.m., Shankar Singh via Jukebox-list wrote: > I am now playing this juke after a couple years rest. Cleaning all the relays and switches made it operational again. 2 annoying issues prevail- > > 1. Back Stop Pawl keeps sticking. > I sprayed a few drops of auto parts cleaner at the pivot. It frees up for a few hours and then sticks again to cause wrong odd side selections. > Any suggestions? Trying to avoid removing and washing. Did the factory paint around the pawl frame for reference? Do that with a black marker, then remove and wash thoroughly in solvent. Do both sides. > 2. Turntable motor noise. > This noise is not heard through the speakers. > But it sounds loud before and after the music drowns it out. > > If I push off the drive wheel from the motor sleeve, you can barely hear the disengaged motor spinning by itself. Could the arm that the drive wheel spins on have a problem? Any play in the drive wheel axis? Side to side, or up/down? May need to having bushings added > The sleeve seems pitted. I think this could have been done years ago to avoid issues from hardened drive wheel tyre. Which sleeve? > Could the belt or rubber mounts cause this? Remove belt, if sound vanishes check turntable assembly for play.I assume the belt is nice and flexible. Are any of the motor mounts cracked or rock hard? They should be flexible...I stock those as do others. > Any advice would be appreciated. > > Thank you. > > Shankar Singh You are welcome! John :-#)# -- John's Jukes Ltd. 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out" _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/

1 0

Re: W2900 Problems
by Shankar Singh 12 Jul '24

12 Jul '24

Good news to report! The motor shaft and drive wheel axis had no left-right/top-bottom moment. But they had push-pull movement. I replaced the turntable belt and switched over the sleeve from a newer motor shaft to replace the pitted one I had. I was surprised at the difference it made. The annoying noise was gone! Just have to remove the back-stop pawls to clean them… again… (groan…) Thanks again John! SHANKAR SINGH On Jul 11, 2024, at 16:14, John Robertson via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: On 2024/07/11 8:35 a.m., Shankar Singh via Jukebox-list wrote: > I am now playing this juke after a couple years rest. Cleaning all the relays and switches made it operational again. 2 annoying issues prevail- > > 1. Back Stop Pawl keeps sticking. > I sprayed a few drops of auto parts cleaner at the pivot. It frees up for a few hours and then sticks again to cause wrong odd side selections. > Any suggestions? Trying to avoid removing and washing. Did the factory paint around the pawl frame for reference? Do that with a black marker, then remove and wash thoroughly in solvent. Do both sides. > 2. Turntable motor noise. > This noise is not heard through the speakers. > But it sounds loud before and after the music drowns it out. > > If I push off the drive wheel from the motor sleeve, you can barely hear the disengaged motor spinning by itself. Could the arm that the drive wheel spins on have a problem? Any play in the drive wheel axis? Side to side, or up/down? May need to having bushings added > The sleeve seems pitted. I think this could have been done years ago to avoid issues from hardened drive wheel tyre. Which sleeve? > Could the belt or rubber mounts cause this? Remove belt, if sound vanishes check turntable assembly for play.I assume the belt is nice and flexible. Are any of the motor mounts cracked or rock hard? They should be flexible...I stock those as do others. > Any advice would be appreciated. > > Thank you. > > Shankar Singh You are welcome! John :-#)# -- John's Jukes Ltd. 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out" _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/

1 0

W2900 Problems
by Shankar Singh 11 Jul '24

11 Jul '24

I am now playing this juke after a couple years rest. Cleaning all the relays and switches made it operational again. 2 annoying issues prevail- 1. Back Stop Pawl keeps sticking. I sprayed a few drops of auto parts cleaner at the pivot. It frees up for a few hours and then sticks again to cause wrong odd side selections. Any suggestions? Trying to avoid removing and washing. 2. Turntable motor noise. This noise is not heard through the speakers. But it sounds loud before and after the music drowns it out. If I push off the drive wheel from the motor sleeve, you can barely hear the disengaged motor spinning by itself. Could the arm that the drive wheel spins on have a problem? The sleeve seems pitted. I think this could have been done years ago to avoid issues from hardened drive wheel tyre. Could the belt or rubber mounts cause this? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you. Shankar Singh

2 1

Re: Reduced tension WurliTzer vertical play lift arm springs.
by Shankar Singh 11 Jul '24

11 Jul '24

Rob, Would this be a suitable gauge for the spring stretching exercise? https://us.ohaus.com/en-us/products/balances-scales/mechanical-scales-balan… 12 oz would be about 340 g. What sort of value would it be for an unstretched spring? Thank you Shankar Singh On May 4, 2022, at 14:23, Chan Gade <chan.gade(a)yahoo.com> wrote: I first reduced the lift springs in March 1986 when I got my first W1800. The approach I’ve always used is to simply overstretch them carefully so as to weaken the force down to approx 6 oz. for the 100-104 and approx 12 oz for the 200. I over weakened a spring on a 3000 to 6 oz and it worked reliably anyway. He reason for the slight added force on the 200’s is the friction from the duckbills and more careful setting of the guide rollers. I’ve always taken a whole setup approach. Mechs are washed. Carousel removed. That involves removal of the arch and motors as well as all underside assemblies. After drying and relube the carousel in replaced and I make sure it is locked/indexed to the crank. I manually turn the large gear in reverse to allow a lift arm to just begin to enter a slot. It must be centered. I double check by releasing the backstop pawl and checking of any movement. Wurlitzer was pretty good at setting this uniformly, but I have found a cumulative shift due to variances in the carousel. Try this at several points on both A and B sides. If more than a 1/16in shift is consistently noticed, I reset that side’s backstop pawl, Here I let the duckbill enter the slot just to the point where it’s hinge in entering as well. Carefully move the backstop pawl to just engage the carousel tooth and lock it. ----Guide rollers must be able to turn freely. The old oil often causes them to get stiff or not turn at all. This will affect the last inch of lift where they help position the gap or duckbill so they don’t drag on the turning record. Wurlitzer tended to use a bit tighter gap in the rollers than necessary. I open them ‘just enough” to do their job without adding much drag. --Stretching the springs: It is pretty simple, I attach one end to a rigid item such as a steel shelf unit and, using a shop glove I pull back on the spring over it’s entire length to the point where I feel as slight “give’.. Put the spring back on the mach and with lift arm fully up, I measure the force required to pull it back down against the spring tension.. I use a simple Ohaus spring pull scale hooked to the bottom of the arm elbow. Go slow and expect to try several times till you get the desired tension.. When I was doing Wirlitzers by the half-dozen ( I really liked them) the process became quick and intuitive. Now, I’d be back to first time caution. This was just one of several mods to make the old mechs less brutal and it is especially helpful in preserving the later AC gearmotors (2700-3300) for which there is no modern replacement that I’m aware of. It would be great if someone produced new-weaker springs, but this is probably too esoteric…so as usual, we are on our own. RobNYC

2 2

2025

2024

2023

Jukebox-list