On 2025-04-17 8:35 a.m., Tony Miklos via Jukebox-list wrote:
It is a mess. I really don't recall how long but I'm fairly certain it was less than 4 hours. That is like a lifetime onsite. It was my first one. I think John R does a lot of them, see if he chimes in here again.
3 to 4 hours start to finish sounds reasonable. We pull the mechanism and set it on the bench on milk crates or similar supports. Having full access makes it a faster job.
The problem is when doing the trays you are also checking the rest of the mech and then worn bushings typically show up...at which point we are talking full rebuild in the shop.
We did drill guide holes in our large bench drill press tray for holding the 24 mech frames in place for drilling out the old bushing (or if never bushed the frame) so it could accept our new bronze sintered bushings that last and take oil very well. Tap them in carefully, file smooth, use a 1/2" long reamer to clean up the bushing and check alignment with a 1 foot piece of 1/2 polished steel rod before starting to put back together. Yeah, we need to write it up and take photos - our next overhaul that is the plan!
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/index.php?route=product/search&search=bu...
If you do decide to do it onsite, I'd bring something to lay parts down on and to keep grease from spreading. Personally, I think the next time I'd take it to the shop. There are probably a few other parts gummed up. I've only done maybe 2 or 3 more but that was in the shop and I probably did a better job.
Use of a sturdy (!) card table and grease cloth is minimum. Lots of shop rags.
I once bought a *restored* 1015 for a customer, from one of the biggest names in their restoration at the time (25-30 years ago). It had a crap load of defects and I ended up returning it laying down in my van. The point of this is to say that it *leaked* something like red transmission fluid out of the tray area, a lot of it! We were not on friendly terms so I didn't ask him what it was.
Might have been tranny fluid, no idea why anyone would use that though...
Tony
John ;-#)#
On 4/17/2025 10:47 AM, Jukebox Repairman via Jukebox-list wrote:
Tony, i didnt want to do it onsite for fear of the mess. Roughly how many hours did you have in it if you recall?
Rick
On Wed, Apr 16, 2025 at 10:31 PM Tony Miklos via Jukebox-list < jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote:
Don't do like me the first time I pulled a stack apart... remove every tray spring before starting!
I did one on the road in a house, not fun at all. That grease or oil turns into some weird looking green stuff and it doesn't come clean easy. I can't picture that on later ones. Has anyone else seen the green glue? Are they all like that if never cleaned/lubed since it left the factory?
Tony
On 4/16/2025 5:15 PM, M De Simone via Jukebox-list wrote:
And we are back to the old question, do you lubricate the record stack
and if so with what type of lubricant? Or do you clean and assemble it dry? Perhaps some silicone spray?
I’m gearing up to do an 1100 and still not 100% sure which way to go.
Mauro
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 16, 2025, at 4:07 PM, John Robertson via Jukebox-list <
jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote:
On 2025-04-16 8:25 a.m., Jukebox Repairman via Jukebox-list wrote:
Has anyone come up with an easy way to free up sticky record trays
without
disassembling the stack assembly?
I'm dealing with a stubborn one that's been sitting idle for ten years
Regards, Rick
No short cut for this. The lube has dried up and needs to be cleaned
out and replaced.
Back when these machines were new the factory recommended a mechanism
overhaul/rebuild every six months for busy locations...
John :-#)#
-- John's Jukes Ltd. 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out"