August 2024 - Jukebox-list - lists.netlojix.com

AMI R-145 amplifier volume control modification
by Dave 29 Aug '24

29 Aug '24

Joey, Mine are a C-40 and a D-80, so I have a slightly different modification, but Harold Hagen suggested the following for the G-J in one of his "Dr. Know It All" columns: "Take the positive lead loose from the volume control. Connect a 10K or 15K resistor from this lead to the wire that's still connected to the control. Now take a 22 MFD capacitor (25 volts) and connect the plus the wire you took loose, and the negative to the volume control terminal that previously had the wire. This isolates the volume control from the DC, and sometimes helps significantly." Hope this helps. - Dave Schwallie ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2024 21:41:12 -0400 (EDT) From: joeymcd <joeymcd(a)mymts.net> Subject: [Jukebox-list] AMI R-145 amplifier volume control modification To: jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com Message-ID: <1371623906.4407910.1724722872955.JavaMail.zimbra(a)mymts.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Does anyone have the schematic modification for the scratchy volume control issue on a AMi R-145 amplifier? Specifically an AMi F and G model. I used to have a copy but can't find it. Thanks. Joey McDonald

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AMI R-145 amplifier volume control modification
by joeymcd 26 Aug '24

26 Aug '24

Does anyone have the schematic modification for the scratchy volume control issue on a AMi R-145 amplifier? Specifically an AMi F and G model. I used to have a copy but can't find it. Thanks. Joey McDonald

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Re: Seeburg R Mech Lighting
by Jukebox Repairman 26 Aug '24

26 Aug '24

Jukebox Repairman 3:22 PM (0 minutes ago) to jrr so i added a dab of solder to the bulb body, inserted into the socket and it lit right up. Thanks for all input everyone. im smiling again On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 2:46 PM John Robertson <jrr(a)flippers.com> wrote: > On 2024-08-26 10:50 a.m., Jukebox Repairman wrote: > > Thanks John, I probably should have mentioned using my tester i have 6v on > center pin of socket when grounding to the outside of the socket > > OK, now with the bulb in the socket, use alligator jumper wires to the pin > that sticks out the rear and the shell mount and your meter. If Zero, then > the socket is corroded and needs replacing. If 6V and the light is out, > look at the lamp pin contact surface - I imagine it is corroded. A pencil > eraser make help here, or replace the socket... > > John :-#)# > > > > On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 1:41 PM John Robertson via Jukebox-list < > jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com> wrote: > >> On 2024-08-26 10:09 a.m., Jukebox Repairman via Jukebox-list wrote: >> > I Have an R I'm working on and typical only one side of the 100 end >> > cap lighting works. >> > The strange thing is I have 6V at the center pin of the socket. I've >> tried >> > 3 different bulbs thinking maybe the bulb wasn't making good >> connectivity >> > but no go. >> > >> > It seems like every R that I have restored has had this issue. Any >> thoughts >> > on a fix? >> > >> > It's the only thing holding me up on completion of the job >> > >> > Regards, >> > Rick >> > _____ >> >> If you have 6V on the center terminal of the lamp socket, perhaps the >> lamp socket shell is too loose to make a ground connection. Check using >> the shell and the centre terminal, then if Zero V check the center >> terminal and the shell's mounting arm... >> >> John :-#)# >> >> >> -- >> John's Jukes Ltd. >> 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 >> Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) >> flippers.com >> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out" >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com >> To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave(a)lists.netlojix.com >> %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s >> Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/ >> > > -- > John's Jukes Ltd. > 7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 > Call (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) > flippers.com > "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out" > >

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Seeburg R Mech Lighting
by Jukebox Repairman 26 Aug '24

26 Aug '24

I Have an R I'm working on and typical only one side of the 100 end cap lighting works. The strange thing is I have 6V at the center pin of the socket. I've tried 3 different bulbs thinking maybe the bulb wasn't making good connectivity but no go. It seems like every R that I have restored has had this issue. Any thoughts on a fix? It's the only thing holding me up on completion of the job Regards, Rick

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Seeburg 222 Write in Issue
by Jukebox Repairman 19 Aug '24

19 Aug '24

I'm troubleshooting this customer's 222. It will not trip to play after a selection is made. The TSR was recapped she thinks approx 5 years ago and the credit unit has been bypassed with a Vern Schmitt (Victory) Free Play adapter. 6X4 tests good as do OA2's which have a purple glow and pulse accordingly during scan. It will trip if I remove the RCA from the pulse amp and it will also play all selections loading the tormat VIA D Cell Battery. Currently stumped. Regards, Rick It

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AMI JKK 200
by Tony Miklos 18 Aug '24

18 Aug '24

Why does the model J 200 have 2 K's after the J? Model JKK 200. Is there a model that just says J? While I'm at it, does anyone know the size of the o-ring for the scan control? I know who has them for sale but I hate to pay 7.50 for a 1 dollar part. Although if I count my time, the $7.50 might be the bargain? Tony

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Rock-Ola CD amp 56180-1A
by Tony Miklos 16 Aug '24

16 Aug '24

Rock-Ola 56180-1A amp from an Antique Apparatus/Rock-Ola OMT type. This amp had a crackle/rumble on 1 channel with the volume down all the way. Traced it to a tantalum cap with leakage. After replacing it, I could then hear that the other channel had the same problem so I replaced it (I used electrolytic caps, which I didn't think will be a problem) I don't stock any tantalum caps. (yet) Then at the end of a song before it was muted, I heard a very slight crackle, much less but I heard it. While it was playing I pulled the CD inputs and when turning up the volume the noise was louder with the volume up. The amp is loaded with 1uF tantalum caps and I'm wondering if there was a bad batch and I should replace them all. Now I did a search and find that John Robertson here had changed the same two as me (C12,C13) and two more (C6,C7). John, if you recall, are C6 and C7 before the volume control? My AMR manual schematic is really poor and I can hardly read the part values, does anyone have a factory one and is it much better? Tony

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How to wire remote cancel button on DS-100
by bpoldstyle＠yahoo.com 15 Aug '24

15 Aug '24

I recently added a remote cancel button to my Seeburg 222 by wiring it to terminals 2 and 3 on the record cancel terminal strip on the tormat selector unit. Now my cousin has asked me to add the same type of remote cancel switch to his DS-100. Looking online I noticed that his record cancel terminal strip has four terminals (the 222 has only three terminals). I believe the extra terminal supplies DC to a motorized remote volume control if that is added on. All we want to do is add a remote cancel button. Which two terminals should we use for the cancel button hook-up? Thanks in advance, Bruce

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Rock-Ola CD8 bubbler shipping bolt size
by Tony Miklos 14 Aug '24

14 Aug '24

I have a customer who wants to bring it here but has no shipping bolts and I don't know the size offhand. (He hasn't even found the holes yet.) Can anyone help with that? Thanks, Tony

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Rock-Ola 56180-1A amp
by Tony Miklos 11 Aug '24

11 Aug '24

Rock-Ola 56180-1A amp from an Antique Apparatus/Rock-Ola OMT type. This amp had a crackle/rumble on 1 channel with the volume down all the way. Traced it to a tantalum cap with leakage. After replacing it, I could then hear that the other channel had the same problem so I replaced it (I used electrolytic caps, which I didn't think will be a problem) I don't stock any tantalum caps. (yet) Then at the end of a song before it was muted, I heard a very slight crackle, much less but I heard it. While it was playing I pulled the CD inputs and when turning up the volume the noise was louder with the volume up. The amp is loaded with 1uF tantalum caps and I'm wondering if there was a bad batch and I should replace them all. Now I did a search and find that John Robertson here had changed the same two as me (C12,C13) and two more (C6,C7). John, if you recall, are C6 and C7 before the volume control? My AMR manual schematic is really poor and I can hardly read the part values, does anyone have a factory one and is it much better? Tony

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Jukebox-list August 2024