Does anyone know offhand what the size of the roll pin for the gripper
assembly of a 60', 70's,80's .... model? Customer told me he lost his
when he tried to fix it. (this should be fun when I go there)
Hello all,
Just a quick question. Does anyone know or has anyone ever used a G-80
turntable motor on a E-80 mechanism. I have an E-80 and the belts just
cause it to be a shade slower than 45 rpms records to play slow. I wondered
if they would fit the same on the mechanism. I'm trying to get away from
the belts and go with a direct motor. Just wanted to ask...any thoughts? If
not, any thoughts on how to get the belts to not play a shade slower on the
turntable motor. As always, thanks for your help.
Jamie
I recently replaced the capacitor and resistors in the crossover of my
Continental and discovered that the next problem is that the horn tweeter
is broken.
So, what to replace it with? I read a lot of discussion in the archive and
indeed here that says that piezo horns are unsatisfactory.but are cheap.
I'm happy to pay for a compression type if I can find one. The problem
seems to me to be one of finding a horn that will slot into the space.
I could buy an off the shelf unit like a .Pyle-Pro PH391 but it is a lot
bigger and would mean that I would have to cut out a slot in the cabinet to
fit. I will carry on and see if I can find another of the existing size.
Alternatively, there are separate horn drivers available without the horn.
They all? have a 1 inch throat. I could make an adaptorthe existing horn by
an adaptor to take one of those.which would be preferable to cutting the
cab..
I could also try to find a circular tweeter to substitute and blank off the
rest of the slot. It would have to be a high sensitivity type.
Has anyone else tried to solve this problem? What, in detail, did you do?
Any advice will be gratefully received.
Doug
Hello,
My CD mechanism is not acting right on my CD8 Rockola Nostalgia Bubbler Jukebox...
First off, after viewing a few good Youtube videos of some 45 Rockola mechanisms and getting a good idea on how to take them apart, clean, and lubricate, I started to look at my mechanism on the CD8.
They look similar but the very first thing I noticed ( and started to worry about ) is that thegears on the CD8 'appear' to be made of a plastic (black). I played with the mechanism a bit and can determine that mine is definitely a bit 'gummy'. If I play the juke for a while, and it gets warm in there, it seems to operate just fine.
This Juke is set up to turn itself on after a power outage and the 'attract' mode is also set.After some storms here not long ago, we lost poser at the house, but I was not here when the power came back on. When I did get home and noticed the Juke was on, I looked and no CD was on the player. I opened the door and about 30-40 CDs fell out. The CD8 had apparently tried to play some random CD's, but when it tried to return them to the carousel, it could not hold on to them.
When, as I said earlier, I was examining the mechanism in action, I saw where, when readyto replace the CD in the carousel, the front part of the 'bow' would just barely grab the CD andkind of cause it to flip almost. Sometimes, the CD would stay on the CDPRO player and othertimes it would flip the CD off the player but never return it. Now, all that sounds (to me) like the mechanism needs cleaned and lubricated for sure BUT, as I got down to the same level with myeye as the CD player, I notice the the CD player was no longer 'touching" the "L" brackets that hold the CD pro player down.
The CD player was down about 3/8" (maybe 5-6mm) from the bracket. Then as I manually operated the CD lift mechanism, I could see that as the outer part of the bow tried to grab the edge of the CD, it was actually grabbing just at the bottom edge of the bow as the CD player was lower than it had been before. Has anyone ever seen this?
I carefully took off the springs from the feet of the CD player and stretched them a bit, bringing the CDplayer back up to the normal position which just below and barely touching the "L" brackets that hold the player down at the two opposite corners.
The mechanism, despite the fact that i still is a bit gummy and (IMHO) needs to be disassembled, cleanedand lubed, is now working fine. If picks up the CD from the player and places it back in the carousel.
I guess I have rambled on too much about the springs collapsing, but on to some seasoned advice from allof you. I still plan on taking out the pin and cleaning and lubing the mechanism.
I am seeking advice and warnings in doing so. Since the gears at the end are plastic, does this restrict the type of lubrication when re-assembling. It appears to me that the factory using a white grease instead of oil.I could be wrong on that but it looks like it white grease dried up to me.
Does this mechanism follow the same disassemble and reassemble as the older ones for a 45 with all metal gears, albeit it a pot metal type of metallic gear?
On a few videos I have seen, they suggest to place some oil and it penetrate the mechanism and that that processwill sometimes save the hassle of disassembly. I sure do not want to do that as I afraid what the oil may drip upon.Also, I like the visible mechanism on this juke and would not want to see it all oily.
I apologize for the extra length, but want to give sufficient info for the helpers!
I thank you all in advance,Ron Parker
Hello,, does anyone else have problems closing the lid on a Seeburg ss-160 Jukebox? The lid rubs against the title board frame and must be forced to close. Any solutions? thank you.
I am working on a 1448 Rock-Ola, in the control box there is a resistor that has deteriorated beyond recognition. The schematic shows no resistor in the control box. Was it an addon? is it needed? If needed what is the value? Thank you.
Does anyone have a really good high quality scan of a WSF-5L6? I'd love
it if someone could email it to me. My AMR manual schematic is pretty
crappy.
Another question, If I find an original service manual will the
schematics be much more clear than the AMR ones? (I guess I'm also
asking for a scan of an original)
Or... Is there a certain model where the AMR manual schematics are
better than others? I'll buy another manual or two if I could read the
schematics! I think all I have is a C and a G.
Hello again!
The reset solenoid 1 (or solenoid 2, must check which one, it's the one
about even numbered records) in my Microtecnica Conti2, just stopped
working, it doesn't matter which odd numbered selection I do.
Everything else it's working fine, and if I reset the pin by hand for
that selection, it's all ok. I don't see the reset coil even trying to
reset the pins, but the plunger moves freely, if I push it by hand.
So, I'd like to find a way to check it without dismounting everything,
just to be sure it's a coil fault and not something else.
First of all, at which voltage it's that coil operated? I suppose 110v ?
Where does the impulse for the coil starts from? There's a place where I
could check with a tester if everything else it's ok, just to be sure
it's not a problem with some old cable, or a microswitch?
Also, as far as you may know, there's any video around about how to
access that solenoid...?
Thanks!
--
Federico Croci
wiz(a)tilt.it
www.tilt.it
Can you achieve the same results by using the 2 pin to 4 pin tone arm adapter with the newer cartridge?
Is there a reason not to do it this way?
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