Hello,
I own a working seeburg 100R. I have always used it as it is (I seldom
use it) but now I'm trying to fix all the things that are not really
well tuned.
One thing is that playing side A of a disc the mech-motor is really
quite, while playing side B from the motor-gears "area" there is much
more noise.
I tried to understand where the noise exactly comes from but it is quite
impossible to understand.
As you will see the noise is generated only after a disc of side B is
put into play position.
I uploaded a video, maybe gives some clues to experienced people like
you in order to bring me some goos suggestions!
Here the video link:
https://youtube.com/shorts/hZVCpzK66gs?feature=share
Thanks in advance
Lore
It was suggested I test DC voltages to both C514 & 515 as well as pull the 6X4 and test the AC coming in. 80VDC on C514. 69VDC on C515. C514 was heating up with these tests so I switched off the machine as soon as I could read the voltage. With the 6X4 pulled I next tested 313VAC coming from the transformer to pin 7 of the 6X4 socket but then something unexpected happened: C514 blew. There should have been no voltage reaching either cap with the tube pulled. This suggests a short somewhere but I can't visually see any short. How else would voltage reach the caps? I'm replacing both caps & getting a new 6X4 next week but I don't see this solving the problem if the cap blows with the tube out. Any ideas or suggestions welcomed.
jerold k
This is a follow up to my previous posting about issues with my Seeburg TSU5. I've isolated the problem to C514 over heating but so far have not determined the cause. I replaced C514 & C515 and R518 that bridges their negative ends. (I tested the caps to be sure they weren't shorted & the resistor's value is good.) C514 is connected to the -400V side of the 6X4 rectifier tube. I know this is a positive ground system so I was careful to replace the caps in their proper configuration, with both pos ends soldered to ground. I've switched out the 6X4 with 3 working replacements (all from working guitar amps) but C514 continues to overheat. (I shut down the system after a few seconds but in that time C514 is warm to hot.) I can test the voltage reaching this cap if that info will help in a diagnosis. Any insight into why this cap is overheating so quickly would be appreciated. Thanks!
jerold k
I would appreciate any help with this. I’m not that familiar with
Wurlitzers mostly work on Seeburg I have a customer that’s and older
gentleman that said the needle broke and he replaced it on his Wurlitzer
3300. Since then it has low volume. I stopped by to take a look and he had
several new needles. So I replaced it still low volume. Should I replace
the cart at this point? The needles are the correct ones. He said it has
been working fine for the past 20 years
Thanks Don
Mills Constellation Amp
I have this amp taking up shelf space. Anyone have a need/want?
Email me or post here with what you think it's worth/what you will
pay/or who might want to buy it.
I've never attempted to power it up. I've never touched a
Constellation. It came with some other parts I bought some time ago.
Well this is new for me, although I’m getting pretty good at selecting replacement output transformers, input transformers are out of my comfort zone.
I need help in selecting an input transformer for this amp and was hoping Jay or another kind member could suggest one that would be a good fit.
I prefer Hammond brand as they are easy to get here in Canada but am open to other suggestions.
Here is the page I found but prefer a recommendation.
https://www.hammfg.com/electronics/transformers/audio/124
Thanks,
Mauro
Sent from my garage.
Wanted to thank Jim Dirksen and Norm McCrae for their help with this issue.
Can’t believe I overlooked this previous ( I do wear glasses) but someone
had added a jumper wire between a leaf and snap switch.
I’m guessing this was a way to create free play option?
When I received this ES and WSR I found the take off ramp on the CCU bent
out of the way so I assumed that was the crude free play setup.
If the ramp was bent out of the way what would be the need for the jumper
on the switches??
Anyway we’re back in business
Regards
Rick
My Seeburg 160 with a TSU 5 started doing the dreaded two scans/no record pick ups after working flawlessly for over a decade. Here’s what I noticed: both OA2 tubes were unlit. There was a blow electrolytic cap (10MF/450V) nearby (blown in the sense that the positive end is bulging with some white crud deposits). It looks like it’s C512. All the other caps visually look fine. Someone did a cap job on the unit before I acquired it 25 years ago.
I happened to have a similar electrolytic cap with the same specs so I replaced it to see if the OA2s would relit. I also replaced the 6X4 with one from a working guitar amp in case that was the issue. The new cap & the fuse blew in less than a minute. (Note that I had run the unit with the original bulging cap for a lot longer earlier while trying to figure out what was wrong and the fuse didn’t blow. The new cap is shorted/The original cap is not shorted.)
Any suggestions on where to start on this issue? I could replace the cap and fuse and try again but that seems like risking more damage. Start testing all the nearby resistors? Put the original cap back in and see if a new fuse wouldn't blow so I could start testing voltages? (Note: The OA2s and 6X4 have never been changed.) Replace all the electrolytics?
Any help trouble shooting will be greatly appreciated.
jerold k
Von: "Jamie McElroy via Jukebox-list" <jukebox-list(a)lists.netlojix.com>
> I wonder if anyone can help me understand on occasion my AMI G-80 select
> buttons will not respond. I can turn the jukebox off and back on and the
> select buttons will function again...or only the left or right select
> buttons will work that coincide with that specific side of buttons
> associated with the left or right pin bank.
When the selection levers don't move, is the "Select" light on? Do
you hear the knocker strike when the lever doesn't move, or only
when it does move?
