Dear People, I hope someone can provide a little guidance for repairing or replacing the crossover for my Continental 1. For reasons too complicated to list I bought the unit for renovation from a dealer in Coventry and started the renovation but it then had to stand for about 20years. I have only now continued the renovation. I decided to look at the crossover and I find that there is a replacement bass driver and a horn tweeter that is not connected (to the crossover or anything else). Please note that it is not a piezo tweeter. Thecrossover is also not connected to anything and appears to be the original. It has a coil, value unknown, a very old electrolytic .cap - 3.0 mFd 50V one 27 ohm 10% resistor and one 22 ohm 10% resistor. Can anyone please suggest how suitable this might be? I plan to replace the resistors and cap once it is know what should be there or alternatively what I should replace it with. Best Regards, Doug
Hi Doug, Go with your suggestion, it will be fine. I've had a C1 for 30 or so years and sorted the crossover out with those values years ago. Regarding the coil. Some had this, and some didn't. We experimented years ago. If I remember correctly, Norman Macraes (a member on here) didn't have a coil and mine did..tbh having the coil there or not didn't make a great deal of difference..just replace the cap and resistor.. Regards Nigel
On 1 May 2023 at 12:19, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote:
Dear People,
I hope someone can provide a little guidance for repairing or replacing the crossover for my Continental 1.
For reasons too complicated to list I bought the unit for renovation from a dealer in Coventry and started the renovation but it then had to stand for about 20years. I have only now continued the renovation.
I decided to look at the crossover and I find that there is a replacement bass driver and a horn tweeter that is not connected (to the crossover or anything else). Please note that it is not a piezo tweeter. Thecrossover is also not connected to anything and appears to be the original. It has a coil, value unknown, a very old electrolytic .cap - 3.0 mFd 50V one 27 ohm 10% resistor and one 22 ohm 10% resistor.
Can anyone please suggest how suitable this might be? I plan to replace the resistors and cap once it is know what should be there or alternatively what I should replace it with.
Best Regards,
Doug _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
Doug, Nigel, It was the "K" that didn't have the inductor, same cartridge, amp and speakers but slight variation in the crossover. In my Continental, I have put a switch across the inductor, which I can access through the coin box door, so that I can experiment switching it in or out depending on which phono cartridge I use. The inductor just cuts the higher frequencies to the 12" speaker. Norman. ------ Original Message ------ From: "Nigel Pugh via Jukebox-list" <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> To: "Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list" <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> Cc: "Doug Duncan" <dougdee123@gmail.com>; "Nigel Pugh" <pughn@npsyssoft.force9.co.uk> Sent: Monday, 1 May, 23 At 20:33 Subject: [Jukebox-list] Re: Crossover for a Continental 1 Hi Doug, Go with your suggestion, it will be fine. I've had a C1 for 30 or so years and sorted the crossover out with those values years ago. Regarding the coil. Some had this, and some didn't. We experimented years ago. If I remember correctly, Norman Macraes (a member on here) didn't have a coil and mine did..tbh having the coil there or not didn't make a great deal of difference..just replace the cap and resistor.. Regards Nigel On 1 May 2023 at 12:19, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote: Dear People, I hope someone can provide a little guidance for repairing or replacing the crossover for my Continental 1. For reasons too complicated to list I bought the unit for renovation from a dealer in Coventry and started the renovation but it then had to stand for about 20years. I have only now continued the renovation. I decided to look at the crossover and I find that there is a replacement bass driver and a horn tweeter that is not connected (to the crossover or anything else). Please note that it is not a piezo tweeter. Thecrossover is also not connected to anything and appears to be the original. It has a coil, value unknown, a very old electrolytic .cap - 3.0 mFd 50V one 27 ohm 10% resistor and one 22 ohm 10% resistor. Can anyone please suggest how suitable this might be? I plan to replace the resistors and cap once it is know what should be there or alternatively what I should replace it with. Best Regards, Doug _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/ <http://jukebox.markmail.org/> _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/ <http://jukebox.markmail.org/>
I have ordered the components and as soon as I can I'll have a test and go from there. Doug On Mon, 1 May 2023 at 20:33, Nigel Pugh <pughn@npsyssoft.force9.co.uk> wrote:
Hi Doug, Go with your suggestion, it will be fine. I've had a C1 for 30 or so years and sorted the crossover out with those values years ago. Regarding the coil. Some had this, and some didn't. We experimented years ago. If I remember correctly, Norman Macraes (a member on here) didn't have a coil and mine did..tbh having the coil there or not didn't make a great deal of difference..just replace the cap and resistor.. Regards Nigel
On 1 May 2023 at 12:19, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list < jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote:
Dear People,
I hope someone can provide a little guidance for repairing or replacing the crossover for my Continental 1.
For reasons too complicated to list I bought the unit for renovation from a dealer in Coventry and started the renovation but it then had to stand for about 20years. I have only now continued the renovation.
I decided to look at the crossover and I find that there is a replacement bass driver and a horn tweeter that is not connected (to the crossover or anything else). Please note that it is not a piezo tweeter. Thecrossover is also not connected to anything and appears to be the original. It has a coil, value unknown, a very old electrolytic .cap - 3.0 mFd 50V one 27 ohm 10% resistor and one 22 ohm 10% resistor.
Can anyone please suggest how suitable this might be? I plan to replace the resistors and cap once it is know what should be there or alternatively what I should replace it with.
Best Regards,
Doug _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
Anyone try the tweeter add on for Seeburgs B, C, ... that Victory Glass sells? You have to remove the speaker, put in in place across two mounting screws, then re install the original speaker. And wire it up of course. On 5/3/2023 3:51 AM, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list wrote:
I have ordered the components and as soon as I can I'll have a test and go from there.
Doug
On Mon, 1 May 2023 at 20:33, Nigel Pugh <pughn@npsyssoft.force9.co.uk> wrote:
Hi Doug, Go with your suggestion, it will be fine. I've had a C1 for 30 or so years and sorted the crossover out with those values years ago. Regarding the coil. Some had this, and some didn't. We experimented years ago. If I remember correctly, Norman Macraes (a member on here) didn't have a coil and mine did..tbh having the coil there or not didn't make a great deal of difference..just replace the cap and resistor.. Regards Nigel
On 1 May 2023 at 12:19, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list < jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote:
Dear People,
I hope someone can provide a little guidance for repairing or replacing the crossover for my Continental 1.
For reasons too complicated to list I bought the unit for renovation from a dealer in Coventry and started the renovation but it then had to stand for about 20years. I have only now continued the renovation.
I decided to look at the crossover and I find that there is a replacement bass driver and a horn tweeter that is not connected (to the crossover or anything else). Please note that it is not a piezo tweeter. Thecrossover is also not connected to anything and appears to be the original. It has a coil, value unknown, a very old electrolytic .cap - 3.0 mFd 50V one 27 ohm 10% resistor and one 22 ohm 10% resistor.
Can anyone please suggest how suitable this might be? I plan to replace the resistors and cap once it is know what should be there or alternatively what I should replace it with.
Best Regards,
Doug _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
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If it mounts across two of the speaker mounting holes, the concern I’d have would be that it not distort the speaker frame. The metal will have to be very thin and even so….. You also have to run the wire out. When I mounted a 2” horn in a M100G I made a metal bracket that was supported by the crossbraces in front of the speaker. I cut a notch in the baffle board to pass the speaker wire. Did similar with my first V. There the same tweeter had to be right up against the grill in order to keep the magnet clear of the woofer cone. On later models with the fiberglass enclosure for the 8” I just cut a 2” hold in the front board. RobNYC On Wednesday, May 3, 2023, 06:03:20 AM GMT-5, Tony Miklos via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote: Anyone try the tweeter add on for Seeburgs B, C, ... that Victory Glass sells? You have to remove the speaker, put in in place across two mounting screws, then re install the original speaker. And wire it up of course. On 5/3/2023 3:51 AM, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list wrote:
I have ordered the components and as soon as I can I'll have a test and go from there.
Doug
On Mon, 1 May 2023 at 20:33, Nigel Pugh <pughn@npsyssoft.force9.co.uk> wrote:
Hi Doug, Go with your suggestion, it will be fine. I've had a C1 for 30 or so years and sorted the crossover out with those values years ago. Regarding the coil. Some had this, and some didn't. We experimented years ago. If I remember correctly, Norman Macraes (a member on here) didn't have a coil and mine did..tbh having the coil there or not didn't make a great deal of difference..just replace the cap and resistor.. Regards Nigel
On 1 May 2023 at 12:19, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list < jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote:
Dear People,
I hope someone can provide a little guidance for repairing or replacing the crossover for my Continental 1.
For reasons too complicated to list I bought the unit for renovation from a dealer in Coventry and started the renovation but it then had to stand for about 20years. I have only now continued the renovation.
I decided to look at the crossover and I find that there is a replacement bass driver and a horn tweeter that is not connected (to the crossover or anything else). Please note that it is not a piezo tweeter. Thecrossover is also not connected to anything and appears to be the original. It has a coil, value unknown, a very old electrolytic .cap - 3.0 mFd 50V one 27 ohm 10% resistor and one 22 ohm 10% resistor.
Can anyone please suggest how suitable this might be? I plan to replace the resistors and cap once it is know what should be there or alternatively what I should replace it with.
Best Regards,
Doug _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
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Since you say the original speaker has been replaced, if you happen to have a problem with it not sounding so great, it could be due to the replacement speaker possibly being a woofer. I believe it should be a "full range" speaker? Many times people replace the large speaker with a woofer, just because it's big, they instantly think Woofer. Tony On 5/1/2023 7:18 AM, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list wrote:
Dear People,
I hope someone can provide a little guidance for repairing or replacing the crossover for my Continental 1.
For reasons too complicated to list I bought the unit for renovation from a dealer in Coventry and started the renovation but it then had to stand for about 20years. I have only now continued the renovation.
I decided to look at the crossover and I find that there is a replacement bass driver and a horn tweeter that is not connected (to the crossover or anything else). Please note that it is not a piezo tweeter. Thecrossover is also not connected to anything and appears to be the original. It has a coil, value unknown, a very old electrolytic .cap - 3.0 mFd 50V one 27 ohm 10% resistor and one 22 ohm 10% resistor.
Can anyone please suggest how suitable this might be? I plan to replace the resistors and cap once it is know what should be there or alternatively what I should replace it with.
Best Regards,
Doug _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
As you say. I'll replace the components and see what it sounds like. If I need to I can change it from there. Doug On Mon, 1 May 2023, 23:30 Tony Miklos via Jukebox-list, < jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote:
Since you say the original speaker has been replaced, if you happen to have a problem with it not sounding so great, it could be due to the replacement speaker possibly being a woofer. I believe it should be a "full range" speaker? Many times people replace the large speaker with a woofer, just because it's big, they instantly think Woofer.
Tony
On 5/1/2023 7:18 AM, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list wrote:
Dear People,
I hope someone can provide a little guidance for repairing or replacing the crossover for my Continental 1.
For reasons too complicated to list I bought the unit for renovation from a dealer in Coventry and started the renovation but it then had to stand for about 20years. I have only now continued the renovation.
I decided to look at the crossover and I find that there is a replacement bass driver and a horn tweeter that is not connected (to the crossover or anything else). Please note that it is not a piezo tweeter. Thecrossover is also not connected to anything and appears to be the original. It has a coil, value unknown, a very old electrolytic .cap - 3.0 mFd 50V one 27 ohm 10% resistor and one 22 ohm 10% resistor.
Can anyone please suggest how suitable this might be? I plan to replace the resistors and cap once it is know what should be there or alternatively what I should replace it with.
Best Regards,
Doug _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
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The resistors are probably OK. They are just to pad down the tweeter…can’t have too much highs, can we :-) The original woofer was a typical 16 ohm full range made by either Jensen or Utah. It varied. There was another supplier, whose name I can’t remember. Given the size of the enclosure and amp, I’d say that any of the 12” full range 16 ohm speakers used in jukeboxes back then will be suitable, Certainly, any from the H through O series. The tweeter is another matter. Those were always (IME) Jensen and not all that efficient. I added a 2” high output horn to my H & I I was able to add it just above the existing horn due to the setback of the 12” in those machines. In Continental 1 I replaced the original which was nearly dead with the same 2” horn and just made a filler plate out of Plexiglas to mount it and cover the extra area the original horn left. If you are going to replace the obsolete G.E. cart a tweeter upgrade is a good addition. RobNYC On Monday, May 1, 2023, 06:18:49 AM GMT-5, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote: Dear People, I hope someone can provide a little guidance for repairing or replacing the crossover for my Continental 1. For reasons too complicated to list I bought the unit for renovation from a dealer in Coventry and started the renovation but it then had to stand for about 20years. I have only now continued the renovation. I decided to look at the crossover and I find that there is a replacement bass driver and a horn tweeter that is not connected (to the crossover or anything else). Please note that it is not a piezo tweeter. Thecrossover is also not connected to anything and appears to be the original. It has a coil, value unknown, a very old electrolytic .cap - 3.0 mFd 50V one 27 ohm 10% resistor and one 22 ohm 10% resistor. Can anyone please suggest how suitable this might be? I plan to replace the resistors and cap once it is know what should be there or alternatively what I should replace it with. Best Regards, Doug _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
Hi Rob, CTC I think was the other speaker manufacturer that was in the Amis of that era. Ive tried all of those in my own personal Continental and Tropicana and all give a good sound and pretty much an identical sound. They seem readily available on eBay or you can get an Italian made Jensen one of the identical original spec. Rob, the replacement tweeter you mentioned, is it a direct piezo one or standard horn via the crossover? Or, to the original poster, see what it sounds like and take it from there. It might sound great first time. Nigel, uk
On 2 May 2023 at 15:23, Chan Gade via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote:
The resistors are probably OK. They are just to pad down the tweeter…can’t have too much highs, can we :-)
The original woofer was a typical 16 ohm full range made by either Jensen or Utah. It varied. There was another supplier, whose name I can’t remember.
Given the size of the enclosure and amp, I’d say that any of the 12” full range 16 ohm speakers used in jukeboxes back then will be suitable, Certainly, any from the H through O series.
The tweeter is another matter. Those were always (IME) Jensen and not all that efficient. I added a 2” high output horn to my H & I I was able to add it just above the existing horn due to the setback of the 12” in those machines. In Continental 1 I replaced the original which was nearly dead with the same 2” horn and just made a filler plate out of Plexiglas to mount it and cover the extra area the original horn left. If you are going to replace the obsolete G.E. cart a tweeter upgrade is a good addition.
RobNYC On Monday, May 1, 2023, 06:18:49 AM GMT-5, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote:
Dear People,
I hope someone can provide a little guidance for repairing or replacing the crossover for my Continental 1.
For reasons too complicated to list I bought the unit for renovation from a dealer in Coventry and started the renovation but it then had to stand for about 20years. I have only now continued the renovation.
I decided to look at the crossover and I find that there is a replacement bass driver and a horn tweeter that is not connected (to the crossover or anything else). Please note that it is not a piezo tweeter. Thecrossover is also not connected to anything and appears to be the original. It has a coil, value unknown, a very old electrolytic .cap - 3.0 mFd 50V one 27 ohm 10% resistor and one 22 ohm 10% resistor.
Can anyone please suggest how suitable this might be? I plan to replace the resistors and cap once it is know what should be there or alternatively what I should replace it with.
Best Regards,
Doug _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
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Nigel, I’ve never used piezo tweeters in the machines. The one I used in the 1980s & 90s was a Radio Shack 40-1278B. These are long NLA. I had been suggesting two later Pyle high efficiency 2” and gotten good responses from those who used them in the machines. These had even higher claimed efficiency vs. the R.S. (101db vs. 98). Given most are 8 ohm an 8 ohm 10 watt non-inductive resistor in series is recommended for 16 ohm systems. Most of the 12” speaker back then (in 1950s American versions) had a free air resonance around 72-78 Hz. The 12’ in LPC were higher at around 94Hz. I have two of these in a 201 with audibly same results as the originals. They aren’t that critical since these are not tuned & damped enclosures. More important are tweeters and crossovers. Regards, Rob On Tuesday, May 2, 2023, 10:33:28 AM GMT-5, Nigel Pugh <pughn@npsyssoft.force9.co.uk> wrote: Hi Rob,CTC I think was the other speaker manufacturer that was in the Amis of that era. Ive tried all of those in my own personal Continental and Tropicana and all give a good sound and pretty much an identical sound. They seem readily available on eBay or you can get an Italian made Jensen one of the identical original spec. Rob, the replacement tweeter you mentioned, is it a direct piezo one or standard horn via the crossover? Or, to the original poster, see what it sounds like and take it from there. It might sound great first time. Nigel, uk On 2 May 2023 at 15:23, Chan Gade via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote: The resistors are probably OK. They are just to pad down the tweeter…can’t have too much highs, can we :-) The original woofer was a typical 16 ohm full range made by either Jensen or Utah. It varied. There was another supplier, whose name I can’t remember. Given the size of the enclosure and amp, I’d say that any of the 12” full range 16 ohm speakers used in jukeboxes back then will be suitable, Certainly, any from the H through O series. The tweeter is another matter. Those were always (IME) Jensen and not all that efficient. I added a 2” high output horn to my H & I I was able to add it just above the existing horn due to the setback of the 12” in those machines. In Continental 1 I replaced the original which was nearly dead with the same 2” horn and just made a filler plate out of Plexiglas to mount it and cover the extra area the original horn left. If you are going to replace the obsolete G.E. cart a tweeter upgrade is a good addition. RobNYC On Monday, May 1, 2023, 06:18:49 AM GMT-5, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote: Dear People, I hope someone can provide a little guidance for repairing or replacing the crossover for my Continental 1. For reasons too complicated to list I bought the unit for renovation from a dealer in Coventry and started the renovation but it then had to stand for about 20years. I have only now continued the renovation. I decided to look at the crossover and I find that there is a replacement bass driver and a horn tweeter that is not connected (to the crossover or anything else). Please note that it is not a piezo tweeter. Thecrossover is also not connected to anything and appears to be the original. It has a coil, value unknown, a very old electrolytic .cap - 3.0 mFd 50V one 27 ohm 10% resistor and one 22 ohm 10% resistor. Can anyone please suggest how suitable this might be? I plan to replace the resistors and cap once it is know what should be there or alternatively what I should replace it with. Best Regards, Doug _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/ _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
Thanks Rob, I am glad you said that about the piezo. I experimented a lot 30 or so years ago and just could not get a sound that I found was acceptable and easy on the ears, in any jukebox I tried. They were seen as a cheap alternative to broken or missing horns but gave me a headache so I jacked them in and that opinion has always stayed with me. Nigel
On 3 May 2023 at 02:22, Chan Gade via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote:
Nigel, I’ve never used piezo tweeters in the machines.
The one I used in the 1980s & 90s was a Radio Shack 40-1278B. These are long NLA.
I had been suggesting two later Pyle high efficiency 2” and gotten good responses from those who used them in the machines. These had even higher claimed efficiency vs. the R.S. (101db vs. 98).
Given most are 8 ohm an 8 ohm 10 watt non-inductive resistor in series is recommended for 16 ohm systems. Most of the 12” speaker back then (in 1950s American versions) had a free air resonance around 72-78 Hz. The 12’ in LPC were higher at around 94Hz. I have two of these in a 201 with audibly same results as the originals. They aren’t that critical since these are not tuned & damped enclosures. More important are tweeters and crossovers
Regards, Rob
On Tuesday, May 2, 2023, 10:33:28 AM GMT-5, Nigel Pugh <pughn@npsyssoft.force9.co.uk> wrote:
Hi Rob,CTC I think was the other speaker manufacturer that was in the Amis of that era. Ive tried all of those in my own personal Continental and Tropicana and all give a good sound and pretty much an identical sound. They seem readily available on eBay or you can get an Italian made Jensen one of the identical original spec. Rob, the replacement tweeter you mentioned, is it a direct piezo one or standard horn via the crossover? Or, to the original poster, see what it sounds like and take it from there. It might sound great first time. Nigel, uk
On 2 May 2023 at 15:23, Chan Gade via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote:
The resistors are probably OK. They are just to pad down the tweeter…can’t have too much highs, can we :-)
The original woofer was a typical 16 ohm full range made by either Jensen or Utah. It varied. There was another supplier, whose name I can’t remember.
Given the size of the enclosure and amp, I’d say that any of the 12” full range 16 ohm speakers used in jukeboxes back then will be suitable, Certainly, any from the H through O series.
The tweeter is another matter. Those were always (IME) Jensen and not all that efficient. I added a 2” high output horn to my H & I I was able to add it just above the existing horn due to the setback of the 12” in those machines. In Continental 1 I replaced the original which was nearly dead with the same 2” horn and just made a filler plate out of Plexiglas to mount it and cover the extra area the original horn left. If you are going to replace the obsolete G.E. cart a tweeter upgrade is a good addition.
RobNYC On Monday, May 1, 2023, 06:18:49 AM GMT-5, Doug Duncan via Jukebox-list <jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com> wrote:
Dear People,
I hope someone can provide a little guidance for repairing or replacing the crossover for my Continental 1.
For reasons too complicated to list I bought the unit for renovation from a dealer in Coventry and started the renovation but it then had to stand for about 20years. I have only now continued the renovation.
I decided to look at the crossover and I find that there is a replacement bass driver and a horn tweeter that is not connected (to the crossover or anything else). Please note that it is not a piezo tweeter. Thecrossover is also not connected to anything and appears to be the original. It has a coil, value unknown, a very old electrolytic .cap - 3.0 mFd 50V one 27 ohm 10% resistor and one 22 ohm 10% resistor.
Can anyone please suggest how suitable this might be? I plan to replace the resistors and cap once it is know what should be there or alternatively what I should replace it with.
Best Regards,
Doug _______________________________________________ Jukebox-list mailing list -- jukebox-list@lists.netlojix.com To unsubscribe send an email to jukebox-list-leave@lists.netlojix.com %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s Searchable Archives: http://jukebox.markmail.org/
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participants (5)
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Chan Gade -
Doug Duncan -
Nigel Pugh -
NORMAN MACRAE -
Tony Miklos