[Jukebox-list] a question, a comment, & a tip.

Brierley, Adrian adrian.brierley at siemens.co.uk
Mon Apr 2 05:01:42 PDT 2001


With reference to the comment:

70's machines are being restored, in my hose at least! Granted it's not a
commercial operation, but I like the look and sound of them so that's what I
buy and restore. I think they will become much more sought after in "a few"
years time, once the earlier machines price themselves out of the market and
the kind of machine that people remember from their youth becomes a 70's
one.

I generally I agree with the comments on possible classics, but would
substitute the green/ blue W3700 in place of purple W3800, not because the
colour is any less interesting, but the because there is less chrome on the
3800 and it looks more "plasticy". Currently I have two 3700's and two
Entertainers. I'm just starting work on the Entertainers, the 3700's are
just about finished. One of them is the "family" juke, it gets between 1,000
and 1,500 plays a year and is now in it's third year since restoration and
has never needed anything more than stylus replacements.

In the meantime please don't anyone "dump" any of these machines! They are
worth hanging on to and will be valuable one day.

Regards,


Adrian  (UK) 

-----Original Message-----
From: BSA King [mailto:bsaking at hotmail.com]
Sent: 01 April 2001 19:38
To: jukebox-list at west.net
Subject: [Jukebox-list] a question, a comment, & a tip.


The q:

The culprit is my Seeburg FireStar. A select problem - was working. Now when

I press the keys, it does not start to scan and pickup. If I click the mech 
switch, it will go & work fine.

Dr. J suggested  check the scan board. There's a SCR (Silicon Controlled 
Rectifier), similar to a triac, that pulses the scan control solenoid. The 
solenoid can also be pulsed with the switch I mentioned.

Thing I now noticed today is that it selects perfectly if I push the buttons

while it is either playing or scanning, but not from a stop position. That's

what threw me at first - thought it was fixed, then it wasn't. There is a 
pattern to it.

On the basis of the pattern I noticed, could it be something easier like a 
switch or contact I have missed?

The comment:

- while plunking around with the FireStar/STD-2, I realized that it gets 
used a lot. Someone once asked me which I listen to most, between it and the

original Seeburg R(bandshell as well), or others around the house for that 
matter. Not sure if it is number one or not, but that FireStar gets used a 
lot more than say the ST-4, which is roughly same vintage (little newer), 
but pretty close in sound. Probably the overall loook adds to the appeal.

It dawned on me that the 70's - 80 vintage , may have some 'collectibles' at

some point in time for future generations. The FireStar/STD-2, and a 
(believe it or not) Rockola 464 ( - it is sooooo tacky that it is cool) get 
my vote of the ones I actually have here.  I hope they do get worth more - I

hate to see ANY juke relegated to the dumpster. The value is an incentive to

people to hang onto them or get them fixed before they are irretrievably 
gone.

I'm not talking about the FireStar over the Seeburg R or other 50's, or 
versus a Tempo II from the 60's. The market value already pretty well 
reflects the overall trend. However, I find 70-80's boxes are almost all the

same price (so far).

Wonder which ones other people think of 70's, 80's would be candidates for a

future 'collectible' list? Maybe an Americana and a Disco or Entertainer as 
well? There are lots of them I have not ever seen yet.

The (well, potential) tip:

While starting with basics, I took the keypad out of the FireStar and 
noticed the contacts on the board were not in the best of shape. Sort of 
surprised that the copper traces appeared of different thickness, scratched,

etc.  I had tried cleaning them, but they still had that flakey feel in 
terms of contact. What I did was recoat them all in solder to thicken up the

edges a bit.

I clamped the pieces so I had a 'third hand', then coated the traces with 
solder. Nice & clean and even & not too much heat - don't want to lift 
thoses traces off the board. Then I used solder wick about the same size as 
each trace. Heated up the braid on the pad connector until solder flowed 
into the braid, and slowly pulled the braid towards me (towards the insert 
edge of the trace). This left a really smooth solder built up trace which I 
then polished and cleaned.

Now that board has a real nice factory snug feel to it, instead of being a 
sloppy fit. My problems still exist (see q: above), but at least I am now 
pretty sure it is not that part causing it.

Anyhow, fwiw an amateur idea. As good as a new board? - not a chance - 
better than it was, seems to be!

/end/ - whew!
Cheers, Bruce in Canada
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